Question:

I have recently taken delivery of a 2013 Audi SQ5. I have asked Audi for a quote to fit a towbar. The price quoted was around the $2700 mark. Is this price fair and reasonable or an example of overcharging?

Got a question for Drive's experts? Email qa@drive.com.au

Peter

Answer:

We contacted Audi Australia just to double check the pricing. A spokesman for the company confirmed what you have been quoted is the recommended price for fitting a factory two kit, which includes labour, wiring, wiring harnesses, modules, towbar and tongue, towball with chrome cover, 13/7 pin adapters and a blanking plug.

It is pricey compared to having a towbar fitted a decade years ago, but it is similar to other makes as towbars these days have more complex wiring and even their own modules to talk to the vehicle's stability control systems and park assist systems to make sure it is calibrated for proper use when towing and activate specific functions such as trailer sway control.

Question

For some years Mercedes-Benz insisted on using Mobil One 0/40 in oil changes for their cars. Now it says to use a Mercedes-Benz oil 5/40 on these same cars.

Why would they change their minds (apart from the fact that they are paying less for the oil and charging you the same or more)? What is the difference between these two oils. In particular what is the difference between the 0 and the 5, assuming all other factors are same.

Got a question for Drive's experts? Email qa@drive.com.au

John

Answer

Different Mercedes-Benz vehicles use different grade oils. We checked with Mercedes-Benz and a spokesperson states “The recommended oil for Mercedes-Benz vehicles varies across the range. We suggest that owners visit their local authorized Mercedes-Benz dealership to discuss their vehicles oil requirements”. As for the numbers on the oil you are talking about they refer to the oil's viscosity.  The first number - the 0 or 5 - refers to its viscosity when cold, or its resistance and ability to flow at low temperatures. The lower the number the less resistance and better the flow. The second number - 30 or 40 (there are many others) - relates to how thick the viscosity is at operating temperatures.  All engines and their tolerances are different and as they say “oil's aint oils” so it's best to always use the recommended grade for you vehicle.

Question

My VE SS is now out of warranty and I would love to modify the engine for more power. It is my second car and I don't mind spending money. What do you recommend doing? I was thinking of supercharging or even rebuilding the engine but after looking at forums I'm now a bit confused. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Got a question for Drive's experts? Email qa@drive.com.au

Glenn

Answer

The best advice we can give you is work out how much money you want to put into this project then work out what you want out of the car and what you are going to use it for ie, circuit racing, drag racing on weekends or are you still driving the car everyday in traffic or just a weekend cruiser.  Once you work that out, forget about the forums and go and visit a reputable engine builder/tuner and talk to them. The key to a good modified vehicle is balancing all the elements; if you upgrade the engine, make sure you consider the brakes, suspension and tyres too. You may be totally happy with a ECU edit and different diff ratio gears (your bank account certainly will!) or maybe what your chasing is a supercharger, of which there are plenty of options for Commodores. These shops see people in your position all the time and they also see people waste money on things they don't need but thought they did. Another tip before you do any modifications is to check with your insurance company if it will cover the vehicle with these type of modifications and make sure any changes you make to the vehicle are certified by an engineer and are legal.

Question

I'm currently driving a new Fiat 500. In the rain, I've noticed the windscreen wipers don't wipe across the glass in a clean swiping motion - instead, they sort of shudder across it. They work well enough in terms of clearing the water away, but the noise they make is quite annoying. I want to know whether changing the wiper blades will have any affect on how noisy the wipers are?

Matt

Got a question for Drive's experts? Email qa@drive.com.au

Answer

If the vehicle is relatively new it may still have a film of wax that has not been cleaned off the windscreen correctly, so changing the wiper blades (rubbers) will have no effect in this case. As with any vehicle, if the wiper blades are in good condition or new and there is no damage to your wiper arms the cause of wiper shudder is a dirty windscreen. Although your windscreen may look clean it is susceptible to the same road grime, dirt and fall out that makes your paint feel rough. Clean your windscreen with glass cleaner or metholated spirits. If you use a white cleaning cloth you should see the grim coming off, but for stubborn grime you can use a clay bar (the same type used to remove grime from paint) on the windscreen. In this case it would be worth cleaning the wiper blades so you don’t wipe any grim they may have on them back onto your clean screen.

Question

I have a 2010 Land Rover Discovery 4 HSE which will come out of warranty in September. Is the extended factory warranty a $3500 for an extra two years worth purchasing? Has there been any case studies done on this?

