Alex Puccio

I had seen Alex Puccio post about her taking on clients either virtually or in person. Has anyone worked with her in the past that has any input on what it’s like to work with her? Overall I’m looking for a well rounded trainer that will help me improve my technique, provide guidance on how to build strength, and have regular review sessions (in person or virtual) so I can keep improving.

Any input would be very helpful. Thank you in advance!

I've been getting loads of advertisements for the Climber Fit program which advertises 2 climbing training routines for V6+ and sub-V6 climbers.

I fall into the sub-V6 category myself but I've been following my own routine for a couple of years now. I dont even have access to a gym right now so Im not even considering buying the program.

I was just wondering if the community has an opinion on this program given the big name attached to it. Has anyone given it a shot?

I took an Alex Puccio + Nina Williams clinic today. It was focused on technique for beginner/intermediate and dynos.

From Puccio, when you climb you want to maximize efficiency and to do that you want to use your hips to create the momentum for movement. First you stick your feet and don't move it after you have found a good foot hold. It will minimize slippage if you don't hop around on it.

Then keep your arms straight and basically get down into a squat. Really open up your hips, Asian squat style. Swing using your hips to lead the movement and use your legs to drive power into the swing. You want to minimize using your arms pulling you to the next hold and maximize the momentum from the swing to get you up.

Think of your body like a pendulum.

Heel hook: Do not position your foot so that your knee is pointed out. Place it in a position where you can put the side of your foot against the wall and your knee closer to the wall. Be thoughtful about where you place your heel because you want to place your heel a little higher than the spot you are aiming for. You want to be able to roll your heel into position to get that power.

Sometimes the situation will call for a toe hook instead of a heel hook. With a toe hook, you can get that extra reach needed even if the heel hook feels initially better. Another advantage that a toe hook has is that the swing will be less when you cut it.

Dyno: From Nina Williams, she said that the trick is to coordinate your arms and legs to work together. Aim w/ your hands and eyes. Your legs will be the driving force and use your hips to stay close to the wall.

Postion your feet and start low. Get down into the straight arms and squat postion. Image your legs being a frog legs.

Look and focus on the hold you are aiming for. Hips go up first then pop w/ your legs but don't release you hands until the last minute. The lower your feet are, the harder the dyno will be so try to keep the feet position high.

Stand and squat down for a pump. Your body should be going up, down and spring back up. Do not stop when you get to the squat, you are losing momentum. The pump and dyno should one fluid motion. Maybe pump once for a smallish dyno, maybe 2 for a bigger dyno or if you are tired. Any more is just a waste of energy. Remember to keep those hips into the wall.

Side dyno, you may want to focus on gaining momentum w/ the swing using your hips. Look with your head, swing w/ the hips and legs to pop. Again your hands do not leave the hold until the very last moment. Try to grab the hold with both hands if it's big enough. That way it minimizes possible shoulder injuries. You do end up with a crap ton of power and you don't want to accidentally injure your shoulder.

If you are too scared to grab the hold, don't focus on grabbing it. Instead, just focus on the swing and movement. Once you feel comfortable there, just touch the hold.

Quote from Puccio and Williams "Remember, if you can touch it, you can grab it." This is inspiring to me because I am 5'4" and dynos have always seems terrify. Today was the first time I have ever tried to dyno. I managed to get a good solid one today and almost got a side dyno. =)

Williams also stressed that practice is key. Do a few of them every time you climb and you will get better at them. Direct quote "Don't be afraid to make a fool of yourself. Thats really half the fun is like falling straight on your face cause then you have a really good story for later."