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Why the biggest celebrities in the world trust this photographer

New York-based artist Ryan McGinley has road-tripped with Brad Pitt, hung out with Kate Moss and got Troye Sivan to strip. Now he’s in Melbourne to explain what drives him.

Stephen ToddDesign editor

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Road-tripping with Brad Pitt across America, New York-based photographer Ryan McGinley shot the Hollywood star tumbling down dunes, frolicking across prairies or simply crouched in fields of tall native grasses staring pensively at the horizon.

The trip, crossing half a dozen state lines over eight days in the spring of 2017, was commissioned by American GQ magazine and was a continuation of the work McGinley had done over a decade.

Dune frolics on Brad Pitt’s US road-trip for GQ magazine. Ryan McGinley

“From 2004 or so, me and a bunch of friends and a handful of assistants would take off each summer, road-tripping to explore different landscapes,” he recalls.

The results were portraits of youth in all its insouciance – joyous, carefree, often naked, always self-absorbed – rather than portraits of any particular subject. Sure, the image titles often bore names, but it was the essence of the figure in its setting that was truly compelling.

Tapping into American highway mythology as captured in Jack Kerouac’s On The Road of 1957 and photographer Robert Frank’s The Americans series (1958), McGinley soon found himself being commissioned to shoot celebrities keen to insert themselves into similar trippy narratives.

Actors and singers as diverse as Dakota Johnson, Travis Scott, Billie Eilish, Myley Cyrus and Harry Styles have all passed in front of McGinley’s lens at one time or another.

“For me there is no difference shooting Beyoncé or a skater punk at Saint Mark’s Place,” says McGinley, referring to New York’s Lower East Side subculture haunt.

Yearbook, an exhibition of his portraits taken over a decade, is a linchpin of the PHOTO 2024 festival, which is presenting 150 local and international photographers in exhibitions and installations around Melbourne and regional Victoria until March 24.

McGinley was born in New Jersey in 1977 and moved to New York aged 20 to study graphics at the Parsons School of Design. Hanging out downtown he fell in with skater kids, graffiti artists and the young queer community.

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He began taking Polaroids of his peers – “bombing” buildings with cryptic tags, making out, getting high; in short, celebrating life. Pasting the images up on the walls of his East Village apartment, he soon realised he was capturing a particular moment in time: post AIDS, on the cusp of a new millennium with the thrill and uncertainty of a prophesied Y2K armageddon. So he gathered the photos into a handmade book titled The Kids Were Alright, effectively a collective portrait of a generation.

McGinley began shooting his downtown NYC friends in the late 1990s. Ryan McGinley

“I feel like my generation was sort of the light after the darkness,” he says.

The book fell into the hands of curator and scholar Sylvia Wolf, who arranged McGinley a solo show at the Whitney Museum of American Art, a very uptown institution. It was 2003 and he was 25, the youngest photographer to have a solo show at the august institution.

Such was the critical acclaim that McGinley was named Photographer of the Year by American Photo Magazine; awarded the Young Photographer Infinity Award by the International Centre for Photography (2007); and honoured at the Guggenheim’s Young Collectors Ball in 2009.

In 2014, GQ declared McGinley “the most important artist in America”.

How did he feel?

“I don’t overthink things, so while I definitely enjoyed the recognition I don’t believe it changed the way I photograph or the way I behave.”

An image from McGinley’s 2003 series featuring Kate Moss for W magazine. Ryan McGinley

It did make him feel like spreading his wings beyond downtown New York, though. “Not through any kind of rejection, it just felt time to point my camera somewhere else.”

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Fortuitously, a friend had bought a country house and offered it to McGinley for extended visits. He began inviting friends, installed a trampoline, made bonfires. They’d get naked and frolic, incarnating a kind of Rousseau-esque back-to-nature bacchanal.

Famously, Kate Moss would pose in such a setting for a W magazine fashion spread in 2003.

Then, another pivot – this time into a studio back in New York to begin a decade-long (2009–2019) project called Yearbook, now installed at the Shepparton Art Museum as part of the PHOTO 2024 festival.

“It’s a continuation of my fascination with youth subcultures but also a personal challenge to find my voice in studio since I’m not a technical photographer.”

But find his voice McGinley does: even though the subjects are stripped of identifying signs of occupation or social standing. Shot on candy-coloured backgrounds and collaged the length and height of the gallery’s walls, the installation offers a kaleidoscopic immersion into what McGinley describes as “a web of friends and friends of friends that binds us all together”.

A recent self-portrait. Ryan McGinley

“Ryan is an important artist who for the last couple of decades has been at the forefront of documenting and celebrating youth culture,” says PHOTO 2024 founder and creative director Elias Redstone. “He uniquely blurs the lines between queerness, pop culture, skateboarding, music and fashion. Through his work he has changed the landscape of photography.”

McGinley’s latest work, a series of more than a dozen images of Australian singer Troye Sivan, is on show as a separate installation.

Australian singer Troye Sivan, photographed by McGinley in 2023. Ryan McGinley

“These photos capture a free-spirited nature in Troye’s energy,” says McGinley. “They offer a closeness to him that isn’t so commercial. It’s more stripped down and intimate versus the done-up nature of pop stardom.”

McGinley will be in Melbourne to give a keynote at the PHOTO 2024 Ideas Summit, speaking about his creative process, his rapid rise to fame and his grounding in community. After which he intends to head to Hanging Rock, the location of Peter Weir’s 1974 classic, Picnic at Hanging Rock.

“It’s one of my all-time favourite films, and I am hoping to shoot some new work there,” he says.

Need to know

  • PHOTO 2024 is on at venues across Melbourne and regional Victoria until March 24. 
  • Yearbook is showing at the Shepparton Art Museum.
  • Ryan X Troye  is showing at the Festival Hub in Collingwood.
  • Ryan McGinley will be speaking at the festival’s Ideas Summit on March 15. 

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Stephen Todd
Stephen ToddDesign editorStephen Todd writes for The Australian Financial Review's weekly Life&Leisure lift out and AFR Magazine. Email Stephen at stephen.todd@afr.com

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