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r/Ultralight
r/Ultralight
- The /r/Ultralight Wiki
- 1. Introduction
- 2. Key Concepts
- 3. Jargon and Expressions
- 4. Reducing Pack Weight I: Techniques
- 5. Reducing Pack Weight II: Equipment
- 6.0 Cold Weather / Winter Hiking
- 7.0 Gear Manufacturers
- 8.0 Resources
The /r/Ultralight Wiki
1. Introduction
1.1. Current Version
Last Updated: 12/14/2018
Note: If you would like to contribute to the wiki, please message the moderators.
1.2 Purpose
This wiki is designed to help those new to the 'ultralight' community. The goal being familiarization with: key concepts, jargon and expressions, weight saving techniques and equipment choices, and useful online tools.
2. Key Concepts
2.1. Defining 'Ultralight'
A common definition of 'ultralight' is: hiking with the lightest pack weight possible by taking a minimal amount of the lightest gear required to be safe for a given trip. This revolves around two key concepts: how light your pack is and what you do to make your pack lighter.
2.2 Pack Weight
2.2.1 Displaying Gear Lists
One of the most common types of posts seen on /u/ultralight is requests for gear list critiques. This is done by presenting your current gear (or proposed future items) in a succinct list with accurate weights displayed. When sharing with the community it is best to use an online resource such as lighterpack or Gear Grams. This is also useful as it automatically separates your gear into the appropriate categories, which are defined and described below. Presenting your gear using tools like these make it easy to see where your pack could drop weight. The best thing that you can do is to be honest with yourself, weigh and log everything into one of these tools and go from there.
2.2.2 Measuring Pack Weight
In order to give quality advice, suggestions and answers to questions, a fair and consistent method of measuring pack weight is required. The most common form of pack weight used in /r/ultralight is known as 'base pack weight'.
Base pack weight (BPW) - the total weight of everything inside or attached to your pack and the weight of the pack itself, minus the weight of any consumables (e.g. gas/fuel, water and food). This is a fixed weight that does not change over the course of a trip, regardless of trip length; if two similar 3-season gear lists can be used for a one-nighter, or 5-days, base pack weight will ignore the differences in consumables, but not gear. It provides an equal footing for comparing lists between people and allows for more realistic weight goals.
Consumable Weight - The weight of anything that diminishes over the course of a trip is known as a consumable weight (CW). Notable examples include fuel, water and food. While these can make significant contributions to pack weight, their weight is highly correlated with trip duration and thus can make for invalid comparisons between gear lists. Also, don't forget to include things like your fuel container or water bottles in your BPW as they are non-consumable. Lighterpack has an option to list items as consumable.
Total pack weight (TPW) - the weight of your pack and everything in/attached to it at the beginning of your trek, including consumables. TPW is a good measure for how comfortable a given style of pack will be for the intended trip. This is especially important when considering which backpack is suitable for your trip and/or gear weight, as different packs or styles (ie. frameless vs. frame) are capable of carrying different maximum weights.
Example: A frameless small volume (30-40L) backpack will be comfortable up to 15lbs, and have the potential to fail above 20lbs TPW. The world of framed medium volume (50-60L) backpacks will have a much wider range of comfort and weight limits, from 30-50lbs.
Skin-Out Weight - Another useful weight index is that of skin-out weight (SOW). This is the weight of everything that you carry from your skin out, again excluding consumables. The idea behind this metric, is that it prevents 'cheating'; e.g. when people start putting equipment in their pockets or claim to wear too much clothing in order to reduce their on paper BPW.
Total Weight - The weight of everything that you bring into the wilderness is your total weight. It takes practice, patience and experience to reduce your total weight. Your BPW needs to be small, you need to be finely tuned in your clothing options for a low SOW and you need to be highly precise with your consumable weight. It is very difficult (and pointless) to compare between people, but a relatively low total pack weight is the hallmark of the most ultralight tools we have: experience and knowledge.
