Here are a collection of various studies and reports on rope use that are of potential interest to activist climbers. Of special note you can get the first edition of the Earth First! Direct Action Manual Here.
Knot and cord strength: answers to common questions – By Todd Vogel (address some of the most common questions asked regards to EF! style climbing. A must read.)
How to Calculate the Mechanical Advantage of hauling systems – By Tim Fox & Mick Holton (This is probably the best article up here for understanding haul systems.)
Pulleys and the 3:1 pulley system – By Cyril Shokoples
Understanding Mechanical Advantage in the Single Sheave Pulley Systems Used in Rescue Operations – By Ralphie G. Schwartz, Esq.
Calculating Forces in the Pulley Mechanical Advantage Systems Used in Rescue Work – By Ralphie G. Schwartz, Esq.
calculating-forces-in-pulley-mechanical-advantage-systems-ma
Fall Factors: Do They Apply to Rope Rescue and Rope Access? – By Jim Kovach
Critical Angle Safety Factors – By Bruce Smith
SmithBruce2008_ITRSPaper_CriticalAngle
Empirically Derived Breaking Strengths for Basket Hitches and Wrap Three Pull Two Webbing Anchors – By Thomas Evansa and Aaron Stavensb
The Mechanics of Friction in Rope Rescue – By Stephen W. Attaway, Ph.D.
Comparative Testing of High Strength Cord – By Tom Moyer, Paul Tusting, Chris Harmston
Nylon and Polyester Prusik Testing – By Brandon Kharns
How to Determine Tree Strength and Build Tree Anchors – By Rick Weber
Rope Rescue Power Point from WPAFB FD
East County Fire & Rescue Rope Rescue Manual