GIANT-FORESTER

Crochet toy
pattern

Designer: Olga Krylova

Instagram: @fox_and_dog

JANUARY 2023
 My doll measures
about 36 cm (14
inches) (including hair).
MATERIALS
1. Yarn:
YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of skin color (number 07) - 1
skein;
Alize Cotton Gold yarn (100g/330m), tobacco brown color
YarnArt Jeans yarn can be
(number 690) - less than a half of a skein;
substituted with Alize
Alize Cotton Gold yarn (100g/330m) of dark brown color
Cotton Gold of matching
(number 26) - a half of a skein;
color and vice versa. But pay
attention, that Alize is a bit Gazzal Baby Cotton yarn (50g/165m) of light terracotta color
thinner (100g/330m) and it (number 3454) - 1 skein;
can affect the toy size. Pehorka Smesovaya (200g/200m), brown melange color
(number 517) - less than a half of a skein (for hair);
YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of chocolate color (number
Pay attention that in case 70) - a half of a skein (for the vest);
Alize Cotton Gold yarn (100g/330m) or YarnArt Jeans yarn
of using materials other
(50g/165m) of black color (number 60 and 53 accordingly) -
than listed, your toy size small amount (for belt);
will differ from mine. YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/165m) of cocoa color (number 71) -
just a little (for plaque and for lantern);
YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of copper brown color
(number 40) - 2 skeins (for coat);
Also the toy size depends
YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of pink color (number 78) -
largely on the technique
less than a half of a skein (for umbrella);
you crochet single crochet
Gazzal Jeans yarn (50g/170m) or YarnArt Jeans (50g/165m)
stitches (V-shaped sc, X- of light yellow color (numbers 1123 and 88 accordingly) - a
shaped sc, semi-X shaped small amount (for lantern);
sc). I give the information YarnArt Denim Washed yarn (50g/130m) of dark brown color
about differences between (number 917) to embroider eyebrows (you can use the same
these methods in the next yarn as you chose for hair).
page. 2. Mouline threads of black and white colors for face details (or
you can use a piece of yarn and divide it into separate threads).
3. 10 mm safety eyes.
My stitches have “semi-X”
4. Fiberfill for toys (hollow fiber).
shape. If you use the 5. 2 mm crochet hook Clover (or 1.75 mm of any other brand) -
technique which creates “V US 4.
shaped” stitches, then your 6. 1.5 mm copper wire for frame.
doll would probably be 7. Needle, scissors, pins.
bigger. 8. Stitch marker.
 9. Masking tape or adhesive tape for wrapping the wire.
10. Thick cardboard or plastic sheet for insoles.
11. Hard pastels for painting.
12. Strong thin thread Iris Spinning and Threading Plant n.a. Kirov
(Russia) for hair attachment (dental floss can be also used).
13. Wooden stick. The length depends on the doll’s height. I took
a length of 15 cm (for umbrella stick).
14. Transparent glue Moment Crystal.

YARN FOR HAIR

Choosing the yarn for hair was one of the most uneasy and
at the same time the most exiting tasks. I wanted to create
an effect of tousled hair. At first I planned to use a boucle
yarn Alize Naturale Boucle, but couldn’t find the needed
color. Therefore I decided to pick the thick yarn and to
divide its strand into separate threads to make the hair to be
Pehorka Smesovaya, curled.
color 517
You can do the same or to experiment with boucle yarn. The
yarn I used is shown in the photo on the left side (Pehorka
Smesovaya). And also you can see the variants you can also
use for substitution. Pay attention, that some of them are
evenly coloured in brown and other skeins are melange.
Bernat Softy Chunky,
color 6020

Alize Naturale Boucle, Drops Alaska mix, YarnArt Alpine Drop Andes, color
color 6020 color 50 Alpaca, color 431 5619
 The way you crochet
your stitches play an
V AND X SHAPED STITCHES
important role. My Single crochet stitches can have a shape of “V” or “X”. The
stitches have a semi-X shape our stitches get depends on the way we grab the
shape.
working thread when crocheting.
When you work in “yarn
over technique”, your «V-shape (Yarn over technique)». This way is counted as a
crochet pattern becomes classic one. In this case we insert the hook into the stitch
more smooth, and the (photo 1) and you place your hook under the yarn (photo 2).
fabric will be more And pull the yarn over the hook from back to front (photo
stretchy. 3). Then pull the yarn in the same way (photo 4) and finish

the stitch.

When you do “yarn under”,

«X-shape (Yarn under technique)». In this case we insert
the fabric becomes more
the hook into the stitch (photo 5) and place your hook over
relief and dense because of
the yarn (photo 6). Pull the yarn through (photo 7). Then pull
twisting the loops.
the yarn one more time in the same way (photo 8) and finish

the stitch.

Photo 1. Photo 2. Photo 3. Photo 4.

Photo 5. Photo 6. Photo 7. Photo 8.