2.2.3 Defining 'Ultralight' by Pack Weight
The simplest method for defining 'ultralight' is to base it solely on the pack weight an individual has been able to achieve. This is a weight class approach. Though easy to understand, the weight class approach struggles with generalizations - limiting its suitability as a sole definition of 'ultralight'. Across seasons, a base pack weight of 10lbs might be considered ultralight in 3 season conditions, excessive in summer conditions and under prepared in 4 season conditions. Relatively, a 10lb pack for a fit 110lb individual will feel different compared to the same pack being carried by a fit 180lb individual. More abstractly, the weight class approach to defining 'ultralight' struggles with less tangible attributes such as skills, techniques, behaviours and hiking philosophy.
The weight class approach is where a hiker’s base pack weight determines their classification. Because this system has strong American roots, the classifications are traditionally done in pounds (lbs). These classifications are presented in the following table. Please note that this system has several limitations, which are discussed under 'critique'. Importantly, do not think that one weight class is 'better' than another, do not make 'stupid light' cuts to your gear just so you enter a new arbitrary weight class, and please realize that UL progression is not just who can spend the most money (see our UL budget list, and ideas under 4.3 Gear Modifications).
Weight Class | Base Pack Weight |
---|---|
Traditional | >20lbs (9.07kg) |
Lightweight | <20lbs (9.07kg) |
Ultralight | <10lbs (4.54kg) |
Super-Ultralight | <5lbs (2.27kg) |
Critique - This weight class model for defining ultralight has limited usefulness. It can certainly help show that you are potentially carrying a pack that is too heavy - but it really fails to deal with all the nuances of individual requirements as well as trip specificity. Different trips will require different types/amounts of gear. Hence, the relative minimum amount of weight to take fluctuates. Bigger people also have bigger clothing, so the weight of the gear fluctuates. These inconsistencies are glaring issues with the weight class approach. A more sophisticated way to look at 'ultralight' is as a mentality (mindset), a set of behaviours and as a philosophical approach to hiking.
2.3 Mentality, Behaviour & Philosophy
Having ascertained that 'ultralight' is not all about pack weight - what is it about? Well, it is more of a way of thinking about what we carry for the activities we undertake. The usefulness of everything gets questioned, equipment is optimized for specific conditions, planning is crucial and weights are arbitrary. When experience is gained, you will see that ‘ultralight' is not about actively choosing gear for the sake of relative weight loss. Rather, after a trip is logistically planned by analyzing all realistic environmental factors (see below) and conditions are understood, an experienced hiker can then make educated decisions about equipment choices that will provide optimal function for the chosen hike; weight cuts come as a by-product of this experience.
2.3.1 Optimize Equipment for Specific Conditions
Why carry scuba gear if you're not going underwater? Certainly a silly example, but the idea is that the equipment you do carry should be suited for the terrain and conditions you're likely to encounter. Knowledge is used to replace excess gear in order to save weight. Examples of knowledge that should be researched before every trip includes water availability, temperatures (across each day, including night time temperatures), precipitation, elevation profiles, biting insect pressure, sun and wind exposure, etc. These climatic and environmental factors tell the hiker exactly what gear is necessary for each trip, and which is excess. Being underprepared (‘stupid light’, see 3.1 below) is arguably much more dangerous than being overprepared (‘fear brings gear’).
2.4 Motivations
Now that we have an idea of what the approach is, the next logical questions is - 'why should I care?'. This section deals with the diverse motivations that individuals have when adopting some variety of the ultralight approach to their hiking. The most common reasons are comfort, distance/speed and a need to carry (non-hiking related) additional equipment.
In a simplified manner, there is a chain reaction of changes that can occur when a hiker switches to a more lightweight mindset or gear loadout. If a hiker reduces their base weight, they will either be able to hike further relative to their previous base weight, and/or hike faster. This is highly subjective, as going ultralight may allow a marathon runner to now hike 40+ miles a day, while going ultralight may simply allow a casual hiker to enjoy the trail more, experience less fatigue, prevent recurring injuries (ie. back strain, knee pain), etc.
