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Climbing the famous summit pitch of Ancient Art. An experience I won't forget!

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Posted by19 days ago
Helpful4WholesomeSilver5

Climbing the famous summit pitch of Ancient Art. An experience I won't forget!

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level 1
· 19 days ago

I love climbing. I'm not afraid of heights. And I think this route is beautiful.

But every time I see a video of this I have a damn near panic attack. Don't know what it is, but I'll admire this one from afar.

487
level 2
· 19 days ago

The best is when it’s windy and you can feel this entire shield shimmy and wiggle. 10/10 never climbing this thing again - but glad I did

200
level 2
· 19 days ago

Came here to say this. Holy crap.

18
level 2
· 19 days ago

The final few pitches of Santiam Highway Ledges 5.10a at Smith Rock are sorta like this. A lot of scrambling hundreds of feet up in the air and the climbing isn't tough enough to warrant roping up every time.

28
level 2
· 18 days ago

I got that too

I think it’s that it’s not a wall, it’s just the spire. Nothing to your left or right but open air, instead of the usual continuation of wall

3
level 1
· 19 days ago

There’s no graceful way to get on the diving board :(

156
level 2
Op · 19 days ago

Classic beached whale shenanigans. My friend's double knee mantle is the most static way I've seen it done

101
level 2
· 19 days ago

I did this route last week for the third time and hand traversed the board to the left - still what I think is the best way rather than the beached whale, ha. But agreed there's no graceful way to get on top

14
level 2
· 19 days ago

you can climb up on it from the left side as I recall. and before you do that, you can take an extra long sling and sling the diving board itself.

9
level 2
· 19 days ago

I just vault onto it. One clean jump and hump and it's over. It's a height and confidence dependent move.

5
level 2
· 18 days ago

I jumped so high and pushed I landed on my ass on it

4
level 2
· 18 days ago

I found it much easier and graceful to traverse left low around the diving board personally!

4
level 1
· 19 days ago

Ya I'd butt-scooch along that sidewalk for sure.

111
level 1
· 19 days ago

Doing this next week! You made me more excited and terrified haha

57
level 2
Op · 19 days ago

You got it! This part might look scary but all of the 5.10 climbing is really well protected!

37
level 1
· 19 days ago

As someone who doesn’t climb, can someone tell me how you avoid slamming into the rock if you fall and get caught by the line? I feel the fall would smack you into the rocks.

48
level 2
· 19 days ago

That's called a "no fall zone." Easy. Just don't fall.

178
level 2
· 19 days ago

Considering it looks like there’s minimum protection on this route that’s a large possibility. From the rock project it states “There are places on each pitch where if you fall you will likely die. At the very least you will be badly hurt.”

86
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