Look up fustian in Wiktionary, the free dictionary.

Fustian (also called Fustanum^[1][2] and bombast) is a term for a variety of heavy woven cloth, cotton fabrics, that are chiefly prepared for menswear. It is also used to refer to pompous, inflated or pretentious writing or speech, from at least the time of Shakespeare. This literary use is because the cloth type was often used as padding, hence, the purposeless words are 'bombast'.

History and use[link]

Corduroy:This modern diagram shows the warp(3) and the long (red-4) and short (green-5) weft threads, traditionally the knife (1) and the guide (2) are attached and the cutting motion is upwards

It embraces plain twilled cloth known as jean, and cut fabrics similar to velvet, known as velveteen, moleskin, corduroy etc. The original medieval fustian was a stout but respectable cloth with a cotton weft and a linen warp, possibly derived from El-Fustat, the name of a suburb of Cairo where cloth was manufactured.^[3][4] The term seems to have quickly become less precise, and was applied to a coarse cloth made of wool and linen, and in the reign of Edward III of England, the name was given to a woolen fabric. By the early 20th century, fustians were usually of cotton dyed various colors.

In a petition to Parliament during the reign of Mary I, "fustian of Naples" is mentioned. In the 13th and 14th centuries priests' robes and women's dresses were made of fustian, but though dresses are still made from some kinds, the chief use is for labourers' clothes.

Fustian, by the 1860s referred to any cut weft cotton fabric, and its manufacture was common in towns of the fringe of the Lancashire cotton region, such as Congleton in Cheshire, Mow Cop, Staffordshire and Heptonstall in Calderdale.

Manufacture[link]

Crucial to process of manufacture was fustian cutting. This was a hand process using a fustian cutting knife. This tool was around 50cm long, and looked like a long spike, about 10cm from the tip, the top edge was sharpened into a blade. It was inserted along the fabric along side two warp threads, and under the raised weft, as it was guide forward the lade severed the weft. In corduroy, there were seven ridges to the inch, so along a 31in bolt, there would be about 320 cuts to be done.^[5] In the 1860s, the cloth would be stretched over a 22yd long table, and the cutters would walk the length of the table as many times as was necessary, in recent times the cloth was tensioned over a 6ft table and all the cuts made, and then the cloth would be released and the next two yards tensioned onto the table. Over a 60hr week the cutter would be expected to produce 500 yards of 7-8 ridge corduroy. Velveteen was cut the same way but had 32 ridges per inch so production would be proportionately less.^[5]

Cutting was one part of the process. The yarn was sized and the cloth was woven- there would be a high number of weft threads to warp. The ridges were manually cut, and the cloth sent to be finished. It was scoured to remove the size, and brushed to raise the nap. This was then singed over a gas flames, then bleached and or dyed. It was brushed again. It was now stentered to pull it out to the standard width. The cloth was woven at 31 or 32 inches and during processing has shrunk to 27inches. Stentering would stabilise the width to 28inches. The back of the cloth would now be filled to give it stiffness. This could be with a glue based mixture that could be formed from boiled bones. Each manufacturer had their own techniques. The cloth was now ready to be taken to the warehouse to be sold.^[5]

Political significance[link]

Fustian was worn by workers during the 19th century. As such, radical elements of the British working class chose to wear fustian jackets as a symbol of their class allegiance. This was especially marked during the Chartist era. The historian Paul Pickering has called the wearing of fustian "a statement of class without words."^[6]

Notes[link]