My stitches have a “semi-X” shape. I start to crochet a stitch like in the yarn under technique (photo
6), then pull the thread and grab the yarn for the second time like in yarn over technique (photo 4).
 Difficulty level is upper
ABBREVIATIONS
intermediate. MR - magic ring
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
This pattern doesn’t include any dc - double crochet
crochet lessons. It’s supposed dec - decrease
inc - increase
that you know how to crochet sl st - slip stitch столбик
basic stitches.
(..)*n - repeat the combination in
parentheses n times
(x) - at the end of every round I write a
The materials of this pattern total number of stitches in parentheses
are copyrighted. Copying, In this pattern we use US terminology.

sharing, reselling this document

of its parts are prohibited.

Notes:

The toy pieces are crocheted in a

spiral without making a turning
chain (until otherwise stated).

For working at this toy I use invisible decreases:

I insert the crochet hook into the front loop of
the first stitch, don’t pull the thread and at once
insert the hook into both loops of the second
stitch, pull the thread through all stitches on the
hook.

 ABOUT LEGS
Want to pay your attention to one important moment,
which often causes difficulties in understanding.

When we will crochet legs, we will call them as «the left

leg» and «the right leg». You should understand that
along with this we are oriented towards our doll. The
left leg is the one that is located on the left side
towards the doll. But if we look to the doll’s face, it is
located on the right side towards you.

Analogically with the right leg. The right leg is the one
that is located on the right side towards the doll. If we
look to the doll’s face, it is located on the left side
towards you.

Hope this clarification helps you not to get confused

when crocheting the legs.

Happy crocheting!
INSTRUCTIONS
Let’s start making our
kind giant!
 ARMS
Make two identical pieces. The arms are crocheted separately and
then joined as we crochet the body. Stuff the arms as you go and
not very tight. Start crocheting with the yarn of skin color in a
spiral, use a 2 mm crochet hook Clover (or 1.75 mm of any other
brand).
1.
Prepare a wireframe for arms. The length of each piece of wire
should be about 22 cm. Bend one of the piece ends, forming a
loop (about 1 cm). Wrap with masking tape or with adhesive tape
(photos 1-2).

At first make a thumb:

1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2-3 rounds: 6sc (6) - 2 rounds
Cut the thread and fasten off.

Main piece. Start in skin color:

1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2 round: 6inc (12)
3 round: (inc, 1sc)*6 (18)
4-8 rounds: 18sc (18) - 5 rounds
2. 9 round: 3sc along the thumb and the main piece at the same
time, 15sc along the main piece (18)
10 round: 3sc along the rest stitches of the thumb, 15sc along the
main piece (18)
11 round: (4sc, dec)*3 (15)

Stuff slightly. Insert the wire and continue crocheting around it,
stuff as you go.
12-13 rounds: 15sc (15) - 2 rounds
Change the thread color to terracotta. Cut the thread of skin
3. color and fasten off.

4. 5. 6.
 14 round: (4sc, inc)*3 (18)
15 round: into back loops only 18sc (18)
16-41 rounds: 18sc (18) - 26 rounds

Fold the arm in half and work several additional sc needed to

shift the thumb to the arm side (for the right and for the left
arm). Cut the thread and fasten off.

Return to round 14, attach the thread of terracotta color to the

front loop and crochet the cuffs. Hold the arm with the hand
facing down. Make ch and crochet according to the
instructions:

7 1-5 rounds: 18sc (18) - 5 rounds

Work several additional sc to finish the work right above the

thumb. Fold the cuffs down towards the hand.

Cut the thread and fasten off. Weave in the thread tails inside
of the piece.

LEGS
Start crocheting the first leg with the yarn of tabacco color
(it will be the left leg for the doll). Make ch13, from the
8. second ch from the hook:

1 round: inc, 10sc, 4sc into 1 stitch, 10sc, inc (into the first
stitch, where we have already worked the first increase in
the round) (28)
2 round: 2inc, 10sc, 4inc, 10sc, 2inc (36)
3 round: (1sc, inc)*2, 10sc, (inc, 1sc)*2, (1sc, inc)*2, 10sc,
(inc, 1sc)*2 (44)
4 round: (2sc, inc)*2, 10sc, (inc, 2sc)*2, (2sc, inc)*2, 10sc,
(inc, 2sc)*2 (52) - photo 8

Take a piece of cardboard or plastic sheet, place the sole on

it and draw an outline around. Cut two pieces. We will use
9. these two insoles to strengthen the legs. Cut about 2 mm
from the piece edge, so that we are able to insert them into
the feet (photo 9).
 5-6 rounds: into back loops only 52sc (52) - 2 rounds
7-9 rounds: 13sc, 26hdc, 13sc (52) - 3 rounds
How to work double crochet decreases:
Check for the marker location. It should be located
Crochet into front loops only. Yarn over,
insert the hook into the front loop of exactly in the middle of the heel.
the first stitch, pull the thread, then
In the next rounds we will make decreases to form the
yarn over, insert the hook into the
front loop of the next stitch, pull the foot. If the marker isn’t located at the necessary point,
thread and pull it through all loops on then the foot won’t get the right shape. Insert the
the hook. cardboard insole.