Increasing distance and/or speed
The purpose of this section is not to inform people how to hike a trail (ie. see ‘hike your own hike’ under section 3.0), but rather present a basic framework from which many ultralight hikers operate. This is relative to a ‘traditional’ gear setup (20-50lbs+ base weight), while still maintaining the same level of safety without any ‘stupid light’ choices being made. An ultralight hiker wakes up early and breaks camp. Breakfast is either consumed in camp, or after an hour of hiking once the morning (and hiker) warms up more. From this point forward, breaks are normally taken to treat water, restock snacks, or check navigation; stopping to cook a full lunch is rare, instead snacks are consumed all day on the move. Hiking for 10-12hrs a day is not unusual – a consistent pace and also dedicating as much daylight to hiking as possible is what results in being able to hike long distances. Dinner can be consumed in camp (ie. setup your shelter while water is boiling), while some hikers will cook dinner and then continue to hike until sunset. This allows the hiker to maintain ‘trail heat’ (immediately going to bed), while not having to deal with cooking food near camp.
Again, this is a basic framework that does not apply to all scenarios. In desert conditions, such as areas of the PCT, hikers will often wake up very early to avoid the daytime heat (eg. 3am), and then do more dedicated breaks during the day, as one example of many.
3. Jargon and Expressions
The /r/ultralight list of abbreviations is useful for reference.
‘Hike Your Own Hike’: (from the abbreviation list): Understanding everyone has their own comfort and safety levels and that your "way" may not be right for someone else. The reasons that people hike and the gear choices they make are their own personal choice. We do not shame people who want to practice bush craft, fly fishing, photography, or simply take three days to hike 15 miles. Similarly, people may criticize an ultralight hiker for not appreciating nature, going too fast, or voice other concerns about what they may see as an unusual form of hiking. Hike your own hike goes both ways.
Stupid Light: by carrying insufficient equipment - with the intention of saving weight - a hiker places their self in a compromising, uncomfortable or dangerous situation. They are said to have packed 'stupid light'.
Example: Jeff leaves his bug net at home to save 250g in pack weight. At camp, he is constantly irritated by mosquitoes such that he has a poor night’s sleep. The following day, Jeff is miserable on the trail because he is exhausted and itchy as hell.
'The Big 3': consists of your three main gear systems – sleep (sleeping bag or quilt, and sleeping pad), backpack, and shelter (whether tent, tarp, bivy, hammock, etc.). They tend to make up the majority of pack weight and hence present the best opportunity for reducing pack weight. They also tend to be the most expensive purchases to make, but an important concept to keep in mind is ‘investing’ in quality gear that is extensively reviewed and relevant to your most commonly encountered conditions.
'Fear Brings Gear': by not knowing the conditions for a given trip, an individual is more likely to over-pack and thus end up with a heavier than needed pack. The most common areas are clothing systems and first aid kits.
Example: Jane had never been hiking before, but had heard that it was going to be cold. Not knowing what to expect, she brought 4 jumpers. At the end of the trip she realised that she had only worn one of them, with the other 3 remaining in her pack the entire time. Jeff, cranky from lack of sleep, turned to Jane and said 'Ha! classic fear brings gear'.
Gear System: Having different pieces of equipment work together to achieve a goal with minimal overlap. eg. sleep ‘system’ is generally comprised of a sleeping bag/quilt and pad.
‘Knowledge Weighs Nothing’: By knowing relevant skills, techniques and tricks an individual can carry more spartan equipment thus reducing their pack weight. Knowledge has no mass. This applies to every area of hiking, from planning logistics, gear selection, proper gear use, site selection, to how to properly cross a river. A 5lb tent with a footprint can be setup on most regularly encountered areas without evening needing to think; a tarp system weighing less than a pound can also provide protection in the same areas if the proper knowledge and skills are utilized.
Example: On her next hike, Jane only brought 1 jumper - reducing her pack weight by 3 jumpers. She had also learned from Jeff that bugs might be an issue - so brought a bug net.
