Ann Demeulemeester, part of the Antwerp six, had been showing clothes for more than ten years when she sent her spring 1997 down the runway to a Patti Smith soundtrack. Her androgynous, asymmetrical, and slightly disheveled collection directly contrasted the brashly sexy Tom Ford-era Gucci shows and the streamlined, minimalist Prada, Calvin Klein, Helmut Lang shows of the same time. Her show was a rave success and cemented Demeulemeester in the fashion world.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin interned at Dior and Saint Laurent before accepting a full time position at Balmain. He opened his eponymous line in 2017, foraying into womenswear in 2022. His debut for Demeulemeester, blessed by Ann herself, incorporated the asymmetrical and androgynous codes of the house.

Admittedly, I think de Saint Sernin has large shoes to fill, but he hasn't quite filled them yet (which is fine as this is his first collection). The looks where the models have furry shawls, satin maxi skirts, and nothing else do not scream the effortless confidence of the woman who hastily buttoned whatever shirt or cardigan on her bedroom floor before leaving her apartment. The inherent sexiness of Demeulemeester is less dependent on the amount of skin showing and more dependent on the self-actualization of the woman herself.

What are your thoughts? Are you hopeful for the new creative director or more cautious? Do you have any favorite Demeulemeester pieces or shows? Who is the Demeulemeester woman to you? Do you like Patti Smith?

WWD for full '23 collection

Vogue runway link for the full '97 collection

anOther mag article on the '97 show

CNN Style video link for the '97 show