10 round: 13sc, (dc dec, 2hdc)*6, dc dec, 13sc (45)

11 round: 13sc, (1hdc, dc dec)*6, 1hdc, 13sc (39)
12 round: 13sc, 7dc dec, 12sc (32)

Advice: hold the tight tension when working hdc and

dc stitches! Otherwise there will be holes formed
between the stitches, and the fiberfill will be seen
through them.

13 round: (2sc, dec)*8 (24) - when crocheting the last stitch

10. change the thread color to dark brown
Cut the thread of tabacco brown color and fasten off.
14 round: into back loops only 24sc (24)

Prepare the frame for the legs. Take a copper wire and
measure two pieces with the length of about 36 cm (the doll
size). These pieces will be placed into the feet, will go across
the whole length of the legs, across the body and the neck,
and a part of them will be located inside of the doll’s head.
Bend one end on both pieces forming a loop (about 1 cm).
11.
Wrap about 15 cm of each piece with a masking tape or
with adhesive tape. This part will be located inside of the
legs till the point where the wire pieces will be joined and
twisted inside of the body. Now bend the wire end with the
loop at the right angle (about 2 cm).

Insert the wire into the foot and stuff it, continue crocheting
and stuff as you go.

12.
 15-18 rounds: 24sc (24) - 4 rounds
19 round: (5sc, inc)*4 (28)
20-21 rounds: 28sc (28) - 2 rounds

Cut the thread and fasten off. Now we are going to crochet
the trouser leg. Take the thread of dark brown color and
attach it to the front loop of round 13 exactly in the middle
(photo 12). Hold the leg with the wire facing out from you.
13. Make ch and crochet according to the pattern. The next
round will be the first round of the trouser leg.

1 round: (2sc, inc)*8 (32)

2-3 rounds: 32sc (32) - 2 rounds

After the third round make sl st into the next stitch. Make ch
and turn the work. Crochet in the opposite direction, skipping
ch:

14. 4 round: into front loops only 32sc, sl st into ch, make ch,
turn the work (32)
5 round: into back loops only 32sc (32)
There should be a fold of the trouser leg formed, like in the
photo 13.

Skip ch and crochet the next rounds in a spiral:

6 round: (15sc, inc)*2 (34)

7 round: 34sc (34)
8 round: (15sc, dec)*2 (32)
15. 9 round: (dec, 6sc)*4 (28)
10-13 rounds: 28sc (28) - 4 rounds
14 round: crochet through the outer and inner layers of the
leg at the same time, joining the pieces (photo 15): 28sc (28)
15- 27 rounds: 28sc (28) - 13 rounds

Crochet several sc additionally to finish crocheting at the

needed point on the inner side of the leg (at the point where
the leg will be joined with the other one). I shifted this point
closer to the heel, so that the toes are facing to the sides
16. after joining.
10.
17. 18. 19.

Crochet the second leg according to the same pattern, but

20. don’t cut the thread. Place both legs near each other and
compare their length. If the first leg is longer, then add one
more round. If both legs have the same length, then start
joining them.

BODY
Now we are going to join the legs and crochet the body. Stuff
firmly as you go. Make ch7 and insert the hook into the next
stitch on the first leg. Crochet 14sc and place marker. The
21. next round will be the first round of the body.

1 round: 14sc, 7sc along the chain, 28sc, 7sc along the chain,
14sc (70)
2 round: 14sc, inc, 5sc, inc, 28sc, inc, 5sc, inc, 14sc (74)
3 round: 5sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 7sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 8sc, inc,
7sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 5sc (82)
4-8 rounds: 82sc (82) - 5 rounds
9 round: 15sc, inc, 9sc, inc, 56sc (84)
10-21 rounds: 84sc (84) - 12 rounds - when crocheting the
last stitch change the thread color to terracotta
22.
22-23 rounds: 84sc (84) - 2 rounds
24 round: into back loops only 84sc (84)
25-28 rounds: 84sc (84) - 4 rounds

Stuff the brown part of the body tight enough. Pay special
attention to the lower part the body, to the sides and to the
belly.
 24.
Pay attention to the folds,
which were formed between
the legs after we have joined
them. The areas, marked with
arrows, should be stuffed
firmly enough to make the
fabric even.

Check the marker location. It should be located exactly in the

23. middle of the body side. In the next round we will form
decreases to form the belly.
25.
29 round: 7sc, dec, (11sc, dec)*2, 49sc (81)
30-34 rounds: 81sc (81) - 5 rounds
35 round: (8sc, dec)*3, 51sc (78)
36-46 rounds: 78sc (78) - 11 rounds

Unravel or crochet a couple of stitches additionally so that the

arms are located symmetrically at the body sides, according to
the pattern: 7 stitches - for the first arm, 34 stitches - for the
front side, 7 stitches - for the second arm, 30 stitches - for
26. the back side. Place marker. Pay attention, that the thumb
should be facing forward.

