I've drawn the kind of condition I'm working with, essentially a table top and legs, which I'd like to be able to disassemble when needed. The hardware would ideally be where the red pieces are. Only thing that comes to my mind is L brackets and screws but I think the screws would wear out over time. Also something that doesn't damage both surfaces as the table is used and moves slightly when weight is put on and taken off would be idea. Thanks!

133

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333

Posted by1 day ago

help

Building greenhouse foundation

I'm planning on getting a small greenhouse around 6x8ft but I'm confused on the foundation part. There's a lot of conflicting information so I just wanted to make sure I'm doing things right. I plan to dig out around 8" deep, lay down geotextile fabric, fill in with some type of coarse stone, level, Make a frame out of 4x4s with rebar going through to anchor into the ground, and then attach the greenhouse to that. I'm still unsure on the base stone part- ideally I'd like to buy in bulk but the only local options I have are decomposed granite, concrete washout, limestone base, pea gravel, and some other types of decorative coarse stone. What should I be using? It's about $100-$200 more expensive if I were to buy paver base steps 1 and 2 from home Depot, but is that the better option? Is this overkill? I'm on clay soil near the coast so we get tropical storms every year and hurricanes every now and then. Should I even be doing this lol? Would I be better off hiring a professional or is this doable for someone slightly handy? Also... Is stone even necessary? Ive seen some people just level the ground and build the wooden frame part or use cinderblocks, how necessary is digging things out and filling with stone? Sorry for all the questions and thanks for any help.

Also on a side note, I saw one person say it's best to have around 3-4ft clearance around the greenhouse, but I planned to have it backed up to a fence. Will this cause issues?

333

49 comments

21

Posted by9 hours ago

electronic

Wall mounting a TV question (s)...

I'm planning to mount a 43" LCD on my office. The mount I got a while ago; not wide, maybe about 24" long, full articulation.

The issue I'm having is that the wall studs where I want to mount it isn't centered for this mount. There are 3 studs that I can mount it to, but the mount would be either too far left or too far right.

Would I be able to just install the mount using the center stud and center mounting holes of the mount? Lag screws and washers would be used to secure the mount to the stud. Could I also use drywall anchors (I use Toggler SnapSkrus), along with the lag screws into the stud, for added stability?

Thanks all!

21

11 comments

226

Posted by23 hours ago

woodworking

Supporing a 10ft shelf and closet rod

ETA - Thanks for all the advice! I found some brackets which claim to be rated for 1000lbs per pair and fastened them into the studs with very long cabinet screws. I installed five in total - starting from the center stud and then two studs in each direction. I replaced the very bent rod with a pair of 1.25 poplar dowels which meet at the center bracket. I put everything back and it all seems to be holding really well.

I have a walk-in closet with a 10ft long shelf which, until recently, was held up by two side cleats and three metal shelf brackets screwed into studs (the sort of bracket that has a u-shaped rod holder). The shelf itself seemed sturdy enough, but the brackets holding up the closet rod collapsed under the weight of the clothes.

https://imgur.com/a/NyEclYc

~~I've never built a closet, but my short assessment is that:~~

1. The brackets weren't screwed into the shelf, which seems like a potential source of stability for the rod. 2. The shelf wasn't tied into a cleat along the back wall, which seems like a potential source of stability for the shelf. 3. The rod itself is one of those very thin, expandable metal rods, and it seems like almost any other material (thicker metal or wood) would have helped.

My tentative plan is to put in a long back cleat (1x4), put in new brackets and screw them into the shelf, and replace the closet rod with something more rigid (pipe or a dowel). However, I'm not totally convinced that this will be sufficient for supporting the middle of the 10ft span.

It seems like one way to go is to install some kind of post in/near the middle and run the new closet rod through a hole cut in it, and then tie that into the shelf and otherwise let gravity hold it in place.

~~I've also seen some people tie supports into the cleat sort of in the style of doing a floating shelf, but I'm not clear on how much support that really could add.~~