Style Bubble

Bunny Boilers

>> I am just about ready to go all serious on you and dissect some of the collections I've seen, using words like "juxtaposition" and "nuance".  Before I do that though, I think it's time to get joyful and celebrate the end of London Fashion Week with more of Katie Hillier's bunnies.  Once again, she has done an animation with Sadie and Joe Williams to celebrate the S/S 13 collection, which was being showcased at Showroom Next Door this week.  Seeing as I have a mass of hair that doesn't really do much other than fall into a wig-like formation (oh, and I'm someone who is mentally challenged by hair products), adorning it with barrettes and bobbles is about the most I can do with my barnet.  Therefore these twinkly-eyed bunnies in rainbow stripes and juicy colours are just the ticket for cheering up my dullard head.  Likewise a high ponytail secured with a boring black band could infinitely improve with a smiley faced rabbit or giant gumballs.  Hillier has also introduced coloured enamels this season to pep up the fine jewellery.  The Hillier animal paperclip ark also gets bigger as an elephant and a deer joins the older generation of squirrels, rabbits and hedgehogs.  Finally you can spell out something witty on your shirt pocket with the new alphabet paper clips that Hiller has created.  I'd wear "LOVE" on one pocket and "FOOD" on another.  

I Be Running

>> It turns out that even though I've slacked off marathon training (and blog posting evidently...) during London Fashion Week, I'm getting enough of a work out zooming around shows - running through Somerset House to Freemasons Hall, running through Hyde Park through blades of grass to get to Burberry, running like the wind out of the Topshop Venue at Bedford Square to get to wherever it is I need to go.  In short - I be running.  A lot.  So much so that I've probably been a tad rude out and about when people try and stop me to take a picture/ask a question/say hi.  LFW has been packed to say the least and even more hectic to try and do in its entirity if you don't have a chauffeured car.  

It's finally coming to an end now and I need to inhale and exhale after a few shows that left me speechless in a good way.  Once I've calmed down and gotten over my inner dramatics, I'll get to the business of posting.  I have written a little column every day in this week's LFW Daily if you're interested in seeing why I've been zooming around.  For now on the blog, I can only show you what I've been running around in.

On day two, I went for part-practical, part-flamoyant as I wore my lovely vintage Zandra Rhodes satin jacket with an Antipodium shirt and skirt from the resort collection and then my trusty lime green Nikes and Karen Walker cap just to say "Look, I am sporty!  Promise!", even if I do have satin bows running up and down my chest.  

Street FSN for Grazia.It

Tommy Ton for Style.com

On day three, I was trying to hypnotise people into thinking that I'm not in fact looking terribly exhausted and slightly ropey, by wearing a quilted J.W. Anderson top with a busy Equipment fruit print shirt.  Down below, my Oh My God bronze skirt and J.W. Anderson x Topshop trousers were also supposed to avert people's gaze from my bedraggled appearance.  It was good to know that because of that impactful presentation, people immediately recogonised the sandals as Sophia Webster.  Mission accomplished.      

Le 21ème | Adam Katz Sinding

Tommy Ton for Style.com

Sophia Dolls

Young and fresh shoe designers don't come knocking on the door that often.  Young, fresh and astonishingly good shoe designers definitely come around maybe once in a blue moon.  Sophia Webster's debut presentation was therefore a treat to be relished, so much so that I squealed everytime someone asked me how the presentation was just as I was leaving.  It was a shamelessly girly squeal, one that could be heard maybe five streets away because of its decibel levels.  Webster hasn't just sprung out of nowhere though.  She's been carrying the label of being Nicholas Kirkwood's "protégé" due to the fact that this award-winning Cordwainers and RCA graduate worked for Kirkwood for two years before launching her own line.  Kirkwood is also curiously supporting Webster in the production and sales of her own collection which can't be over-emphasised as to how important this is in setting up a young designer.  It's a lovely tale to hear that Kirkwood promised to help Webster start her own collection once she had worked two years with him.  Kirkwood's stamp of approval, mentorship and support has immediately gotten Webster stockists such as colette, Net a Porter, Harvey Nichols and Bergdorf Goodman with her resort 2013 collection.  It's a relationship that to me strikes me as a sort of Rei Kawakubo/Junya/Tao type set-up.  Nicholas Kirkwood and Sophia Webster are two separate brands but are sort of within the same family, complimenting each other and of course from Webster's perspective, she has the back end supported by what is an established shoe brand.  Neither compete with each other because Webster's aesthetic is so distinctively young whereas Kirkwood's has matured over the years into a high end and ultra luxurious product. This sort of mentorship relationship feels especially potent in a field such as footwear where getting noticed and getting production right can be tricky.  

Of course for all of Kirkwood's support and nurturing, none of that would really matter if Webster didn't actually deliver the goods.  She does in spades.  In fact, she's probably staged the most ambitious presentation I've ever seen for a shoe line.  She marked her debut with a bang by referencing my favourite film of all time - Welcome to the Dollhouse.  Life size Sophia dolls stood in brilliantly constructed boxes, accessorised to the nines with bags and shoes from Webster's main S/S 13 collection, which was inspired by her holiday to Rio and all the colours and vibrancy that she took away from it.  She's already established a penchant for a poppy take on Aztec patterns, Hmong tribal motifs and Yayoi Kusama's dots and all of that is still very much present in this new collection.  She allowed herself to take it to another level by pushing the boat out for more pastels, more bows, more pop art references, more kitsch - just more of everything really.   Who knew a flamingo could make an appearance on a shoe and look so convincing?  About five people came up to me and said "You need this entire room!" and I wondered, "How do I make that happen?"  I could have quite happily stayed there for hours on end, squealing over these lifesize dolls and their ensembles.  