Michael

Got a question for Drive's experts? Email qa@drive.com.au

Answer

Extended warranties offered to owners from the actual manufacturer of the vehicle are the best kind, unlike some aftermarket warranties offered by independent companies which don't offer the same level of peace of mind. Land Rover Assured Extended Warranty Insurance (“warranty”) is provided by Allianz Australia Insurance Limited and, as stated by Land Rover, provides cover similar to the original manufacturer’s new vehicle warranty. If you purchase the extended warranty (price differs from model to model) your vehicle must have its scheduled servicing carried out by a Land Rover dealer. Servicing and repairs can be performed at any Land Rovers Australia dealer. Another good point is the Land Rover extended Warranty Insurance can be transferred to a new owner when you sell your vehicle privately, potentially adding to your vehicle’s resale value.
So, yes it’s a good proper warranty but it comes down to personal circumstances. If you are doing a lot of kilometres or planning some big trips it may be worth considering what some failures can cost. On the other hand, if you are doing very little driving it may not be worth the added cost. It is more of an insurance policy, and like most of them, it is a gamble; if only we had a crystal ball that could let you know whether you will have a problem with vehicle tomorrow or in five years we could give you a definitive answer.

Question

Hi Drive, I drove my parents' new Honda CRV 4WD VTi-L on the weekend. I don't think the leather is real leather and my parents are adamant that it is. Research on the Honda website shows it has "Leather†". The disclaimer stating: "Leather interior includes some PVC vinyl material." So... is it mostly leather with PVC piping or something like that? Or is this 'leather' slightly more misleading? I recall you have done an article on this previously about 'leatherette' and wanted to research this on behalf of my parents further. I think they are being taken for a ride.

Got a question for Drive's experts? Email qa@drive.com.au

Michael

Answer

As mentioned in Toby’s article, Fake leather, or vinyl, is becoming increasingly common in luxury cars as a way to lower prices, with BMW, Audi and Mercedes-Benz all offering the faux alternative to something traditionally sourced from an animal. Ironically, many cars from the mainstream brands such as Toyota, Hyundai, Mazda, Honda and Subaru have real leather in far more affordable models. We contacted Honda Australia to confirm what your CR-V seats are made from. The centre of the CR-V’s seats and seat bases (basically all the parts you actually sit on) are leather. The following parts are not leather, Side bolsters of the front and back seats which take the highest impact, head restraints and the back of the seats, and this is for durability.

Question

I am about to buy a new car and can't really get my head around how fix-priced servicing works - the dealer I have spoken to didn't make it clear. What I want to know is; do I have to get my car serviced at the same dealer from where I buy it or can I take it to my local dealer? I've found the car I want at a good price but the dealership is on the other side of town and it would be a big hassle driving there every time I want to service it.

Stephanie

Got a question for Drive's experts? Email qa@drive.com.au

Answer

In most fixed-price servicing programs you can get your car serviced at any official dealership - no matter where you buy it. But you can't get it done at your local mechanic or an independent service centre and expect the same fixed-price charges.

It's also important to look at the service intervals when calculating the real value of fixed price deals. That's because some brands have cheaper individual service costs, but more regular intervals, i.e. six months/10,000km instead of one year/15,000km. So it pays to calculate the costs over the full term to see if you are getting the right deal for yourself.

Question

I have a 2010 VE Commodore SV6 Series II Sportswagon (brilliant vehicle) and am wondering if the engine computer can be permanently optimised for 95 octane premium unleaded. I already notice a minimum of 10 per cent improvement in fuel economy on 95 compared to 91 octane (with ethanol) and better off idle response. Dealers, of course, know nothing. The feeling I have is that there is better performance/economy available if the engine were optimised for the better fuel. I also have an oil/filter change at 7,500km as oil is cheap and the engine less so.

On a recent trip to Queensland I achieved 7.8L/100km on 95 octane cruising at the speed limit so the SV6 is a very fuel efficient beast and 10-11L/100km is usual around town, so no complaints there either.

Ray

Got a question for Drive's experts? Email qa@drive.com.au

Answer

Ray, yes you can have the vehicle’s engine computer tuned specifically for higher-grade fuels but not through a Holden dealer. It would have to be performed by a specialised aftermarket engine tuner, but it may void any remaining warranty you have on the vehicle.

