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Ann Demeulemeester

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WIWT: Haider Ackermann, Ann Demeulemeester
r/malefashion
r/malefashion

A welcoming space for designer, avant garde, queer, and other experimental fashion, 2011-04-01 to 2023-07-01. https://discord.gg/streetwear for Streetwear Discord, https://discord.gg/BhdZUd2BVk for MFA Discord.

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• WIWT: Haider Ackermann, Ann Demeulemeester
r/malefashion - WIWT: Haider Ackermann, Ann Demeulemeester
Ann Demeulemeester - '97 and today
r/ffacj_discussion
r/ffacj_discussion

As /r/circlebroke puts it: circlejerk without the satire. This is where you can have in-depth discussion about fashion, the fashion industry, and anything fashion related.. Really anything, so long as you follow some rules below. Yes, we are bitter people. And what about it? — Anyone is welcome. (But your spam re: "eTHICs IN ShaPeLEss lIneN sAck CONsumpTioN" is not) ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) Stolen from /r/muacjdiscussion

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• Ann Demeulemeester - '97 and today

Ludovic de Saint Sernin debuted at Ann Demeulemeester today (technically yesterday) and I thought, what a better way to welcome than with a revisit to the label's past?

Ann Demeulemeester, part of the Antwerp six, had been showing clothes for more than ten years when she sent her spring 1997 down the runway to a Patti Smith soundtrack. Her androgynous, asymmetrical, and slightly disheveled collection directly contrasted the brashly sexy Tom Ford-era Gucci shows and the streamlined, minimalist Prada, Calvin Klein, Helmut Lang shows of the same time. Her show was a rave success and cemented Demeulemeester in the fashion world.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin interned at Dior and Saint Laurent before accepting a full time position at Balmain. He opened his eponymous line in 2017, foraying into womenswear in 2022. His debut for Demeulemeester, blessed by Ann herself, incorporated the asymmetrical and androgynous codes of the house.

Admittedly, I think de Saint Sernin has large shoes to fill, but he hasn't quite filled them yet (which is fine as this is his first collection). The looks where the models have furry shawls, satin maxi skirts, and nothing else do not scream the effortless confidence of the woman who hastily buttoned whatever shirt or cardigan on her bedroom floor before leaving her apartment. The inherent sexiness of Demeulemeester is less dependent on the amount of skin showing and more dependent on the self-actualization of the woman herself.

What are your thoughts? Are you hopeful for the new creative director or more cautious? Do you have any favorite Demeulemeester pieces or shows? Who is the Demeulemeester woman to you? Do you like Patti Smith?

WWD for full '23 collection

Vogue runway link for the full '97 collection

anOther mag article on the '97 show

CNN Style video link for the '97 show

Ann Demeulemeester FW10 Corset Heels
r/malefashion
r/malefashion

A welcoming space for designer, avant garde, queer, and other experimental fashion, 2011-04-01 to 2023-07-01. https://discord.gg/streetwear for Streetwear Discord, https://discord.gg/BhdZUd2BVk for MFA Discord.

Members Online
• Ann Demeulemeester FW10 Corset Heels

I mentioned this on my last fit post, but I've been hunting for these boots for 2+ years, and managed to finally find a pair in brand new condition, so I figured I would take some glamour shots and do a small write up before I beat them to shit.

photo album

I'm sure a lot of you are familiar with the classic men's corset boot, also referred to as "backlaces." They were originally from the Men's Fall 2010 collection, but were so popular that they were given a re-edition in Spring 2018 (with much poorer quality, so I'd recommend finding an older pair if you're looking). The women's runway—one of Ann's softer collections of that era, scored by ambient music and, weirdly, David Bowie's rendition of "Wild is the Wind"—carried over the same corsetted motif but much more exaggerated, with bicycle stitching and a half-stiletto-half-wedge heel. Though the vogue writeup of the collection forecasted that these boots would be so popular as to have a waiting list (and they might have been!), they haven't lingered over the years in nearly the same capacity as the men's, and generally circulate at this point for sub-$200.

Lost in the mix of all of this was a pair of women's boots that never made the runway, but remain to me my favorite Ann footwear of all time. Likely because they weren't presented, they seem to be much more scarce than other similar old Ann boots on the secondhand market. In all the time I hunted for them, I found a total of 3 pairs, 2 of which were significantly too small, the 3rd I purchased. They're a revision of the classic Ann block heel shape, but with the corset motif, and an even more aggressive heel (~4.75"). The leather is a tough calfskin that is rougher/more textured to the touch than most other Ann shoes I've handled—comparable to a jacket leather. The faux-speedhooks on the corset are slightly offset such that you're able to really choke down the shaft without them running into each other, allowing the boots to be worn tight to the ankle. The sole is un-rounded, sharp lines jutting off at intersections between pieces. There are countless other remarkable small details here, but the photos do more justice to them than I'm able to in writing.

Hope you enjoy the photos! I've got a decent old-season Ann collection going at this point, so if these writeups are something people are interested in, let me know.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin Has Been Named Creative Director at Ann Demeulemeester
r/malefashionadvice
r/malefashionadvice

Reddit's largest men's fashion community. Making clothing less intimidating and helping you develop your own style. We welcome those who want to learn and those who want to contribute. We aim to foster an environment where everybody feels safe and welcomed and where people feel encouraged to have healthy and productive discussions.

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[crosspost] Ann Demeulemeester FW10 Corset Heels
r/goodyearwelt
r/goodyearwelt

The place to discuss high-quality footwear!

Members Online
• [crosspost] Ann Demeulemeester FW10 Corset Heels
r/malefashion •
Ann Demeulemeester FW10 Corset Heels

I mentioned this on my last fit post, but I've been hunting for these boots for 2+ years, and managed to finally find a pair in brand new condition, so I figured I would take some glamour shots and do a small write up before I beat them to shit.

photo album

I'm sure a lot of you are familiar with the classic men's corset boot, also referred to as "backlaces." They were originally from the Men's Fall 2010 collection, but were so popular that they were given a re-edition in Spring 2018 (with much poorer quality, so I'd recommend finding an older pair if you're looking). The women's runway—one of Ann's softer collections of that era, scored by ambient music and, weirdly, David Bowie's rendition of "Wild is the Wind"—carried over the same corsetted motif but much more exaggerated, with bicycle stitching and a half-stiletto-half-wedge heel. Though the vogue writeup of the collection forecasted that these boots would be so popular as to have a waiting list (and they might have been!), they haven't lingered over the years in nearly the same capacity as the men's, and generally circulate at this point for sub-$200.

Lost in the mix of all of this was a pair of women's boots that never made the runway, but remain to me my favorite Ann footwear of all time. Likely because they weren't presented, they seem to be much more scarce than other similar old Ann boots on the secondhand market. In all the time I hunted for them, I found a total of 3 pairs, 2 of which were significantly too small, the 3rd I purchased. They're a revision of the classic Ann block heel shape, but with the corset motif, and an even more aggressive heel (~4.75"). The leather is a tough calfskin that is rougher/more textured to the touch than most other Ann shoes I've handled—comparable to a jacket leather. The faux-speedhooks on the corset are slightly offset such that you're able to really choke down the shaft without them running into each other, allowing the boots to be worn tight to the ankle. The sole is un-rounded, sharp lines jutting off at intersections between pieces. There are countless other remarkable small details here, but the photos do more justice to them than I'm able to in writing.

Hope you enjoy the photos! I've got a decent old-season Ann collection going at this point, so if these writeups are something people are interested in, let me know.

upvotes · comments
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