Ushba
Ushba from the outskirts of Mestia
Elevation	4,710 m (15,453 ft)
Location
Location	Svaneti region, Georgia
Range	Greater Caucasus Mountains
Coordinates	43°07′29″N 42°39′32″E / 43.12486°N 42.65901°E / 43.12486; 42.65901
Climbing
First ascent	1903 by expedition led by B. Rickmer-Rickmers[1]
Easiest route	Northeast Ridge (to North Summit) (AD+/Russian 4a)

Ushba (Georgian: უშბა) is one of the most notable peaks of the Caucasus Mountains. It is located in the Svaneti region of Georgia, just south of the border with the Kabardino-Balkaria region of Russia. Although it does not rank in the 10 highest peaks of the range, Ushba is known as the "Matterhorn of the Caucasus" for its picturesque, spire-shaped double summit. Due to its steep profile and unstable weather^{[citation needed]}, Ushba is considered by many climbers as the most difficult ascent in the Caucasus.

Ushba's south summit is slightly higher than its north summit, which has an elevation of 4,690 m (15,387 ft). The north summit was first climbed in 1888 by John Garford Cokklin and Ulrich Almer, while the south summit saw its first ascent in 1903 by a German-Swiss-Austrian expedition led by B. Rickmer-Rickmers.^[1]

Ushba's north summit is more accessible than the south summit: the standard route, the Northeast Ridge, ascends from the Russian side of the range to a high plateau and thence to the summit. (Hence a summit ascent on this route technically involves crossing the border.) The route is graded French AD+ or Russian 4a. Routes on the south summit, from the Georgian side, include two routes graded French ED.^[1]

Bibliography[link]

• Irving, R. L. G., Ten Great Mountains (London, J. M. Dent & Sons, 1940)^[2]

References[link]

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