47 round: 7sc along the body and the inner side of the first
arm, 34sc along the front side of the body, 7sc along the body
and the inner side of the second arm, 30sc along the back
side (78)

48 round: 11sc along the outer side of the first arm, 34sc
along the front side of the body, 11sc along the outer side of
27. the second arm, 30sc along the back side (86)

49-50 rounds: 86sc (86) - 2 rounds

Form the wire frame. Bend both wire ends towards each other
and then twist them around the main frame.
28. Wrap the part of the wireframe with a masking tape or
adhesive tape (the part which will be located inside of the
neck).

51 round: (10sc, dec, 9sc, dec)*2, 10sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 8sc, dec,
7sc, dec (78)
52 round: (4sc, dec)*13 (65)
53 round: 65sc (65)

Crochet several sc additionally to shift the stitch marker to the

29.
middle of the arm.

54 round: 4sc, dec, 21sc, dec, 8sc, dec, (9sc, dec)*2, 4sc (60)
55 round: (2sc, dec, 2sc)*10 (50)

56 round: 50sc (50)

57 round: (3sc, dec)*10 (40)
58 round: 40sc (40)
59 round: (2sc, dec)*10 (30)
60 round: 30sc (30)
61 round: (1sc, dec)*10 (20) - when crocheting the last stitch
change the thread color to skin

62 round: into back loops only 20sc (20)

30. 63 round: (dec, 8sc)*2 (18)
64-66 rounds: 18sc (18) - 3 rounds
Cut the thread and fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

Return to round 23 and attach the thread of terracotta color

to the front loop exactly in the middle of the back side of the
body. Make ch and crochet holding the body with the legs
facing out from you.

31. 1 round: 84sc (84)

In the next round we will make increases at the body sides.
2 round: 20sc, inc, 41sc, inc, 21sc (86)
3-8 rounds: 86sc (86) - 6 rounds

Finish crocheting making sl st into the next stitch. Cut the

thread and fasten off. Weave in the thread tail.
 HEAD
Crochet with the yarn of skin color.

1 round: 6sc in MR (6) 29 round: (5sc, dec, 5sc)*6 (66)

2 round: 6inc (12) 30 round: (9sc, dec)*6 (60)
3 round: (1sc, inc)*6 (18) 31 round: (4sc, dec, 4sc)*6 (54)
4 round: (2sc, inc)*6 (24) 32 round: (7sc, dec)*6 (48)
5 round: (3sc, inc)*6 (30) 33 round: (3sc, dec, 3sc)*6 (42)
6 round: (2sc, inc, 2sc)*6 (36) 34 round: (5sc, dec)*6 (36)
7 round: (5sc, inc)*6 (42) 35 round: (2sc, dec, 2sc)*6 (30)
8 round: (3sc, inc, 3sc)*6 (48) 36 round: (3sc, dec)*6 (24)
9 round: (7sc, inc)*6 (54) 37 round: (2sc, dec)*6 (18)
10 round: (4sc, inc, 4sc)*6 (60)
11 round: (9sc, inc)*6 (66)
12 round: (5sc, inc, 5sc)*6 (72)
32.
13-28 rounds: 72sc (72) - 16 rounds

Insert the safety eyes between rounds 20 and 21, the

distance between these points where the eye stems are
inserted is 14 stitches.

33.

Cut the thread and fasten off, add fiberfill.

 34. NEEDLE SCULPTING
..3 4..
For needle sculpting use the thread of the same color which
was used for the body. Thread the needle and insert it into
point 1 (at the lower part of the head under the chin). This
point is located between the last and the second-to-last rounds
2 5

1..6
on the head. Pull the thread out from point 2 (near the eye),
leaving a thread tail to tie a knot later (photo 35).

Then insert the needle into point 3, leaving 3 rounds up from

point 2, and run it inside of the piece to the point 4 (near the
other eye). Pull the thread (photo 36). Now insert the needle
35. into point 5 (leaving 3 rounds down) and pull the thread out
from point 6 (point 6 is located leaving one stitch to the right
from point 1).

Pull thread tails carefully, so that the eyes were slightly pushed
into the head fabric.

After this tie the thread tails with 1-2 tigh knots. Thread the
needle with tails and weave in them inside of the doll’s head.
Our needle sculpting is finished.
36.

37.
38. FACE DETAILS
Eye whites. Take a piece of the white yarn and embroider
three stitches around the outer side of each eye, like in photo
38. Fasten off the white thread and weave in inside of the
head.

Eyelids. Pull the thread of skin color close to the eye above it,
make a diagonal stitch with the length of 4 stitches, insert the
needle, skipping 1 stitch from the white stitch somewhere in
the middle of the eye. The eyelid should cover the top edge of
39. the eye slightly and touch the white stitches. Make one more
stitch to make the eyelid wider. Embroider 2-3 horizontal
stitches under the eye, like in photo 40, to form the lower
eyelid.

Eyelashes. Now take the black sewing thread or divide a piece

of black yarn into separate threads. Embroider a thin line of
eyelashes under the eyelid (photo 42).

40. 41. 42.