4. Reducing Pack Weight I: Techniques
4.1 Hydration
4.1.1 Carrying Water
Hydration is one area where ‘fear brings gear’ can occur. If a hiker does not look up environmental cues, such as water availability, during the planning process of a trip they may be more prone to bringing an excess amount of water containers. At max capacity, water will most likely be the heaviest item that you carry. Generally, for 3-season conditions in moderate climates, 2 liters of water capacity is recommended.
A good tip is: 1L water bottle for drinking from, 1L ‘dirty’ container to treat water from. At the water source, take a large drink of treated water (sometimes up to 1L), treat another liter of water into the clean drinking bottle, then refill the dirty 1L bottle. You are now fully hydrated, have 1L ready to drink, and another 1L ready to filter or treat, without carrying any excess nor going ‘stupid light’ and risking dehydration. This is sometimes referred to as "cameling up".
4.1.2 Treating Water
Treating water comes in many forms. The most often cited on /r/ultralight is using a physical water filter which has a nano fiber membrane. Water is filtered from a ‘dirty’ container into a clean one as described above. Besides using a physical water filter, other options involve using a UV light or chemical treatment such as Aquamira. chemical treatments in liquid and tablet form have fallen out of favor despite weighing grams per treatment because of their need of 20 minutes to several hours to render water potable. UV devices have the advantage of rendering viruses inert, but still hold a weight penalty over popular nano filters. Some members of the ultralight and bushcraft communities opt not to filter or purify water and instead drink straight from water sources. Although some sources present lower disease risks than others, danger of infection by giardia, cryptosporidium, and other contagions is a reality for even the most experienced hikers in any wilderness location.
Filters:[To be completed]
Tablets:[To be completed]
Liquid Chemicals:[To be completed]
No Filter: [To be completed]
4.2 Nutrition
Trail nutrition is a massive topic to cover, so rather two important topics relevant to ‘ultralight’ will be discussed and then links provided.
4.2.1 Macro Ratios
Arguably the most important categories for a hiker to consider are ‘macro’ ratios and the density of calories present in your food. ‘Macro’ nutrients are in reference to Protein, Fat, and Carbohydrates – in basic ways these can be thought of as body maintenance (protein), long term energy (fat/lipids), and short term energy (carbohydrates/sugars). This is a very extensive and subjective matter, so further information should be researched in /r/trailmeals or other secondary sources. Although different trips and conditions call for different macro ratios, the general hierarchy is to emphasize Fat, then Protein, and finally Carbohydrates. Fat will provide the most energetic ‘value’ per weight, while protein is necessary to maintain bodily and muscle function during an extended hike; carbohydrates are often hard to avoid in typical hiking food, so it rarely needs to be focused on.
4.2.2 Caloric Density
Besides ‘macro’ nutrients, another factor to consider is the caloric density of your food. This is simply how many calories are present per ounce of food weight. However, this ignores all other nutritional properties and is a very basal measurement – for example, I could give you just 10oz’s of 244 calorie/oz food per day. You’d hit 2440 calories from just 290g of food! You could be on the trail for weeks and not have to restock! Except in this example the food is Bowhead whale subcutaneous blubber, and is not something that you could realistically persist off of for an extended period of time. That being said, once you understand to look for fat and protein within your food choices, around 120 calories/oz is a goal that most UL hikers shoot for.
- link to tons of trail meals/food options.
4.2.3 No-cook and cold-soaking
To cook or not to cook? Whether or not to bring a stove system for cooking is a personal decision. The same macro nutrients and caloric density can be achieved without having to boil water. A hot meal or drink at the start/end of a long hiking day is not something every person requires, as ingrained as it is within the hiking mentality.
In addition to simply eating food that doesn't require cooking (e.g. nuts, dried fruit, tortillas, salami, Nutella, etc.), most dehydrated meals can be prepared by cold soaking them in a lightweight plastic container or heavy duty ziplock bag. Cold soaking is simply mixing your food with cold water and letting it sit until it is rehydrated.
