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7 August, 2012 | by Julien Neuville

The Spotlight | Laurenceairline

Laurenceairline A/W 2012 | Photo: Cyrille Robin for BoF

PARIS, France — Many recent international fashion collections have been ’inspired’ by African culture and crafts. But why have we heard so little about designers originating from Africa itself?

Enter Laurenceairline, a small Paris-based menswear label, founded less than a year ago by Ivory Coast-born Laurence Chauvin Buthaud, who seems poised to make her mark on menswear.

“I mix different materials until I find the perfect balance, but it all starts with the fabric,” says Buthaud, who is known for combining graphic African textiles with sleek, sophisticated construction.

Importantly, Laurenceairline avoids the traditional ‘tribal’ clichés often associated with African inspired fashion, and instead, re-imagines the continent’s cultural inheritance in a way that is distinctly modern and international. For Autumn/Winter 2012, the brand’s second season, Buthaud mixed African influences with Japanese polka dots and Scottish plaid.

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7 August, 2012 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Prada revenues jump, Bill Blass shake up, Magazine newsstand sales drop, Lucky clicks, Elin Kling

Prada Autumn/Winter 2012 | Source: Ftape

Prada first-half revenue buoyed by robust Asian growth (Reuters)
“Italian fashion house Prada, which competes with Louis Vuitton and PPR’s Gucci, posted a 36.5 percent jump in first-half revenue, buoyed by strong growth in Asia, with sales driven mainly by its Prada and Miu Miu brands.”

Bill Blass Fires Designer. Again(On the Runway)
“Jeffrey Monteiro and the rest of the women’s design team at Bill Blass were dismissed last week in the latest blow to a brand that has had more than its share of them in the last decade.”

A Tough Half for Newsstand Sales (WWD)
“While a few fashion and lifestyle magazines reported virtually no change in newsstand compared to last year, that wasn’t the case for the majority of titles. During the first six months of this year, most publishers were lucky if they reported only a single-digit decline.”

Guided by Lucky Magazine, Shopping Will Soon Require Less Clicking (NY Times)
“Before women go to the mall, they go to the shopping bible Lucky. Now the magazine wants to save them the price of gas… Instead of directing shoppers to store sites to buy items, a shopper never has to leave the myLucky site and can keep items from multiple stores in her shopping cart.”

Who’s that girl? Elin Kling (Telegraph)
“Kling’s blog, Style by Kling , has garnered an army of adoring readers since she launched in 2007. Less well-known is her role as co-founder of a blog portal, Fashion Networks International. FNI’s website, NowManifest.”

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6 August, 2012 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Apple eyes The Fancy, LVMH in India, Anya’s investors, Techie fashionistas, Chinese superblogger

Joe Einhorn, CEO The Fancy | Source: Forbes

Apple Wants To Buy Pinterest Rival, The Fancy (Business Insider)
“Apple is in talks to acquire The Fancy, a fast-growing social commerce site backed by cofounders of Twitter and Facebook, Business Insider has learned. The objective: to secure a role for Apple in the growing e-commerce market.”

L Capital in talks with top fashion designers to setup LVMH clone in India (Economic Times)
“Private equity firm L Capital is in talks with top Indian designers to create an Indian luxury house loosely resembling its parent – the Paris-based world’s biggest maker of luxury goods, LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton.”

Qatari investment group buys Anya stake (FT)
“A Qatari investment group has bought a 38 per cent stake in Anya Hindmarch in a deal valuing the luxury handbag and accessories company’s equity at £70m.”

Techies Break a Fashion Taboo (NY Times)
“Despite the geek stereotypes of hoodie sweatshirts, flip-flops and thick glasses, it makes perfect sense, these women say, for people interested in technology to be intrigued by fashion. ‘Designing software and products isn’t all that different from the design of clothes,’ Ms. Mayer, 37, the new chief executive of Yahoo, said in an interview last February.”

China’s passion for fashion catapults blogger to stardom (Channel News Asia)
“Until recently Han Huohuo was just a twenty-something Chinese fashion blogger. Today, he enjoys front-row seats at European catwalk shows and rubs shoulders with the editor of Chinese Vogue.”

