In the isolated Gaza Strip the food culture is spicy and its population find great pleasure in kebab with chilli and liver. Forget about the riots, it can be peacefull in downtown Gaza City. Follow Culinary Traveller Anders Holst Markussen as he visit Gaza. Summer the 2011. Text by Anders Holst Markussen: Blog: www.nordickitchen.wordpress.com About the trip to Gaza: June 2011 for three days: I was excited to see the area that everyone had warned me about going into - "kidnapping", "assault". But after crossing Erez checkpoint I met only friendly people. An acquaintances was funny enough at home and visit his family in Gaza simultaneously, so here I found my guide and fixer. The Gaza Strip has its outset 70 kilometres south of Tel Aviv close to the Sinai Peninsula and the Suez. It's 1.6 million people live enclosed on 360 square kilometres, a size smaller than the Isle of Wight. The siege has been ongoing for years. How does food culture and indulgence thrive in an area of deprivation such as Gaza? Called the world's largest prison. Today, about half of the Gaza Strip area is used for agriculture, hardly enough to feed the population. Once a fertile environment, today it lacks water. The first new fields I see are 25 kilometres south of the City. Here a little outside Khan Younis, the second largest city of the Gaza Strip, a million olive trees grow alongside numerous date palm trees. The representatives from the ministry tells me that these were planted only two years ago on pieces of land on which 7-8000 Israeli settlers lived since 1967. The last settlers left Gaza in 2005 and left behind large pieces of land equalling around 30% of the Gaza Strip with fruit trees, apples and mango. At their departure the settlers annihilated all of their factories and houses. The Palestinians quickly reserved these areas for food production but were badly scared because the new land or as it is called Al Muharat "the free country" was without water. As one of the representatives from the ministry tells me "The groundwater was led out of Gaza and into Israel as drinking water causing the natural level to drop. That is why draught today is an unsolvable problem". Compost They believe in their agricultural projects: An example is the compost made from plant, sewer and animal disposal. I notice a fair amount of plastic in the piles of compost but am told this will be filtered out before it is packed and sold for 10 shekel pr. piece to a farmer in need. The mould is dry with sharp edges but in fairness it was made in only three months. The normal aging time for a biodynamic mould is three years. When you work under the pressure of time, as in Gaza, you must make thing grow as the surroundings allow. The Israeli tradition for ecology is passed on, the greenhouses are filled with aubergine and chilli pepper. As the last stop we see a fish farm. Street food I find my way to the largest food market. Containers carry the smell of spices and vinegar from pickled beetroots and chilli. There is a racket from chickens and rabbits rummaging in their cages. Onions and nectarines are loaded on flatbeds. I doubt the many young boys in the market spend much time in school, instead they help their parents make a living. Placed on the grill lies four half pitas, arayes, spread with chopped green chilli, onion and some minced beef. A kafta. The other half of the pita is put on top. Watermelons are sold from large stalls along the main road. Everyone can afford a melon. Melon with bread or cheese equals a separate meal. Most eateries serve hummus, chickpeas mashed with vinegar and olive oil, can be eaten alone or spread in the kebab. Folfol, the characteristic chilli, can be found in read, green and the light green and very strong variation pickled, called kotis. The people generally make the most of what they have, which is next to nothing. It is a stimulating, sensory trinity between the strength of the chilli, the crispy melon and the creamy hummus. But besides the chickpeas, nutritional value is low, watery melon with chilli lowers your ability to feel full. Souk Food is at display in the bazaar. Facing the street Souk el shijaia seated at a counter you can sit and watch meat being prepared on a stick, shishkebab. Meat of lamb and cow represents an unheard-of luxury. Here all meat comes from the intestines of a chicken. A pita with grilled liver, chilli and cubes of lime tastes divine, the flavours far surpassing a factory-made shawarma. The street kitchens of Gaza tastes like chilli. When evening falls the central square of Al Jundi el Majhol is filled with children playing, families, friends and lovers. I get a cake from a bakery. The speciality of Gaza, kanafi arabije is made from cashew, walnut and pistachio nut hold together by a deliciously sticky cinnamon syrup. (translation from Danish by S.R. Bernstorff)

• published: 21 Sep 2011
• views: 5082