However, it would be largely unnecessary. The Commodore’s engine computer is intelligent enough to determine which grade of fuel is being used and automatically adjusts the ignition system to perform at its most efficient. It can not only recognise the octane rating of the fuel (even variations in the blend of ethanol up to 85 percent), but constantly adjusts for variances in air temperature and oxygen density depending on altitude.

As for your comments on the fuel consumption of your SV6 during your trip to QLD, they’re great figures but not all that surprising; the Commodore is still a remarkably efficient vehicle for long-distance cruising, particularly for its size.

Question

What causes tyre roar noise on the coarser type of highway surfaces and what can be done to reduce or eliminate it?

I recently bought a 2011 Honda Accord and the tyre roar is much worse than I have experienced in any vehicle before.

Jason

Got a question for Drive's experts? Email qa@drive.com.au

Answer

Tyre roar is a result of various factors, mainly the design of the tyres, the design of the car (including how much insulation it has), and, of course, the road surface.

Some cars naturally have more tyre roar than others mainly because the car maker has decided not to put in some of the insulation material. The insulation can be quite heavy, which impacts fuel consumption and performance. 

And tyre roar tends to be worse at higher speeds and on certain bitumen surfaces. 

Your best option in reducing tyre roar are the tyres themselves. 

Certain tyres are also worse for noise, especially if they are tailored more for performance/grip. Unfortunately it's difficult to tell by looking at them, so your best bet is to chat to tyre retailers to get an idea of which tyres will be better. Keep in mind, too, that tyre roar can get worse throughout the life of a tyre when it has worn down. 

Another way to help cut noise is to add insulation to the vehicle; there are aftermarket products such as Dynamat, which is a thin flexible product that can be moulded to floor pans, wheel arches, boot lids door skins to reduce road noise.

It generally works well but is a little pricy. A cheaper option is a sound deadener spray; it can be used under wheel arches, on underbody panels, insides guards, quarter panels, doors and also on floor pans and boot lids and can be applied by anyone with a spray gun or your local panel shop.

Question

My husband and I have just brought our daughter her first car, a 2005 Toyota Corolla hatch. We want to fit Bluetooth to the car to take away any temptation of her touching the phone while she is driving. What is the best system to fit to a Corolla?

Carol

Got a question for Drive's experts? Email qa@drive.com.au

Answer

The best aftermarket type of Bluetooth for any vehicle is a system that is fully integrated into the vehicle's stereo system. Most of these automatically turn off the stereo when you have an incoming call and route the audio through your car’s speakers. A basic version of this is usually about $350 installed, but the top versions with other features such as audio streaming and LCD screen display can cost about $550.Another option is to replace the stereo head unit with an aftermarket type equipped with Bluetooth, but you may not have that standard factory look or fit. There are cheaper options as mentioned here in a Drive article but the integrated system is the best way to go.

Question

I recently had a small accident in my 2005 Honda Accord, running into the back of a ute. The ute wasn't damaged but my Honda wasn't so lucky. The panel shop where my car is being repaired have informed me that my insurance company will only fit a new non-genuine bonnet to my car, otherwise I will need to pay the difference for a genuine bonnet. What is the difference and which way should I go? Any help would be appreciated.

Got a question for Drive's experts? Email qa@drive.com.au

Vanessa

Answer

A lot of non-genuine body panels never fit properly, which affects the look of the car due to alignment issues. Because of that, non-genuine parts can be susceptible to premature wear and corrosion.

Panels such as the bonnet protect occupants in accidents through strategically placed crumple zones. Non-genuine panels may not have these features.

The fact is, your insurance company is saving money by fitting the non-genuine bonnet. You may or may not have any problems, but if you do it will also affect your car's resale value.

We suggest arguing the point with your insurance company on these facts alone. Otherwise, if you don't succeed and you can afford the difference in price, we would definitely go for the genuine part in this case.

Question

My Ford Territory ran out of fuel and I have put 10 litres in it but it still won't run. It starts up OK but the engine just splutters and stalls again. The mechanic says the fuel filter needs replacing, but that will mean having it towed to the dealer. Could it be something else?

Got a question for Drive's experts? Email qa@drive.com.au

Mel

Answer

Even though your Territory has drunk the very last litre of fuel from the tank it can take 20 to 30 litres of fuel before the fuel pump assembly can fill and pick up fuel to start from a completely empty tank (different makes and models will vary). The fuel pump sits in a compartment called a swirl pot. This ensures the pump has a constant supply of fuel when cornering, braking and accelerating so the vehicle never starves of fuel, and also helps protect the pump from contamination and air. It is possible the fuel filter is blocked but unlikely if the vehicle was running perfectly before running out of fuel. The next best move would be to check the fuel pump fuse then add more fuel. If you still have no luck the fuel pump may have failed and a tow or road-side visit from a mechanic is needed.