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4 August, 2012 | by BoF Team

Week in Review | François-Henri Pinault CEO Talk, Etienne Russo, The Man Repeller, Luxury Index falls

Week in Review July 30- August 3

BoF Exclusive | François-Henri Pinault, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer, PPR (CEO Talk)
“On the day of the official announcement of a major joint-venture between PPR and YOOX Group, BoF’s Imran Amed speaks to PPR chief executive officer François-Henri Pinault for a global exclusive interview on how the new partnership fits into Mr Pinault’s digital vision for PPR.”

Etienne Russo, Fashion Show Producer (The Creative Class)
“‘I’ve never had to knock on clients’ doors for a job, thank God!’ says Etienne Russo, knocking on the wooden table in front of him. But what might be construed as overconfidence is simply proof of an incredible success story.”

The Business of Blogging | The Man Repeller (Fashion 2.0)
“In April of 2010, Leandra Medine, then a 21-year-old journalism student living with her parents on Manhattan’s Upper East Side, launched a blog with a novel and quirky concept: The Man Repeller.”

Same Story, Different Month (Market Pulse)
“The Savigny Luxury Index (“SLI”) inched up 1.0 percent in June, relative to an uplift of 2.8 percent in the benchmark MSCI World Index (“MSCI”).  Newsflow from China continued to worry investors and sector results, although strong, did show signs of a slowdown in growth over the last few months.”

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3 August, 2012 | by Imran Amed, Editor

BoF Exclusive | CEO Talk – François-Henri Pinault, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer, PPR

François-Henri Pinault | Photo: Virgile Guinard

On the day of the official announcement of a major joint-venture between PPR and YOOX Group, BoF’s Imran Amed speaks to PPR chief executive officer François-Henri Pinault for a global exclusive interview on how the new partnership fits into Mr Pinault’s digital vision for PPR.

PARIS, France – Tucked away in the back of his office at the global headquarters of PPR on the Avenue Hoche in Paris, chairman and CEO François-Henri Pinault has a one dollar bill, framed, like one might see in a corner shop or deli to commemorate the first hard dollar the business has earned.

On closer inspection, however, Pinault’s dollar bill has a different meaning altogether. George Washington’s nose is covered with a big red dot, making the first US President look like a clown. Pinault says the dollar bill is there to help him keep his feet on the ground and remember that there is more to life than work and making money.

Clearly, Pinault is not your typical CEO. But that doesn’t mean he can’t have a grand vision for PPR. Indeed, PPR is a conglomerate in transition. Pinault is currently in the process of divesting FNAC, a multi-channel retailer of consumer electronics, books, music, and games, and Redcats, a group of 17 apparel and homewares brands, sold online and via catalogue. Having recently acquired Volcom, a California-based surf-and-skate line, for $607.5 million, and Brioni, an Italian luxury menswear label, reportedly for more than $400 million, Pinault’s focus is now firmly on luxury and lifestyle brands.

Pinault has also made digital a strategic, CEO-level priority.

To support this focus, PPR has inked a new joint venture agreement with YOOX Group, a global fashion e-tailer and technology partner, “to accelerate the e-commerce development of several PPR luxury brands,” including Bottega Veneta, Yves Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga and Sergio Rossi – but not the group’s luxury anchor, Gucci – according to a joint statement released today. The JV, in which PPR has a 51 percent share, is a key plank in Pinault’s strategy which aims for the group’s luxury and lifestyle brands to hit €1 billion in online turnover by 2020.

A self-proclaimed technology geek, Mr Pinault has enthusiastically immersed himself in the digital world. To wit, among various products by PPR brands like YSL and Balenciaga, Pinault has ‘fancied’ the Pebble e-paper smartwatch on social curation site The Fancy, where he is active and has more than 260,000 followers. Last year, he met the site’s founder Joseph Einhorn and promptly made a $10 million investment in the start-up.

Indeed, perhaps more than any other senior executive I have met in the global fashion industry, Pinault seems to genuinely relish the business opportunities created by the digital revolution.

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