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Any paperclay enthusiasts/experts/connoisseurs here? by amyrator in Ceramics

[–]RebelWithoutAClue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wonder if paper slip has a lower degree of drying shrinkage from your clay. Is there some sort of directionality to how the slip peels off of the work? Does it shuck off in longer lengths or is it peeling off sideways from as streak?

Looking for feedback and suggestions on recirculating sink idea by Immediate_Still5347 in Ceramics

[–]RebelWithoutAClue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The dumbest simple trap I started with (and am still using) is a cut down 5ga bucket. I sawed down a bucket so it's about 8" tall which I wash my tools over. I run my faucet at a low flow while washing so I don't dump more water into the bucket than needed.

Every now and then I decant out the bucket until the water starts to get turbid again.

It seems to work reasonably well for a lower production dumb system that gets decanted out maybe twice every time I've got some hours to do some pottery.

Look at what someone did to this poor Wustof. Chef gave it to me for free by rawchickenthighs in KitchenConfidential

[–]RebelWithoutAClue 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Someone tried to sharpen it with an angle grinder I think and couldn't stop it from wandering around.

Not all is lost. It could be re-profiled with a coarse 200/400 grit stone and some patience. Basically hold the stone perpendicularly to work out the waviness in the edge first. Then work on reestablishing the bevels.

I hate the stupid full tang bolster that goes all the way to the bottom. If there was anything to take the angle grinder to, it would be the bottom of the bolster so I wouldn't be chipping my stones on that freaking thing for the rest of it's life.

I want the closing managers head!!! by cookanchill in KitchenConfidential

[–]RebelWithoutAClue 24 points25 points  (0 children)

I'm sure there's some way to dissolve even more sugar into that.

New rig setup by az226 in DryAgedBeef

[–]RebelWithoutAClue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Goofy idea, but I bet that if you put a 50W incandescent bulb behind a circulation fan you could pump some heat into the fridge.

If the fridge has a heat source inside of it, the compressor would turn on more often and drop your humidity.

More directly, you could get one of these doohickies off of Amazon for cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/Yrhrol-Thermoelectric-Refrigeration-Semiconductor-Conditioner/dp/B0B48K6QWH/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=peltier+module&qid=1683517826&sprefix=peltier+%2Caps%2C372&sr=8-4

A peltier cooling module could be controlled by an Inkbird humidity controller so you could set up a secondary dehumidifier to condense out water from your humidity spikes. A peltier will also end up rejecting heat into your fridge which would increase the main compressor running time.

Ideally, set up your peltier on a drip tray to catch the moisture with some sort of spout that would dump that moisture down the drainhole in your fridge.

Most fridges have some spot for draining moisture that you could use to dump moisture.

Question for all of the intelligent chefs out there, why are you so fucking stupid when it comes to bread? -Your local baker by 1994bmw850csi in KitchenConfidential

[–]RebelWithoutAClue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After dealing with idiot customers arguing about the meaning of med-rare, alllerfy lists that are contradicted by special requests, I suppose that it is nice to be a Karen somewhere.

Can you make a loaf with more bubbles, but fewer big bubbles for cheaper since it'll be mostly air?

My Sous Chef found a servers phone on prep station by mermur21 in KitchenConfidential

[–]RebelWithoutAClue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the air from within the phone was evacuated, notionally because the phone is not assembled in a gas tight manner, the air within the phone would be drawn out during the vacuum process.

The numbers I listed above are for sea level atmospheric pressure. I wasn't working with hypothetical numbers that didn't regard atmospheric pressure.

That means that the volume of the phone would be fixed by the rigid exterior and there would be no gas pressure inside the phone's envelope to oppose atmospheric pressure acting on the faces of the bag.

There would be a 1 atmosphere differential between the screen and the interior of the phone. Well, a bit less than 1atm if the chamber was drawn down to 100mbar.

1 atmosphere is not that minimal. It's 14.7psia which means that we have 14.7 pounds per square inch acting upon us.

I agree that atmospheric pressure isn't all that high in comparison to a can of spray paint (somewhere around 70psi), but I still don't see that exerting 200lbs of compression on a phone is a great thing to do.

Perhaps the thing that is saving the phone is that the bag may not have been very tight against the phone when the chamber was drawn down. Usually you have to draw vacuum for 90s to get a bag drawn down really tight (well below 100mbar).

It could be that the volume that was trapped in the bag before the seal bar hit was still considerably larger than the phone. The chamber might have been drawn down to 100mbar, but the starting volume (phone plus loose bag gap) could be double the phone's volume so the bag's final pressure is considerably higher than 100mbar. I've found that if I really want to get a bag tight I've got to draw vacuum for awhile to account for the bag starting a bit slack around the object.

I've actually designed vacuum pressure systems for degassing polymer resins and adhesives. I am a mechanical engineer who designs products.

My Sous Chef found a servers phone on prep station by mermur21 in KitchenConfidential

[–]RebelWithoutAClue 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I don't think it's a "slight chance".

Atmospheric pressure is 14.7psi. If you drew down to 100mbar (1.4psi) you'd have a 13.3psi pressure differential squeezing that phone thinner.

Figure the phone for 3"x6" and you've got 18 square inches for pressure to act upon which works out to a whopping 240lbf sitting on that phone.

There are many things that could be compromised by vacuum bagging a phone. The parts don't come together dead even when the faces get mashed together so there will be pressure points where components bump into each other. This could flex circuit boards and stress tiny microball solder pads and fine pathways.

That phone should have it's data backed up promptly. It's life expectancy might have dropped a bunch by being vacuum bagged.

Help me troubleshoot my 40-day rib-eye (aged in a fridge) by LarriGotton in DryAgedBeef

[–]RebelWithoutAClue 1 point2 points  (0 children)

OP needs to get their humidity up above 60% before they should be considering aging for longer.

Pain by SnooDoubts8781 in KitchenConfidential

[–]RebelWithoutAClue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like you should get into the bacon candle business.

any tips on how to better the design? by beautyinthemundan3 in Ceramics

[–]RebelWithoutAClue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It makes me feel like I'm trying to dump a proton torpedo down a thermal exhaust port.

Maybe you could do a study on porcelain and play with thicknesses to use the translucence of the material to admit light in various diffuse ways through the walls. Some streaks of weakly pigmented clay, kind of like marbelling, could provide different colours of light to pass through the walls.

Help me troubleshoot my 40-day rib-eye (aged in a fridge) by LarriGotton in DryAgedBeef

[–]RebelWithoutAClue 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I think that you formed a hard, low permeability pellicle in conditions that were too dry.

In sausage making, very dry conditions can result in the formation of a hard, low permeability pellicle if the exterior of the sausage dries too fast. I suspect that this can be an issue with beef aging as well.

The formation of a hard pellicle can greatly reduce the evaporation rate of water through the pellicle which will reduce your rate of water reduction. In sausage making it can cause over fermentation of the interior and spoilage if moisture cannot escape through a hard pellicle.

Very dry conditions on the surface of meat will retard mold growth which seems to be a significant contributor to the funk of aged beef and the further development of enzymes that the mold breaks down muscle fiber with.

I'm not sure why this would affect enzymatic breakdown (tenderization) though. I would have thought that a wetter interior would still be subject to enzymatic breakdown.

I think you've got to get your average humidity up a fair bit for better beef aging.

I’m honor of tomorrow, I present: the Meat-lennium Falcon by jwal245 in KitchenConfidential

[–]RebelWithoutAClue 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Loaded with pepper and cumin, cooked too quickly and it'll be quite the Kessel spice runs.