Eyebrows. Take the thread of YarnArt Denim Washed yarn of

43. dark brown color or use the yarn you prepared for hair. At first
embroider the thick part of the eyebrow, leaving 2 rounds up
from the eyes and making three horizontal stitches with the
length of 4 stitches. Then embroider two more stitches, like in
photo 43. And make one more stitch from the wide part of the
eyebrow to the corner, marked with the arrow in the photo.

Photo 44 shows what we should have got.

44. NOSE
Crochet with the yarn of skin color.

1 round: 6sc in MR (6)

2 round: 3inc, 3sc (9)
Crochet 2sc more additionally and place marker.
3 round: inc, 1sc, 2hdc inc, 1sc, inc, 3sc (13)

Cut the thread and fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
45.
Place a nose between the eyes in the way that the upper
point (the first hdc inc) is located one round higher from the
upper lid. Sew, adding some fiberfill. Weave in the thread tail
inside of the piece.

EARS
46. Ears are not necessary to make, they are optional. They will
be hidden after the hair attaching. Crochet in skin color.

The right ear:

Form a MR and crochet starting from it, make ch3, crochet
into the magic ring: 2dc, 2hdc, 2sc, pull the ring closed, cut
the thread, leaving a tail for sewing.

The left ear:

Form a MR and crochet mirrored: 2sc, 2hdc, 2dc, ch3, join
with MR with sl st, pull the ring closed, cut the thread, leaving
47. a tail for sewing.

Fix the ears on the head, leaving 7 stitches from the eyes.
Sew. Weave in the thread tails inside of the head.
48. HAIR ATTACHING
You can attach the hair at this stage or when all the clothes are
ready and the head is sewn. For hair attachment you will need a
strong thin thread, a needle (I use Iris yarn), and a thick yarn of
dark melange color, you have prepared for hair.

I use Pehorka Smesovaya yarn, dividing it into separate threads.

You should divide this yarn very carefully, trying not to damage
the fibres.
Cut the yarn into pieces. The length should be equal to the hair
length, multiplied by two (about 40 cm). I got each piece with
49. the length of about 20 cm*2. You can make the pieces a bit
longer, so that you can trim them after attachment.

Take a strong thread and attach it to the head top. Form a loop,
inserting a needle again into the same point, where the thread
goes from (photo 49). Skip 3 stitches and run the needle out, pull
the thread. We have formed a loop (photo 50). Take one piece
of yarn, insert it into the loop, like in the photo (photo 51), and
pull the thread in the way that the thread is hidden between the
stitches (photos 52-53).
50.
Attach each hair strand, leaving 3 stitches from the previous
one. Continue attaching in rounds. As I use the yarn which is
thick enough, I leave the distance between the hair strands - 2
rounds on the top and 3 rounds on the head back (the hair on
the head back is attached only if desired).

51. 52. 53.

 If you use a thinner yarn, then I recommend to leave 1-2
stitches between the hair strands on the top and to attach the
hair to each round or to every second round. Just look how
voluminous you want to get your hair. After finishing each
round, divide the hair strands into separate threads (photo 54).

Attach the hair to 4 rounds on the head top. The width of the
forehead from the eyebrows to the hairline should equal 7
54. rounds. Now continue attaching the hair around the face,
leaving 2 stitches to the side from the eyebrows and the eyes
(photo 55). You can mark the hairline with pins so you can be
guided with them. Attach the hair for the beard, leaving 7
rounds down from the nose. I got 2 rounds with the hair
strands on the head sides and 1 rounds along the chin.

After this attach several hair strands more under the nose
forming a moustache.

Spread the hair and look if you are satisfied with the volume. If
55. you want you can continue attaching the hair on the head
back, leaving a bigger distance than on the head top. I didn’t do
it, because my hairstyle is already too voluminous.

Trim the hair and make a hairstyle. Now the head is fully
finished, but we will sew it only when all the clothes are ready.

56. 57.

57 58. 59.
Our giant is almost ready!
Let’s make a vest and a
coat for him!
 Pay attention! VEST
If your doll’s waist
circumference turned out Crochet with the yarn of chocolate color. The vest is
longer than mine (my giant has crocheted from top to bottom in turning rows. Make
28 cm around the widest ch and turn the work after each row.
part), then take a 2.5 mm or
2.25 mm crochet hook. And try Make ch29 and crochet from the second ch from the
the clothes as you crochet.
hook:

1 row: 2inc, (2sc, inc)*7, 3sc, 2inc, ch, turn (39)

60. 2 row: inc, 11sc, inc, 13sc, inc, 11sc, inc, ch, turn (43)
3 row: (inc, 5sc)*7, inc, ch, turn (51)
4 row: (inc, 6sc)*3, inc, 7sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*3, ch, turn (59)
5 row: (inc, 7sc)*3, inc, 9sc, inc, (7sc, inc)*3, ch, turn (67)

Try the piece on the body, placing it like in photos 60-61.

The distance between two foreparts should be about 7
stitches.

6 row: (inc, 8sc)*2, (inc, 9sc)*3, (inc, 8sc)*2, inc, ch, turn (75)
7 row: inc, 73sc, inc, ch, turn (77)
61. Now we will crochet two foreparts and the back part
separately. Cut the thread.