Popular container choices are listed below. Things to consider when picking a container: weight, volume, sturdiness, lid seal.
If the meal takes a long time to rehydrate in cold water, you can fill up your container and put it an external pocket on your pack to soak while you hike. Lid seal is particularly important for soaking while hiking!
Cold-soak container | Weight | Capacity |
---|---|---|
Ziploc Freezer bag (quart) | 0.20 oz | 946 ml capacity |
Ziploc Freezer bag (gallon) | 0.30 oz | 3785 ml capacity |
Dutchware Bowl Bag | 0.60 oz | 828 ml capacity |
Chinese take-out container | 0.80 oz | 473 ml capacity |
Twist n Loc (small) | 1.00 oz | 473 ml capacity |
Small Skippy Peanut Butter jar | 1.15 oz | 450 ml capacity |
Skippy Peanut Butter jar | 1.75 oz | 750 ml capacity |
Gatorade Powder container | 1.80 oz | 650 ml capacity |
Talenti Gelato jar | 1.90 oz | 473 ml capacity |
Twist n Loc (Ziploc off-brand) | 1.95 oz | 946 ml capacity |
Large Skippy Peanut Butter jar | 2.45 oz | 1000 ml capacity |
Cold-soak recipes
- Dehydrated beans and Fritos (or other high calorie oily corn chip)
- Couscous, nuts and dried cranberries (add tuna if you're fancy, just use your trail mix for the nuts and fruit if you're lazy)
- Oatmeal or muesli and powdered milk
So you're almost convinced, but then you say: "But wait! What about coffee!?". There are two approaches: you can just skip the whole thing and pop a caffeine pill if you need to avoid nasty withdrawal symptoms, or you can make cold coffee. With the caffeine pill approach, you can do pleasant morning where you wake up 20 minutes before you plan to break camp, pop your caffeine pill, go back to sleep, then wake up in 20 minutes when the drugs kick in (credit to the Noodleheads on the Trail Show for this idea). With the cold coffee approach, you need to find an instant coffee that dissolves pretty well in cold water (just shake it up in a water bottle). Starbucks Via seems to work well. Cold instant coffee is still pretty mediocre, but if you shake up a packet of hot cocoa as well, the resulting "iced" mocha is actually pretty tasty. It's a trashy, sugary start to your morning—this ain't fresh ground single origin goodness—but it does the trick.
- Links to no cook choices/opinions
4.4 Campsite Selection
Environmental Considerations - Different regions have different rules as to appropriate (and legal) places to camp in the back country. These regulations are designed to protect the wilderness that we all love. Many meadows and ecosystems are sensitive and placing your tent on top of them can kill plants. Take the time to research the area requirements and the general rules of thumb for conserving the environment. Always follow the Leave No Trace principle of camping on hard surfaces (packed dirt, rocks, sand, etc) and not on living plants regardless of local restrictions.
Condensation Considerations - As noted in the shelter section (below), some shelters deal with condensation better than others. But, everyone agrees that condensation is a pain. Camping on hard surfaces (see above) will generally provide a good foundation for avoiding condensation. Additionally, take note of the wind direction at a potential camp location. Make sure that air is moving through camp in order to keep fresh air in camp and reduce the humidity within your tent.
Storm Considerations - If a storm is probably or even a possibility, it is best to be additionally picky when choosing a campsite. Setting up camp in a location that is not exposed (i.e. not on a ridge, above tree line or on an overlook) will protect you from wind, driving rain and potentially thunderstorms. Select a site within the trees and behind a rock or feature that will shield you from the prevailing wind direction. When in doubt, hike out (if possible).
4.5 Animal & Pest Management
Leave No Trace covers an important policy which, when broken, leads to the death of many animals per year - do not feed wild animals. This includes directly (eg. hand-feeding a fox that enters your campsite) or indirectly (improper disposal of food wastes).
