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Coats Stitches and Seams
Coats Stitches and Seams
Sewing Solutions
Rotary hook
B
Multi needle lockstitch and
chainstitch
401 – Chainstitch
Zig Zag Stitch – Stitch types
304 and 404
A
B
Looper
C
B
Derivatives of the 401 chainstitch are the For seaming, stitch type 504 three thread
chainstitch coverseam stitch formations. The overedge is commonly used. Because the
most common of these is the 406 twin movements of the sewing machine are short
needle coverseam. This stitch type is formed high machine speeds are achievable
using two needle threads and one looper resulting in high productivity. This stitch type
thread and its main uses are hemming of also delivers excellent seam elongation and
garments made from knitted fabric and high strength.
elastic/lace attaching on underwear and
lingerie.
stitch A
A1
C
A
1
B
B
1 Stitch type 602 is the same as stitch type
406 but with the addition of a top covering
This stitch type is formed simultaneously thread.
using one row of stitch type 401 and one
row of 503.
606 – Flatlock
516 – Five Thread full safety
RATIO OF THREAD
STITCH CONSUMPTION PER No. OF NEEDLE TO UNDER
DESCRIPTION
TYPE UNIT OF SEAM NEEDLES THREAD RATIO
LENGTH
Two thread
301 2.5 : 1 1 1:1
lockstitch
Two thread
401 5.5 : 1 1 1:3
chainstitch
Two thread
503 12 : 1 1 1.2 : 1
overedge
Three thread
504 14 : 1 1 1:5
overedge
Four thread
515 17.5 : 1 2 1 : 1.4
overedge
Five thread
516 20 : 1 2 1 : 3.4
overedge
Seaming Seams
The sewing threads work together in the A seam can be defined as a series of
seam and should be applied at the lightest stitches and stitch types which are used to
possible tension whilst achieving a balanced join two or more plies of material together.
stitch to achieve optimum seam strength Seams are load bearing and in order to give
and seam elongation. In chain stitch derived optimum performance should be engineered
stitch types the looper threads have higher to have physical properties, in terms of
consumption than the needle threads strength and elongation, similar to those of
consequently it is always the needle thread the materials being sewn.
that fails first when the seams are
excessively loaded. Adjustment of the
amount of thread in the seam is mainly
determined by the stitch rating and the
thread tensions.
Lapped seams
Bound seams
Superimposed seams
or flatseam stitch types. In some cases 304 are to be produced. The most important
zig zag may be used. FSa-1 produces a low characteristic of any seam is seam strength.
bulk, flat, comfortable seam making it ideal
for underwear, babywear and foundation
type garments.
Seam strength
The main factors that drive seam strength
are the seam type, the stitch type, stitch
Ornamental stitchings density, fabric strength, thread strength, and
the tension at which the thread is applied in
the seam.
to seam strength is only that made by the For chainstitch, using the same stitch rating
weaker of the two threads in the seam. and the same sewing threads the seam
strength can be calculated to 29.9kg.
Thread tension is critical in delivering
appropriate seam strength and seam 16 X 1100 X 1.7 = 29,900g or 29.9kg
elongation. If the thread is too tight in the
seam it’s natural elongation is withdrawn
allowing the thread to fail prematurely. This
is particularly true when garments are
subjected to after-make laundry processes.