1. ^ Abbey, Ramsey (1966). Chronicon abbatiæ rameseiensis: a sæc x. usque ad an. circiter 1200: in quatuor partibus. Partes I., II., III., iterum post Th. Gale, ex chartulario in archivis regni servato, pars IV. nunc primum ex aliis codicibus. Kraus Reprint. p. 424. OCLC 54878467. "[Spelman quotes the passage, and adds " Non eqoidem " intelligo," but refers to Erasmus' Colloquies for the use of the word fustanum for fustian cloth, of which several instances are given in Ducange.] G. Gaola, a prison, 344." 
2. ^ English 18th century dances, Volume 3. New York Public Library. 1813. p. 108. http://books.google.com.hk/books?hl=zh-TW&id=I7oRAAAAYAAJ&q=Fustanum%2C+or+fustian#v=snippet&q=Fustanum%2C%20or%20fustian&f=false. "Fustanum, or fustian, was, what it is at this period, a strong cloth made of cotton ; and priests, as well as the lower ranks, wore it in vests, tunics, and sunouts." 
3. ^ "fustian". Oxford English Dictionary. Oxford University Press. 3rd ed. 2001.
4. ^ Donald King in: Jonathan Alexander & Paul Binski (eds), Age of Chivalry, Art in Plantagenet England, 1200-1400, p. 157, Royal Academy/Weidenfeld & Nicholson, London 1987
5. ^ ^{a b c} Fustian cutting video Calderdale Museums and Galleries, Heptonstall Museum, 2010
6. ^ See Paul A. Pickering, "Class Without Words: Symbolic Communication in the Chartist Movement"

References[link]

• The Online Etymology Dictionary
•  This article incorporates text from a publication now in the public domain: Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). Encyclopædia Britannica (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. 
• Pickering, Paul, A., "Class Without Words: Symbolic Communication in the Chartist Movement", Past and Present, cxii, August 1986, 144-162.

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Drew Danburry
Background information
Genres	Indie, Folk, Singer-Songwriter
Occupations	Singer-songwriter
Instruments	Vocals Guitar Piano
Years active	2002 – current
Labels	Emergency Umbrella Another Record
Associated acts	Drew Danburry/Fatal Fury and the Lasercats, White Chocolate, Dancing Drew, The Danburrys
Website	drewdanburry.com
Members
Drew Danburry
Past members
Josh Rosenberg, Micah Dahl Anderson, Rob Myers, Elliot Maldonado, Travis Bunn, Wyatt McKenzie
Notable instruments
Guitar

Drew Danburry is a singer-songwriter who has toured independently and released records since 2002. He currently owns and runs a barber shop in Provo, Utah.

History[link]

Beginnings (2003-2005)[link]

In 2003, Drew Danburry began recording songs in the basement apartment where he lived in Provo, UT. In 2004, after trying to organize a backing band on the road and selling homemade copies of his first album "An Introduction To Sex Rock" he began touring alone.

Beginning in 2005, he re-released a shorter version of his first album "An Introduction To Sex Rock" and released his second album "Besides: Are We Just Playing Around Out Here Or Do We Mean What We Say?" and began touring nationally. He toured extensively with the bands Lydia, The Robot Ate Me, and Aubrey Debauchery.

He was invited to play the Pop Montreal Music Festival and played shows with bands such as Scary Kids Scaring Kids, Meg & Dia, Hockey Night, Racetrack, Benton Paul, Will Sartain and Seve vs. Evan.

Full-time (2006-2007)[link]

In 2006, he embarked on a seven month long national tour playing pretty much everywhere he could in the United States. He toured for short stints with Harry and the Potters, Aubrey Debauchery, TaughtMe, and Seve vs. Evan. He played shows with the bands Deer Tick, Viking Moses, Joshua James, Headlights, The Little Ones, Horse Feathers, Red Pony Clock, Jason Anderson, Cedarwell, and Southerly. He met Elliot Maldonado who began to play banjo with him and in the fall they embarked on a two month long self-booked European tour. They decided to name the new formation of the musical project "Drew Danburry/Fatal Fury and the Lasercats".

In 2007, Drew released Drew Danburry/Fatal Fury and the Lasercats's "Live In France!" a live album from two separate shows recorded in France and toured with the bands Lilu Dallas, BigBigCar (later known as Grampall Jookabox, or just Jookabox), Jacob Smigel, The Robot Ate Me, Aubrey Debauchery, Riesage, and Iji. At the turn of July he marked his 500th show at Kilby Court in Salt Lake City since his tour kickoff there in February 2005 and announced his indefinite hiatus from touring for a chance to recoup physically, emotionally and financially.

By the end of the year though, he had already released a new EP called "Mother", had been invited back to play the Pop Montreal Music Festival and played shows with Lydia, Zookeeper, Umbrellas, Jake Bellows (of Neva Dinova), Someone Still Loves You Boris Yeltsin, Headlights, Mount Eerie, Thanksgiving, Deer Tick, Math the Band, Fishboy, Everthus the Deadbeats, Chick Pimp, June Madrona, and Seve vs. Evan.