4.5.1 Mosquitoes, Midges and Flies
Mosquitoes and biting flies are an exception to the LNT policy as you will probably feed them regardless, and they will die regardless as well. One of the environmental factors a hiker should look into before a hike is bug pressure, which many weather or government sites cover. It is fine to leave this gear behind if it is not a factor, but when biting insects are present the proper gear will increase trail comfort (either on trail, or sleeping at night).
Gear for this is simple - on trail bug spray for exposed limbs or clothing and a head bug net is normally sufficient. If the area is extremely bad, look into alternate clothing as some clothes prevent bites better than thinner options. For shelters, most will incorporate bug netting within the structure (bivys, tents, tarp tents, hammocks) - a fully modular tarp is where this is not the default. In this case, bug net pyramids can be hung from accessory stick-on loops. Really pushing UL would be wearing a ball cap and head netting to bed, as your sleep system will cover the rest of you, but this system is not for everyone.
DEET vs. Permethrin vs. Picaridin - most bug spray uses DEET in various amounts, which is a very strong chemical capable of damaging various plastics and/or synthetic gear over time, and potentially having adverse health effects (especially at risk are children) - Canada has banned concentrations greater than 30%, while in the USA you can purchase 96%+ without issue. Alternatives to DEET include Permethrin which is used to coat clothing before a hike, or Picaridin which is a similar bug spray with no gear-damaging side effects (efficacy vs. DEET may be lowered).
4.5.2 Bears and Other Macrofauna
In many cases, the fear of bears and wild animals is vastly out of proportion compared to the real world risk. Please note that animals are extremely different anywhere you go around the world. Awareness, risks and avoidance techniques will be equally as varied. It would be smart to do some external research about the animals and risk in the wilderness areas that you plan on hiking in. That being said, the following are different prevention, avoidance and protection techniques that may or may not be applicable to where you plan on hiking.
Prevention and Avoidance - By and large, the best way to avoid a negative encounter with a wild animal is to avoid becoming a target of interest. This can be achieved in a few different ways. Some of the most common ways are bear proof containers, odor resistant bags, hanging food from a tree branch and not cooking in camp. All of these methods have pros and cons.
Bear proof canisters - Commonly referred to as "bear cans", these are hard sided (usually plastic) containers that have been proven to be resistant to a bear's efforts to get the food inside. Bear cans are generally very heavy and cumbersome to carry in a ultralight pack. Often, UL hikers will not carry bear cans unless local wilderness restrictions require them to be used. Popular areas which require bear cans are: Yosemite National Park, Inyo National Forest, Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Park, and Olympic National Park.
Bear bag hangs - Bear bag hanging is another very popular way for people to protect their food from bears. It involves hanging a bag with your food in it from a tall tree branch so that it hangs off the ground higher than a bear could reach. There are different opinions on how high the bag should be, but generally, for black bears 10-12 feet off the ground is preferred. For grizzly bears, that recommended height increases to about 15 feet. Additionally, the bag must be away from the trunk of the tree at least 4 ft. The most popular method for bear bag hanging is known as the "PCT Method". This involves ~50 feet of cordage, a carabiner and a rock thrown over the branch. This is fairly difficult to explain in text so we defer to this YouTube video to explain. It is worth noting that it is very difficult to achieve a proper bear bag hang in the real world. If bears are a legitimate and known threat, then other methods might be more effective.
Ursack - As discussed above, bear cans are heavy, hard and difficult to pack. The Ursack solves (most) of these problems. Ursacks are made of "bulletproof" spectra and kevlar fabric that is highly bear resistant. Instead of hanging, Ursacks are tied to a thick branch or tree truck with the integrated rope. If a bear found it, it could bite, pull, and tear at the sack and it will not (at least as far as anyone knows when used properly and as of this writing) catastrophically fail. The downside is that a bear can mush all of your food inside, but depending on your tolerance levels for bear spit could still be eaten. Also, do note that not all wilderness areas that require bear proof containers have approved the Ursack for use. Do external research in the particular wilderness areas you are going to be hiking before using a Ursack in place of a bear can.