If you haven't got excited enough about Webster's shoe and accessory candy, then the real kicker is that Webster's collection will be pitched at a high contemporary price-point.  I.e. not as expensive as Kirkwood's shoes - something between £195 to £595.  Not dirt cheap but definitely attainable and touchable.  Just another reason why Kirkwood and Webster go hand in hand together.  Now the wait begins until Webster's shoes start properly pounding the streets, which will no doubt be inevitable after this stellar presentation sees a loud clamour from buyers and customers alike.  

Webster did two pair of shoes for Sister by Sibling's show today in the brightest of neons... 

And yes... these are real Sophia Webster baby sandals.  And they are going into production.  Auntie Susie here needs to splash out on two special girl tots, who both deserve these delightful shoes... 

Minnie and Me

I can't quite express how BIG of an impact Disney had on my childhood.  Most will have watched the films in passing and maybe remember a song or two.  I'm the geek who will be breaking out with Pocahontas' Colours of the Wind or The Little Mermaid's Part of Your World at karaoke.  Hell, not even karaoke.  I'll bust those tunes out at any dinner chez Lau.  Disney rules.  If anyone says otherwise, I'll sing Disney tunes right into their ears until they bleed.  Or animated flowers and birds come flying out.    

Of all the characters of this animation empire, Minnie Mouse has been somewhat shafted in the attention stakes.  Her beau Mickey is far more famous and their shared silhouette of the ears sometimes makes it easy just to lump the two together as a pair that are permanent attached to each other, devoted in their love of bright red garments and spongey white gloves, a jolly smile and a squeaky laugh.  2012 is the year that Minnie has decided to strike out on her own.  She's her own woman and she'll be getting a wardrobe to prove it.  This moment of emancipation comes courtesy of a big ol' fashion initiative to get Minnie some better duds beyond her usual polka dot dress (although I wouldn't knock it - Rei Kawakubo and Yayoi Kusama owes a fair bit to Miss Minnie) and in London a quite brilliant rollcall of designers are involved - Giles Deacon, Richard Nicoll, Michael van der Ham have all provided Minnie-inspired outftisand Husam el Odeh, Katie Hillier, Tatty Devine, Piers Atkinson, Lulu Guinness and Terry de Havilland have kitted her out with jewellery, bags and headgear.  These "Inspired by Minnie" pieces will be going to auction on eBay to raise money for the BFC/Bazaar Fashion Arts Foundation.  Thus far, the auctions aren't looking too scarily priced but the auction does run until the 23rd September.  I'll do my usual eBay thing and try and jump in last minute to see what I can get my hands on. 

Given my love of all things Disney, I asked all participating designers to tell us a Disney-related memory.  Ok, so not everyone shares my very INTENSE love of Disney but they were all a good sport for answering the question.  

"I actually don't have strong memories particularly which maybe helped me to make something abstract and un-nostalgic from the brief." Richard Nicoll

"I was aware of Minnie from being a youngster, thought I was always much more of a Goofy,Daffy and Pluto fan." Giles Deacon

"Growing up, America always seemed so bright and exciting, and I think that Minnie Mouse and the Disney characters are very much part of that landscape.  Even as an adult visiting Disneyland, I was drawn to the 'Ears' Hats, so I think that there is something very special and direct about that simplicity." Andrew Bunney

"I don’t think anyone could possibly miss out on Disney as a child but I really loved Mickey, and I still have my Mickey Mouse ‘first spoon and fork’ (which I use to make tea) and my red Mickey watch where his arms spin round to tell the time!" Piers Atkinson

"I definitely grew up with a lot of Disney films at home." Michael van der Ham

"I was obsessed with Disneys comic books as a kid, so Minnie was one of the first Women in my life. I think her temper slightly scared at the time, but ultimately she is one of the most loveable characters of my childhood" Husam el Odeh

"Minnie's style is a big influence on us.  The first items of clothing that ever made us feel cool had Minnie Mouse prints on. We had Minnie Mouse watches where her hands moved round the clock, and reversible padded sweatshirts with her print all over it." Rosie Wolfenden and Harriet Vine of Tatty Devine

"When I was ten my Mum and Dad took me to Disney World in Florida - we went every year until I was about 23. On my first trip to Disney I ran up to Minnie, I remember she picked me up and swung me around, I hugged her until my dad had to come and remove me! It was like all my dreams had come true. I then made my mum and dad take me to buy my own Minnie and she didn't leave my side for years!" Katie Hillier

 

From left to right, top to bottom: Bags by Lulu Guinness, Necklace by Tatty Devine, Dress by Richard Nicoll, Hat by Piers Atkinson, Shoes by Terry de Havilland, Necklace by Katie HIllier, Dress by Michael van der Ham, Jacket by Meadham Kirchhoff, Dress and bow by Giles, Dress and trousers by Richard Nicoll, Headband by Husam el Odeh, Badges by Bunney