The first forepart

1-2 rows: 12sc, ch, turn (12) - 2 rows
3 row: 11sc, inc, ch, turn (13)
4 row: inc, 12sc, ch, turn (14)
5 row: 13sc, inc, ch, turn (15)
6 row: inc, 14sc, ch, turn (16)
7-24 rows: 16sc, ch, turn (16) - 18 rows
62. Don’t make ch after row 24, cut the thread and fasten off.

Now return to row 7 on the top part and skip 12 stitches

from the first forepart. Attach the thread to the 13th stitch,
make ch.
 Back side
1-2 rows: 29sc, ch, turn (29) - 2 rows
3 row: inc, 27sc, inc, ch, turn (31)
4 row: inc, 29sc, inc, ch, turn (33)
5 row: inc, 31sc, inc, ch, turn (35)
6 row: inc, 33sc, inc, ch, turn (37)
7-14 rows: 37sc, ch, turn (37) - 8 rows
15 row: inc, 35sc, inc, ch, turn (39)
16-24 rows: 39sc, ch, turn (39) - 9 rows
63. Don’t make ch after the last row, cut the thread, leaving a long
tail for sewing.

The second forepart

Return to row 7 on the top part and skip 12 stitches from the
back side, attach the thread to the 13th stitch, make ch.
1-2 rows: 12sc, ch, turn (12) - 2 rows
3 row: inc, 11sc, ch, turn (13)
4 row: 12sc, inc, ch, turn (14)
5 row: inc, 13sc, ch, turn (15)
6 row: 14sc, inc, ch, turn (16)
64.
7-24 rows: 16sc, ch, turn (16) - 18 rows

Don’t make ch after the last row, cut the thread, leaving a long
tail for sewing.

Make side seams, joining the foreparts with the back side. Then
attach the thread to one of the corners on the vest bottom and
crochet sc around the piece.

65.

66. 67. 68.

 Belt
69. Crochet in black color. Make ch123. Wrap the chain around
the toy’s belly to make sure its length is enough. The length of
the belt should be about 1.5 of the belly circumference.
Crochet from the second ch from the hook:

1 row: inc, 120sc, inc, ch, turn (124)

2 row: dec, 120sc, dec (122)
Cut the thread and fasten off, weave in the thread tail.

Belt loops
Make 4 identical pieces (photo 71). Make ch11 and crochet
70. from the second ch from the hook 10sc. Cut the thread,
leaving a thread tail for sewing.

Sew the loops to the vest with the wrong side facing outside,
placing two of them to the front foreparts and two other ones
to the back side. My loops are located in the way that the
lower edge of the pieces is located between rows 3 and 4, and
the top one - between rows 9 and 10 (count from the vest
bottom, including the row we crocheted around).

After this run the belt through the loops and find the location
71. for a plaque. Attach the thread of cocoa color and crochet 5sc
along the top edge of the belt, make ch4, work 5sc along the
lower edge of the belt, make ch4 again and join with slip
stitch into the point, from where we have started. Cut the
thread and weave in the thread tail. Now run one belt end
through both chains of the plaque to fasten it.

The vest is finished!

72. 73. 74.

75. COAT
Crochet in copper brown color in turning rows. The coat is
crocheted from top to bottom in turning rows. Make ch and turn
the work after each row. If you crocheted the vest with the hook
of larger size, then use it. Make ch29, crochet from the 2nd ch
from the hook:

1 row: inc, 1sc, (2sc, inc)*7, 4sc, inc, ch, turn (37)
2 row: (inc, 4sc)*3, inc, 5sc, (inc, 4sc)*3, inc, ch, turn (45)
3 row: (inc, 5sc)*3, inc, 7sc, (inc, 5sc)*3, inc, ch, turn (53)
76. 4 row: (inc, 6sc)*3, inc, 9sc, (inc, 6sc)*3, inc, ch, turn (61)
5 row: (inc, 7sc)*3, inc, 11sc, (inc, 7sc)*3, inc, ch, turn (69)
6 row: inc, 67sc, inc, ch, turn (71)
7 row: (inc, 8sc)*3, inc, 15sc, (inc, 8sc)*3, inc, ch, turn (79)
8-9 rows: 79sc, ch, turn (79) - 2 rows
10 row: inc, 77sc, inc, ch, turn (81)
11 row: 14sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 29sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 14sc, ch, turn
(85)
12 row: inc, 83sc, inc, ch, turn (87)
13 row: 16sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 31sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 16sc, ch, turn
(91)
77. 14 row: inc, 89sc, inc, ch, turn (93)

In the next row we will form the openings for sleeves.