Question

I would like your opinion. I recently received a quote for the next service on my car. My car is a 2009 MK6 Golf 118TSI DSG.

The quote I received for the 105,000-kilometre service is $298, which seems reasonable. I also requested a quote for an injector service and spark plugs replacement as currently the car tends to rough idle from time to time and has been known to misfire. I did hear that there was a recall for this problem, but have also been told that it was completed before I took ownership of the car.

The cost I received for the injector service is $165 and the cost of the spark plug replacement is $200. This is including GST, parts and labour. (Note all parts use will be genuine VW parts and oils)

My question is, does this seem reasonable? And where should I go from here if the new spark plug/injector service does not fix the rough idle problem?

Got a question for Drive's experts? Email qa@drive.com.au

Patrick

Answer

The prices you have been quoted are fairly normal for a dealership but it may be worth approaching your problem differently. If your injectors and spark plugs aren’t the issue and don’t need servicing or replacing you have wasted that money. Have the dealership diagnose and quote on fixing the rough idle/misfire issue first. You may even want to get a second opinion. There are so many other possibilities for the issue, such as carbon build up, a faulty coil pack, wiring, a sensor sending incorrect information, a valvetrain problem, or even fuel issue, just to name a few. Correct diagnosis is the key to the most cost-effective fix.

Question

My 1993 Ford Telstar car cut out when I was driving and wouldn't restart. I checked for a spark and there was none. I also changed the crank angle sensor car, The car started and ran for a while, but cut out on acceleration. I checked the fuel pump and it was OK, then checked the injector pulse and noticed light pulsing but very dim. Would it be possible the ECU is faulty?

Got a question for Drive's experts? Email qa@drive.com.au

John

Answer

There are a few other common faults to check out with this model, depending on which engine you have. It may be fitted with a distributor that has the ignition coil fitted internally. These are well known to earth out internally, and not producing a spark. The ECUs also have a problem with internal capacitors leaking with age and damaging the circuit board they are mounted to. This causes all sorts of faults including stalling and cutting out. It’s an easy job to remove the ECU and open it up to look for any signs of corrosion.

Question

Recently I have been thinking about buying a second hand TRD Aurion (yes the supercharged one); just purely because it's something a bit different and I've always been a bit of a fan of TRDs.

I was wondering if you could offer any advice as what to look for specifically with this particular car and if you had heard any feed back from current/previous owners. 

Also if there were any major problems with TRD Aurions, ie. mechanical faults, recalls etc. 

Got a question for Drive's experts? Email qa@drive.com.au

CR

Answer

The TRD Aurion is a fairly rare car so it’s definitely something a bit different. The problem is that there simply aren't enough on the roads to have a trend of problems develop. There were no TRD specific recalls - although they did stop shipment early in the piece after an early engine failure that Toyota said was a "one-off". What little owner feedback we have had is all good, after all it’s a Toyota so you're pretty safe regarding quality and reliability. Any car you’re considering buying is worth getting checked out professionally for all the usual things, as well as accident damage, especially if it’s a private sale. It would also be worth checking the vehicle's authenticity through Toyota just to make sure it’s the real deal and all the numbers match. The TRD will always be valuable and collectable to enthusiasts, but only if the vehicle is kosher.

Question

There is a squeaky noise coming from my wheels, is this a major concern? And what could the potential issue be?

Lucas

Answer

This should be checked out straight away. Although it may only be a light squeak it could be an indication your brake pads are worn and need replacing. A lot of vehicles have a small metal clip on the brake pad itself that will start to rub on the brake disc when the pads are almost worn out. This can make a squeaking noise to start off with before turning into a higher pitch squeal when the pad is almost completely gone. The noise could also be something very minor such as glazed brake pads or dust contaminated brakes or steering and suspension related, either way any noise from from your wheels should be checked out just to be safe.

Question

I have a 1999 BMW E39 528i, the park brake shoes were replaced and hand brake was adjusted 12 months ago. The park brake is now doing the job, it won't roll backward but will definitely roll forward on a hill no matter how far i pull the hand brake handle. Do you think it is the adjustment only or the mechanism item?