Scent-proof containers - Most commonly seen as heavy duty "scent-proof" ziploc-style bags, these are air-sealable containers made of durable materials. they drastically reduce the scent a food item releases, leaving little for a hungry animal to be interested in. Many animals' noses are hundreds of times more sensitive than a human's, and even food residue can attract unwanted attention, so a scent-free bag is not a foolproof solution, though it can help improve the success of other techniques when used with them.
Sleeping with your food - Believe it or not, but sleeping with you food is a fairly common technique to prevent bears and other animals from bothering you food. The thought process for those who do this is that a bear will not bother to get at food that is underneath another animal (in this case, you). It is actually a rather "animal" behavior in that it communicates ownership of your food. This technique is commonly seen along the Appalachian Trail and on the East Coast. It is highly recommended that you do your own risk analysis and determine if this technique is for you.
Pure avoidance - There are a few other ways that a backpacker can reduce the risk of being bothered by animals. One way is to only camp in non-established campsites away from other campers. This is commonly referred to "dispersed camping". Camping in site that are not known by bears to correlate with hikers and yummy human food can reduce the risk of even being bothered. Another common way to minimize risk of animals is to cook dinner and eat prior to getting to camp. One hiking technique used by many UL hikers is to cook dinner along the trail a few miles prior to camp. This way, no food or cooking is taking place in your campsite. As always, review local restrictions and guidance on the best food handling techniques where you plan to hike.
4.6 Navigation
4.6.1 Basic Concepts
The basics of navigation require a detailed description of the area and a way to orient oneself in both direction and location. Traditionally this was accomplished with a paper topographic map, a magnetic compass, and on occasion an altimeter.
A weak spot was in determining location, a hole now filled by satellite navigation systems. Satellite communications also introduced more robust options for signaling distress and other messaging.
As always, knowledge weighs nothing. Of significant life-saving benefit is both being familiar with various techniques of navigation, and having left a detailed note so that someone else knows your plans and can alert searchers if you don't turn up by a predetermined time.
4.6.2 The Map
High quality topographic maps are often available in many countries, either from official government sources (e.g. the U.S. Geologic Survey) or from open source data (e.g. OpenStreetMap). Many can often be obtained from online sites for low or no cost. They should also be protected from weather, either in a ziplock bag or by printing on waterproof paper.
Maps suitable for navigation should be sufficiently large-scale, often 1:24,000 and usually not smaller (less-detailed) than 1:50,000. They should include topographic lines to determine elevations, a UTM grid to determine positions, and a diagram showing the relative offsets of true north, magnetic north, and grid north. Finally, details in the margin should show the date of the map and datum used.
Often trailhead brochures and maps handed out at ranger stations may lack much of these features, in which case it's worth taking a few minutes to pen in the most critical. On the other hand, full-size maps of a park or region may be far bulkier than necessary. Printing maps out yourself allows you to only include the areas you expect to visit. (Do include a comfortable margin to allow for detours and distinctive features you might care to use as landmarks.)
While storing your map on a smart phone (whether by download or photograph) can be very handy, you should always carry a paper backup of your map in a waterproof container such as a Zip-Loc bag. Even if your phone is waterproof and you carry a spare battery, the weight "penalty" of a single piece of paper is negligible and phones are delicate. Also, avoid printing your paper map with an ink-jet printer; one drop of water could wipe out a critical feature such as a trail junction. Use a laser printer or copier if at all possible.
4.6.3 Compass and Altimeters
A magnetic compass is used to determine direction. Good-quality mirror compasses can be used to find bearings accurage to within ±2.5° by a skilled user, but are heavier at around 75g. A little lighter at 30g but still reasonably accurate with practice are baseplate compasses without a mirror. Small button compasses are as light as 5g, but imprecise (e.g. ±5°-10°). For most users, when only a general location is needed or who want an emergency backup, this may be sufficient. If you will be using the compass as a protractor with your map, or have need of greater accuracy, at least a baseplate model should be used.