15 row: 16sc, make ch10, skip 14 stitches, from the next stitch
33sc, make ch10, skip 14 stitches, from the next stitch 16sc, ch,
turn (85) - photos 76-77
16 row: inc, 15sc, 10sc along the chain, 33sc, 10sc along the
chain, 15sc, inc, ch, turn (87)
17-18 rows: 87sc, ch, turn (87) - 2 rows
19 row: inc, 85sc, inc, ch, turn (89)
78. 20-21 rows: 89sc, ch, turn (89) - 2 rows
22 row: inc, 87sc, inc, ch, turn (91)
23 row: 19sc, inc, 9sc, inc, 31sc, inc, 9sc, inc,
19sc, ch, turn (95)
24 row: 95sc, ch, turn (95)
25 row: inc, 93sc, inc, ch, turn (97)
26-27 rows: 97sc, ch, turn (97) - 2 rows
28 row: inc, 95sc, inc, ch, turn (99)
 29 row: 22sc, inc, 9sc, inc, 33sc, inc, 9sc, inc, 22sc, ch, turn (103)
79. 30-31 rows: 103sc, ch, turn (103) - 2 rows
32 row: inc, 101sc, inc, ch, turn (105)
33-34 rows: 105sc, ch, turn (105) - 2 rows
35 row: inc, 103sc, inc, ch, turn (107)
36-38 rows: 107sc, ch, turn (107) - 3 rows
39 row: inc, 105sc, inc, ch, turn (109)
40-42 rows: 109sc, ch, turn (109) - 3 rows
43 row: inc, 107sc, inc, ch, turn (111)
44-46 rows: 111sc, ch, turn (111) - 3 rows
47 row: inc, 109sc, inc, ch, turn (113)
80. 48-51 rows: 113sc, ch, turn (113) - 4 rows
52 row: inc, 111sc, inc, ch, turn (115)
53-55 rows: 115sc, ch, turn (115) - 3 rows
Don’t cut the thread and continue crocheting sc along the
forepart edges and along the neckline. Work 3sc into each corner
of the forepart bottom. Cut the thread and fasten off.

Sleeves
Attach the thread to the lower side of the opening and make ch,
then crochet along the right side around the opening 26sc (10sc
81. along the lower side, 1sc at the corner, 14sc along the top, 1sc at
the corner).
Crochet 22 turning rows more, 26sc in each row. Work sl st into
the turning ch at the end of the row and turn the work, make ch
and crochet in reverse direction. Try the coat on the doll. If the
sleeves are short, then add several additional rows.
After row 23 cut the thread and fasten off. Weave in the thread
tails on the wrong side of the piece.
Crochet the second sleeve in the same way.

Pockets (2 pc)
Make ch14 and crochet from the second ch from the hook:
1-12 rows: 13sc, ch, turn (13) - 12 rows
Cut the thread and fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing (photo
79).
Place the pockets on the foreparts, leaving 9 rows up from the
coat bottom and 9 stitches from the forepart edge (till the lower
edge of the pocket) (photo 80). Sew. Weave in all the thread tails
on the wrong side of the piece.
82. Put the head to the doll’s neck in the way that the eyes
are looking straight. Sew the head. When sewing insert
the needle between stitches and go over the stitch body
and over the stitch on the neck. Make sure the thread
doesn’t pick the hair. Add fiberfill if needed.

PAINTING
You can paint the face of your forester if you want: add
blushes to the cheeks and under the lower lids.

83. For painting you can use hard pastels or decorative

cosmetics and a brush.

Paint the cheeks with any pink color you like, add dark
tint to the area above the lower eyelids.

84.
Yay! We dressed our forester up! If the forepart
edges are bent, then you can carefully iron them.
85.
Main part
LANTERN
At first crochet the windows. Start in cocoa color. When
changing the color cut the thread of the previous color and
fasten off. Make ch21, crochet from the second ch from the
hook:

1 row: 20sc, ch, turn (20) - when crocheting the last stitch
change the thread color to light yellow
2 row: into front loops only 20sc, ch, turn (20)
86. 3-9 rows: into both loops 20sc, ch, turn (20) - 7 rows, when
crocheting the last stitch change the thread color to cocoa
10 row: into front loops only 20sc, ch, turn (20) - when
crocheting the last stitch change the thread color to light
yellow
11 row: into back loops only 20sc, ch, turn (20)
12-18 rows: into both loops 20sc, ch, turn (20) - 7 rows, when
crocheting the last stitch change the thread color to cocoa
19 row: into back loops only 20sc, ch, turn (20) - when
crocheting the last stitch change the thread color to light
yellow
87. 20 row: into front loops only 20sc, ch, turn (20)
21-27 rows: 20sc, ch, turn (20) - 7 rows, when crocheting the
last stitch change the thread color to cocoa
28 row: into front loops only 20sc, ch, turn (20) - when
crocheting the last stitch change the thread color to light
yellow
29 row: into back loops only 20sc, ch, turn (20)
30-36 rows: 20sc, ch, turn (20) - 7 rows
Cut the thread and fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

Cut 4 triangles from cardboard, their size should equal the

88. size of the yellow windows. We will use these pieces to
strengthen the walls of the lantern.

Sew two sides, like photo 88 shows, inserting the needle into
the edge loop of the stitches of light yellow color and into
the stitch on the cocoa color.
 The top and the lower parts
89. These pieces are identical. At first make one of them. The
second part should be made after we join the the first one with
the main piece.

