Aconcagua

I’m an intermediate mountaineer, with highest summits around 5800m/19,000ft. I’m looking into doing Aconcagua in a year or so. Wanted to hear about your experience on the trek (good/bad/ugly) and what your training looked like.

I think I need a couple 6k meters under my belt before attempting Aconcagua. Any recommendation for training summits?

Thanks!

Hello mountaineers! I’d classify myself as an intermediate level mountaineer. This year I summited Pico de Orizaba (5636m) and completed Everest Basecamp (5364m) trek. Physically I felt pretty good for both regarding strength and altitude adjustment.

I’m thinking of doing Aconcagua next November, wanted to hear your experience about climbing Aconcagua (6960) and if my level of mountaineering is sufficient.

I’m thinking of doing Kilimanjaro in April and Rainier in the summer as preparation climbs.

Would love your feedback and advice.

Edit: any mountaineers in nyc? Moved here earlier in the year and looking for some adventure buddies :) I’m 39/F/awesome

I want to do a major peak in 2024. I came across Aconcagua as potentially my next big objective. I did Glacier Peak this year. The longer trek was an amazing experience. I would love to make a major step up from that. Given my experience below, is that an outrageous idea? I am still new enough to this sport that I feel ignorant to what i'm getting myself into, but a big part of the fun is pushing through the unknown. That being said, this unknown would be a pretty expensive guess. Experience:

• Colorado 14ers, 13ers

• Alpine climb success on Mt Baker, WA and Glacier Peak WA

• Alpine climb turnaround on Mt Rainier WA

• Solo climb Mt Adams, WA and Mt. St. Helens

• Several smaller WA peaks and fire lookouts involving ez scrambles

Other objectives I have for next year are success on Rainier, Alpine attempt on Hood, and repeat the others with a splitboard and shred down instead of alpine descent. I'm probably an idiot, but i'd rather find out this way, thank you!

Why Aconcagua?

• Successful completion of a 7 summit will build a great deal of confidence

• I dig endurance stuff

• South America traveling would be fun

• I'm closer to Denali, but I heard it's long and boring. It's also more expensive from what I can tell. I'm not sure from what I've heard that I'm ever that interested in Denali?

Long story short. I was doing so well between base camp all the way to camp 3. I was carrying between 19-23 kilograms the whole time too. Later that night at camp 3; I had a really bad fever. I had chills while being in 4 layers including my parka also being in my sleeping bag. I’m not sure what it could’ve been? The altitude the water or the food? It didn’t make sense to me because I felt fine at c2 and c1

I'm looking to climb Aconcagua with a friend, unguided and if possible in alpine style.

We plan on using Inka for logistics and base camp services, but going on our own above base camp.

Obviously we've searched the entire internet for information, but some questions remain:

1. What is the water situation like during the entire trip? We have filters + a stove and pot for boiling water, and chlorine tablets as a backup. Is there enough snow/ runoff to get enough water, even up high on the mountain? We plan on eating freeze dried food exclusively, so we will definitely need an extra liter per day.

2. The toilet situation as we've understood fixed camp toilets up to including base camp and WAGs from there on?

3. Is alpine style feasible? We know it will be a heavy pack, maybe around 25kgs. We want to have only one set of communal gear, so the only thing we can really shuttle around would be our freeze dried food and fuel which will get lighter anyway longer we go. We'll still do the acclimatization hikes, though. We’re mainly worried about gear being stolen.

4. As far as I can tell regarding boots: Normal trekking boots up to base camp and for the acclimatization hikes/ gear shuttles, and then double boots+crampons if needed for the summit ascent, starting from basecamp? Won't the terrain chew up the double boots?

5. Is going unguided really that much cheaper and worth it? Guided tours that go for upwards of 4000$ include many amenities and hotel stays in Mendoza etc.
   Ther permit is more expensive as well, isn't it? Or does using logistics services count as assistance and qualify you for the cheaper permit?
   What's the average price of logistic services for example? I'd rather like to use the money saved to buy new gear, as a goal of us is climbing Denali as well in the future, where the difference in cost between guided and unguided tours is extreme.

6. Where can I get maps of the area and further information regarding an Aconcagua climb?

Just wanted to share a cautionary tale.

Recently, I've tried to summit Aconcagua, but was forced to turn around (from Colera) by the guides and medics, due to high blood pressure (210/100). Before planning your trip, please check it and make sure it is ok. Personally, I did not feel any symptoms or detect anything concerning. No headache, gastric problems, etc. I had prior acclimatised in Ecuador, so I felt pretty well. Also, the weather was really sunny and almost windless.

The medics checked the blood pressure already in Confluencia. They detected my problem there. I was given some medicine and later, in Plaza de Mulas, my blood pressure was fine (140/90). I was hopeful and forgot about the whole thing. I did not check my blood pressure in El Nido. At Colera, just before the attack, my blood pressure was over 180. After going down to El Nido it went to something around 160/90.

For context: we were travelling without guides till the summit, so maybe if you are in a more organised trip, the checks are done more often. Additionally, I had no hypertension disease detected in my home country prior to the climb. I am checking this now, since that was the medic's suggestion.

Just want to stress that I felt very well at Colera. This whole situation took me completely by surprise.

Happy summits!

EDIT: grammar, more context.