Lawrence

Answer

It could be an adjustment problem or an issue arising from the surface area needing machining but not carried out when the shoes were replaced. There is also the possibility here that the handbrake shoes were not bedded in correctly when fitted.  BMW has a specific bedding-in procedure when fitting new handbrake shoes (all brake pads and shoes need bedding in), and if this is not followed it could create one of the symptoms that you are describing. BMW also says the hand brake should operate between 3 to 7 clicks.  We recommend taking your vehicle back to where you had the work done and ask them to bed-in the shoes properly and potentially rectify the problem. And, if they have the goodwill, it should be done under a service warranty if it is simply a case of them not bedding in the shoes correctly.

Question

I am interested in purchasing a Ford Focus diesel because of the good reviews the vehicle has received and the diesel for the power and torque that it provides.

We would use the vehicle for shorter trips in the city and the occasional longer country runs. I have been advised that the drawback with a diesel with limited use in the city is that the filters require cleaning/replacement on a regular basis and that this could become an expensive proposition. I have also been told that this is no longer the case with modern vehicles. I am a bit confused, can you help?

Ross

Answer

Many modern turbo diesels - including the Focus diesel - have a particulate filter that cleans the exhaust emissions and gets rid of much of the black, sooty smoke. 

The filters self clean when the exhaust system gets hot enough, which usually requires 20 or 30 minutes of driving at speed. If the filter becomes clogged - which can easily happen if you're doing lots of shorter trips - it will give you a warning on the dash and the solution is to simply drive the car for at least 20 minutes (check the owner's manual for exact details).  It's also worth looking at the overall costs, though. According to the official fuel figures that adhere to the government standard (keep in mind you'll use more in everyday driving) the Focus petrol uses about 30 per cent more fuel than the diesel. Assuming today's fuel prices of about $1.50 a litre and 15,000km of annual travel it means that in everyday driving you'll probably only save about $400 a year in fuel costs by buying the diesel. 

Given the diesel model is $3500 more expensive in the first place, that's at least seven years of driving to pay it off.  So as a general rule (and for cars where the diesel engine is more expensive) we'd only recommend buying the diesel if you're doing upwards of 20,000km a year and a decent chunk of that is country driving.

Question

I would like to personally do 7500km oil and filter changes on my Mitsubishi Triton, I did it on my old Triton and I have a technical background. I’ll leave the 15,000km service to the dealer.

But things are pretty tight down near the oil filter and I think it looks a difficult task to remove it once the filter is disconnected from the motor. No problem unscrewing it, but a different story to get it out.

It would appear that it is necessary to remove the intercooler inlet hose from the turbocharger to provide sufficient room to remove the old and install the new filter. Could you advise if this is correct please?

Secondly, is it necessary to pre-fill the new filter to say 50 per cent capacity prior to installation to reduce the time required for the oil pressure light to extinguish once the engine is started.

Milton

Answer

You do not need to removed the intercooler inlet hose. After checking with a Mitsubishi technician, their method for removing the oil filter is to remove the plastic guard inside the passenger side wheel arch and approach the filter that way, it’s a clearer path to the filter. This however does require

It’s also worth noting the old oil filter seal is prone to sticking to the engine block, so be mindful of that, if you screw the new filter onto the old stuck seal you will have oil everywhere.

As for your second query about pre-filling the filter, that is not necessary and given its location it will save a lot of mess.

Question

I have just purchased a 2007 Subaru Forester with 200,000kms on the clock. I know that’s high but the car has been used for long freeway miles every day and has been owned by the one owner since new, fully service record, no oil leaks, tight motor etc. So all good so far. But I have noticed a dull “thumping sound”, hard to describe but sound not unlike helicopter blades when they spin or a flat tyre. The tyres are all brand new, it has just had its major service with new timing belt. It appears at 60km/h in fourth gear on a light throttle and later at around 110km/h also on a light throttle. It is not the heat shields, which often are noisy because they are in perfect condition. Nor does it appear to be  the driveshafts as there is  no noise when turning lock to lock while moving and it can only be heard really at those two speeds. The noise does not affect performance. I just don’t know what it could be so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Paul

Answer

This is a very hard to answer without having the vehicle to diagnose the fault, a trip to your mechanic is recommended, take them for a drive and reproduce the noise/fault. A few possibilities could be an intermittent misfire under light loads as you have described. Sometimes a misfire like this can transfer through the driveline making a thumping noise and can be tricky to diagnose, to the point where it can feel like a transmission fault on some vehicles. A common cause of a misfire is an ignition lead but a coil or spark plug could be one of many culprits. It would also be worth checking out all the suspension and driveline bushes, you could have a worn or collapsed engine or transmission mount and worn diff bushes are common at higher mileage Subarus.