Make ch11 and crochet from the second ch from the hook:
1-10 rows: 10sc, ch, turn (10) - 10 rows
Don’t cut the thread (photo 89).

Take the main piece, place the cocoa piece on it and crochet sc
through both layers, working 3sc into each corner (photo 90).
90. Hold the piece with the windows facing downwards. Leave all
the thread tails at the inner side. Then cut the thread and
fasten off. Weave in the thread tail inside of the piece.

When we joined the main piece and the top part, insert 4
cardboard pieces and stuff. Don’t add too much fiberfill not to
distort the walls.

Make the lower part of te lantern (according to the same

pattern as the top part). Join with the main piece in the same
way, working sc through both layers and adding fiberfill.
91.
Cylinder on the top part
Crochet in cocoa color.
1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2 round: 6inc (12)
3 round: (1sc, inc)*6 (18)

92. 93. 94.

 95. 4 round: 18sc (18)
5 round: into back loops only 18sc (18)
6-7 rounds: 18sc (18) - 2 rounds
Cut the thread and fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Now
attach the thread to the front loop of round 4 and crochet one
round of slip stitches. Hold the piece with the hollow part
facing up. Sew the piece to the center of the top side.

Handle
Attach the thread of cocoa color to the middle on one of he
sides and make ch35. Join it with the middle point on the
96. opposite side. Fasten off the thread, cut. Weave in the thread
tails inside of the lantern.

Now we need to embroider thin lines inside of the windows.

Take a long thread of cocoa color and divide it in half.
Embroider the lines along each side of the window, leaving one
round from the edge, use two threads. Weave in the thread
tails inside of the lantern.

97.

r e a d y!
n t e r n is n go
a a
Our l our giant Dark
Now n to the
eve forest.
 Our gia
and Wi nt studied at
not allo zardry, but w the School o
wed to as unfa f Witch
his mag d o magic i r l y expel craft
ic , led
someti wand in this but the fores . He is
mes bre cute um ter hid
aks the
restrict brella and
ion :)
98. UMBRELLA
Canopy
Crochet with the yarn of pink color:
1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2 round: 6inc (12)
3-4 rounds: 12sc (12) - 2 rounds
5 round: (inc, 1sc)*6 (18)
6-7 rounds: 18sc (18) - 2 rounds
8 round: (1sc, 2inc)*6 (30)
9 round: 30sc (30)
10 round: (2sc, 2inc, 1sc)*6 (42)
11 round: 42sc (42)
12 round: (3sc, 2inc, 2sc)*6 (54)
13 round: 54sc (54)
99. 14 round: (4sc, 2inc, 3sc)*6 (66)
15 round: 66sc (66)
16 round: (5sc, 2inc, 4sc)*6 (78)
17 round: 78sc (78)
18 round: (6sc, 2inc, 5sc)*6 (90)
19 round: 90sc (90)
20 round: (7sc, 2inc, 6sc)*6 (102)
21 round: 102sc (102)
22 round: (8sc, 2inc, 7sc)*6 (114)
23 round: 114sc (114)
24 round: (9sc, 2inc, 8sc)*6 (126)
25 round: 126sc (126)
26 round: (10sc, 2inc, 9sc)*6 (138)
27 round: 138sc (138)
100.
Finish with slip stitch into the next stitch. Cut the
thread, leaving a long thread tail for sewing the folds.

Now make a brown end tip. I crocheted it in tabacco

brown color.
1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2-4 rounds: 6sc (6) - 3 rounds
Cut the thread, leaving a tail for sewing. Sew to the
canopy center.
 Shaft
101. Prepare a wooden stick, the yarn of tabacco brown color and
Moment Crystal glue. Measure the length from the hand tip till
the floor. The length of your stick should equal this distance.
My stick is 15 cm long.

Apply the glue to the stick and wind the yarn thread around it
(photo 101).
Add some glue into the deepening of the canopy and insert
the stick, press with your fingers.

After this form several folds on the canopy, like photo 103
102. shows, and sew them with the pink thread (photo 104). You
can also sew the smaller folds on the top and make several
stitches with the length of 2-3 cm to the end tip.

Add some more glue carefully into the opening between the
shaft and the folds and press with your fingers until the glue
sets.
Our umbrella is ready!
103. 104. 105.

106. 107. 108.

Congratulations! Our kind forester is ready!
He is open-hearted and he is always happy
to offer to friends a tea in his cosy house!
✨
I hope you enjoyed making this forester with me! ☺️I will be very grateful if you
leave me a feedback on Etsy. Please tag me @fox_and_dog as the designer of the
pattern when publishing photos of your wonderful dolls.

And there are my other witches and their friend, a good elf. You may
probably love them too✨

The free pattern for the Golden

Stitch can be found in the feed of
my Instagram account.

Just tap on this icon

to find it.
CONTACT ME IN ANY CONVENIENT WAY. MY STORES:
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Olga Krylova @fox_and_dog
Fox_and_dog
Page: Fox&Dog - Crochet World
email: olechkaartemjeva@gmail.com