SoulsticeCleaner

Big Bend Advice for Newbies

Just have to preface this--beyond little practice hikes to break in hiking shoes at the state park near where I live, I had basically zero hiking experience. I have been desperate to get out of the concrete jungle and my trip to Big Bend was the cure.

For other people who are either/or new to hiking or new to the Big Bend area, I just wanted to share my experience to help other people plan. BBNP not being very well trafficked means that there aren't an abundance of information/sample itineraries, but it also means (excepting peak seasons) you get a lot of peace and quiet when you get out there.

Getting there/Other Area Attractions:

• Naturally depends on where you're from and how much time you have. I took 10 most of the way, then I drove through the Astrobleme south of Fort Stockton on 385. I started the trip in the Marfa/Fort Davis area so I could take the River Road out to the National Park and stop and do the hikes within Big Bend Ranch State Park.

• If you are also an Astronomy nerd, try to time your trip around a trip out to the McDonald Observatory in Fort Davis. They have a ton of events you can hit up while you're out this far. Truly a once in a lifetime thing to get to see the 107' telescope at work!

• While you're there, I really recommend the Fort Davis National Historical Site (there is a great little hike in the area that's not on the website) and the Fort Davis State Park is great as well. Unique lodging within the State Park from the 1930s at Indian Lodge.

• Marfa is, well, Marfa. It appears to be getting a bit Austinized, and some kinda hilarious level of fancy dining can be had several places (seafood in the desert, y'all). I recommend Capri attached to the Thunderbird hotel for great drinks and food if you're looking for something like you'd get in Texas' big cities. Lost Horse Saloon if you're not. Marfa Burrito is some awesome authentic big-as-your-head burrito experience. The hotel restaurant at Paisano has enormous gringo style breakfast burritos that you can eat before hiking Ft. Davis or the State Park so you won't need to stop for lunch en route out to the NP.

• River Road/Big Bend Ranch State Park are CRIMINALLY underrated. Drive the River Road (rated Top Ten in North American Drives by Nat Geo!) and stop off for quick, easy hikes at the Hoodoos Trail and the Closed Canyon Trail en route to BBNP.

• Terlingua Ghost Town. Yes, Starlight Theatre is overrated, but it's some of the only game in town for dinner. There are great drunken patio parties on their and the Trading Company's porch at sunset. Some of the best BBQ in the state is at DB's Rustic Iron on the highway into town. The cemetery is extremely affecting with its blend of old and new and meticulously cared for and decrepit graves. The Poco Mas place is great for breakfast and coffee.

• Food desert. You are in a food desert near and in BBNP. There's not even fast food (except in Alpine). Most places don't open until 5 for dinner. You can find some specialty products in Alpine and at the Cottonwood store, but if you have special dietary needs, bring it with you. Chorizo is a food group here and fruits and vegetables are thin on the ground. I'll go as far as to say you're in an everything desert--if you need specific medication, food, clothing, bring it with you. There is not a Walmart within 100+miles of BBNP.

• Gas. There is one gas station close to the park and one within it. Gas up whenever you can. Check your oil and tires, especially if you're considering the "primitive" or "unimproved" drives.

• If you're in the Marathon area, that V6 Coffee joint attached to the Gage Hotel has some of the best espresso drinks I have ever had in my life. Gage Hotel is a bit more refined than other things in the area.

Where to stay at BBNP:

• There's not a lot of options if you're not camping, so you may have to get creative and try something like VRBO. Staying in Study Butte/Terlingua gets you closer to the park if you can't book camping or the lodge within BBNP.

Hiking Tips from a Newb:

• HIKING SHOES. Wear them and love them. (And break them in in advance). SO MANY PEOPLE hike in BBNP in running shoes, which you can get away with on simpler hikes, I guess. But most hikes aren't paved, and even ones without a lot of elevation (Chimneys) are still over river rocks which require more ankle stability than a running shoe can provide.

• Sun protection. Even though the temps are mild currently (barring a freakish 90 degree day I had), the sun can be punishing.

• Do not underestimate how long it will take to get from one end of the park to another. We all know the conventional wisdom of everything being bigger in Texas, but holy shit. Within 2 days, I did 300 miles within the park alone driving. Remember the only official restaurant is at Chisos Lodge, so pack in the food and drink you'll want.

• HYDRATE. Seems obvious and I know it's Hiking 101, but for those of us from the coastal parts of the state, I was shocked at how much more thirsty I got hiking at higher altitudes in chilly climates than I did when it was 90 degrees at the Boquillas/Santa Elena Canyon hikes.

Stargazing:

• If there is a full moon, it will drown out a lot of the stars (and a lot of the observatory dates seem to coincide with full moons). Check out the website cleardarksky.com for the best chance to see the most stars. I'm not exaggerating when I say it is one of the most profound experiences you can have on your trip. Waking up 30 minutes to an hour early can give you some killer views if the moon has been interfering with stargazing.

Other:

• I loved the Trail Ride out of Big Bend Stables. You get to explore an old mine, see coyote dens and trails, and prehistorical pictographs on the 1/2 day ride.

That's just my 2 cents--I just wanted to share because I was so happy with this trip and wanted to share any experiences I had to make it as enjoyable for anyone else!