Question

When buying a new car, one is always offered paint protection. I'm not really in a position to know whether it is worth it or not. I recall seeing footage of car makers baking their cars to test their paint, so one would expect that the paint is already excellent. But I also have heard of car makers skimping on basic things to save costs, and maybe good paint is sometimes one of those things. Other than a little dated advice by the NRMA, I haven't found a reliable informed opinion on the matter. Perhaps you can help. 

 

Julian

Answer

In short, don't bother. Paint on most modern cars is of high standard these days and can hold up to the elements for some time, but just like the human skin it holds up much better when protected. The paint protection that is up-sold in dealerships is usually overpriced and in a lot of cases not worth the money you pay. We'd recommend cleaning your car regularly and getting it waxed every six months or so (depending on how much weather it cops). Keeping a car out of the elements is also a great way to keep the paint in top nick.

Question

I bought  a 2003 Nissan Pulsar hatchback and I am having trouble with its headlights. The headlights are not bright enough and while driving at night I am unable to see the road sometimes. The lenses are not yellow and I have replaced the bulbs to 65w from standard 55w but the result is still same.

Sushil 

Answer

Unfortunately a lot of Japanese cars from that era simply don't have great headlights. You could try changing the globes to a newer type that produces brighter/whiter light. It would also be worth a trip to an auto electrician. They can check you don't have any earthing/wiring issues and your battery and alternator are doing their job correctly.

Question

I have a 2011 manual Toyota Corolla Sports sedan. I am having very strange issues with its gearbox. It feels likes it is full of gravel. When I release the clutch it makes a creaking noise. The dealers says there is no problem with the car.

I cannot go to a private mechanic as that will void the warranty. Could you please advise if there have been any known issues with the Corolla manual gearbox.

Vinod

Answer

The noise you are describing doesn't sound normal, but we are not aware of any common issues with the Corolla's manual gearbox. We would recommend taking your vehicle to another Toyota dealer for a second opinion. You can also take your car to a independent mechanic for another opinion on the gearbox, although they may charge you for the time spent diagnosing the fault. An independent mechanic cannot carry out warranty work (you would have to pay) but they can service your car using genuine parts and not void your warranty. If another Toyota dealer cannot find your problem but an independent mechanic can, it would be worth contacting Toyota's customer assistance staff and explaining your concerns. They will take appropriate action.

Question

I recently had a flat battery, and because I don't own any jumper leads I was left waiting for the roadside assistance guy, which was really inconvenient. My question is, what are the best jumper leads to buy and what is the correct procedure when jump-starting?

Steve

Got a question for Drive's experts? Email qa@drive.com.au

Answer

When purchasing jumper leads it's worth spending some extra money to get cables that are equipped with anti zap/spike protection. This can protect you from harming the vehicle's electrical system.

Good cables for passenger vehicles should be rated for at least 200 amps and made of 10mm gauge copper cable for the best power transfer.

The very basics of jump starting are: make sure all electrical components are switched off in both vehicles (headlights, airconditioning, stereo, etc). Connect one end of the (red) cables' to the positive terminal (that's the ones with the "+" sign) to the flat battery.

Next, connect the other end of the positive cable to the positive battery terminal of the jumper car. Then, connect the negative (black) cable to the negative battery terminal (that's the one with the "-" symbol) on the jumper car.

It's important to be careful not to let clamps touch each other.

Next, you need to connect the other end of the negative cable to a metal earth point, such as the engine block or the body of the vehicle under bonnet (but don't connect it to the aircon pipes, fuel or brake line) of the vehicle with the flat battery.

Start the jumper car and let it run for a minute or two before trying to start the vehicle with the flat battery. When started, leave both vehicles connected to jumper leads for a few minutes before disconnecting the cables in the reverse order they were connected.

Always be careful not to let the cables rub on a fan belt or lay on cooling fans, exhaust or any moving engine parts.

Refer to your owner's manual if you are unsure, and if it's all too much, call roadside assistance. A dead battery could also mean there is another problem or the battery is past its lifespan, so have your vehicle checked out by a mechanic.