Emergency Umbrella Records (2008-2010)[link]

In 2008, Drew signed to the label Emergency Umbrella Records and established an official lineup for the band that lasted for roughly two weeks until finances forced him to again tour alone. He released the album "This Could Mean Trouble, You Don't Speak For the Club" on Emergency Umbrella Records and toured to promote the album throughout the fall. Playing shows with Bishop Allen, An Horse, Brighten, Surrogate, Deer Tick, Larkin Grimm, Karl Blau, Math the Band, Will Sartain, The Giranimals, Redbear, The Blanket Truth, Watercolor Paintings, Iji, Adam and Darcie, and Canoe.

In 2009, he toured with the bands Someone Still Loves You Boris Yeltsin, Ryland Bouchard (previously the Robot Ate Me), Emperor X, Zoe Boekbinder (of Vermillion Lies) and Desert Noises. He played the Pop Montreal Music Festival and the Pygmalion Music Festival. He played shows with Lenka, Pomegranates, Wye Oak, Grand Archives, The Local Natives, Elsinoire, Hallelujah the HillsThe Terrordactyls, Polka Dot Dot Dot, and many other independent artists such as The Awful Truth, Iji, Fishboy, Viking Moses, Wild Moccasins, Wonky Tonk, Chick Pimp, Ash Reiter, JP Haynie, Jacob Smigel, Will Sartain, Adam and Darcie. He also released the EP Geraniums with the French Label Another Record.

In 2010, he played with the bands Miniature Tigers, Paleo and Cameron McGill. He released the album "Goodnight Gary" on Emergency Umbrella Records and self-released the sequel "Goodnight Dannii". He began a large amount of side projects and played his supposed "last live show" at Kilby Court on May 14, 2010.

Discography[link]

Albums/EPs[link]

• An Introduction to Sex Rock (Self-Released, 2004)
• Besides: Are We Just Playing Around Out Here... (Self-Released, 2005)
• Live In France! (Self-Released, 2007), as Drew Danburry/Fatal Fury and the Lasercats
• Mother EP (Self-Released, 2007)
• This Could Mean Trouble, You Don't Speak For the Club (Emergency Umbrella, 2008)
• Geraniums EP (Another Record, 2009)
• Goodnight Gary (Emergency Umbrella, 2010)
• Goodnight Dannii (Emergency Umbrella, 2010)
• Grad School Application (Self-Released, 2010)

Sources[link]

• http://www.emergencyumbrella.com/drewdanburry.html
• http://www.venuszine.com/articles/music/live_reviews/5541/Someone_Still_Loves_You_Boris_Yeltsin_surprises_a_hip_Chicago_crowd
• http://www.orovillemr.com/entertainment/ci_12310599
• http://www.tinymixtapes.com/Drew-Danburry
• http://subculture.in/music/drew-danburry-this-could-mean-trouble-you-don%E2%80%99t-speak-for-the-club/
• http://www.bumpershine.com/2007/10/03/pop-montreal-starts-today.html
• http://indierockreviews.com/index.php?Itemid=70&id=892&option=com_content&task=view
• http://archives.heavemedia.com/interview/2007/11/14/interview-drew-danburry
• http://www.americana-uk.com/auk/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=1614
• http://www.americana-uk.com/auk/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=3628
• http://www.americana-uk.com/auk/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=4544
• http://www.punknews.org/review/8202^{[unreliable source?]}
• http://www.punknews.org/review/7109^{[unreliable source?]}
• http://www.punknews.org/review/8162^{[unreliable source?]}
• http://www.absolutepunk.net/showthread.php?t=288504^{[unreliable source?]}
• http://www.absolutepunk.net/showthread.php?t=152550^{[unreliable source?]}
• http://www.allmusic.com/artist/p905873 credibility|date=May 2009}}

External links[link]

• http://www.drewdanburry.com/
• http://www.emergencyumbrella.com/
• http://drewdanburry.blogspot.com/
• http://www.last.fm/music/Drew+Danburry