Care should be taken to ensure metal objects (large metal watchbands, other electronics, or nearby vehicles) are not next to compasses when taking a bearing. It's also possible for some areas to contain sufficient magnetic ore to affect a compass reading. Electronic compasses, such as those in GPS devices and smartphones, may only be accurate to ±5°-10° at best.
Altimeters measure air pressure and are primarily used to determine elevation above sea level. However, air pressure is also affected by weather and will change over time. A calibrated altimeter will be more accurate than a GPS-derived elevation, but over time may end up noticeably less accurate. Get in the habit of re-calibrating your altimeter at regular intervals and known elevations. This is where a topo map is useful; when you know your location on the map, you can look at the contour lines to determine your actual elevation. A sudden drop in air pressure (and thus apparent increase in elevation) is also an indicator of bad weather moving in. Altimeters are largely carried by travelers in mountainous terrain for both these reasons.
4.6.4 PLBs and Satellite Messengers
Personal Locator Beacons (PLBs) and satellite messengers both use satellites to transmit distress signals, and in the case of the latter, to transmit tracking data and simple text messages. They are distinguished by the satellite network used, the means of fixing location, and their intended use. As they perform similar functions it's rare to carry both types, and instead features such as cost, perceived reliability, expected risk, and communication needs will drive the decision between them.
PLBs
PLBs use the COSPAS-SARSAT system, an international satellite system for search and rescue. They are intended for one-time use in case of dire emergency, after which they must be sent in for the battery to be replaced and the device re-certified for use. The batteries are generally good for 5-6 years, and the only costs are the initial purchase and any fees for battery replacement. The lightest devices weigh about 116g-130g.
PLBs once relied on Doppler locating techniques to fix a beacon's location to within about 5km. Current PLBs now include GPS receivers and can use that information to send coordinates with ±100m of precision. Additionally, PLBs transmit a homing signal that ground teams can use if they have the appropriate equipment (likely in more popular areas).
Distress signals are passed from a ground receiving station to the appropriate mission control center which then alerts rescue authorities for the country the beacon appears to be in, as well as the country in which the beacon is registered. The registration information is also used to identify emergency contacts who may know about your plans, and thus is important to be kept up-to-date.
Satellite Messengers
Satellite messengers are designed with rechargeable batteries and are intended to be used to send tracking points as well as containing a "panic" button. Most allow a few pre-set text messages to be sent as well, and some permit full two-way text communication. Usually, a subscription is required in addition to the initial purchase (Note: This includes use of the SOS button on the devices). Some offer a month-by-month alternative to an annual plan. Their weights range from 100g to 200g.
These devices use a commercial satellite phone network (i.e. GlobalStar or Iridium), and transmit SOS signals to a commercial monitoring service who in turn alerts the appropriate local authorities. (In the U.S. search and rescue is usually the responsibility of the county sheriff.)
These devices do not transmit a short-range homing signal, and are thus fully reliant on getting and transmitting an accurate GPS location in order for the device to be tracked down. On the other hand, the two-way nature of some of these devices allows for better coordination of rescue efforts between rescuers and rescuee (Victim). Also, if tracking points are used, searchers have a chance of locating someone who wasn't able to trigger the distress signal.
4.6.5 GPS Devices
Handheld GPS devices are able to determine their position by listening for very faint satellite signals and doing a bit of math. Most devices also include mapping functionality as well as being able to store locations and tracks. This allows users to "follow the arrow" as they walk to a set destination, or to retrace their steps on a return trip. Devices may range from 140g to 350g in weight with batteries. (GPS watches may be lighter.)
GPS devices, like all satellite devices, require a clear view of the sky and may have difficulty getting a signal in dense foliage or deep canyons. The advantage of a dedicated handheld GPS device over a smartphone GPS lies usually in the type of antenna, which may assist it receiving a signal in adverse conditions.
Maps for GPS devices are often sold by the manufacturer, but it's also possible to obtain them for low or no cost from other sources. The process of loading them may not be immediately straightforward. Users used to modern smartphones may also find the screen resolution and speed to be somewhat poor. Thus, GPS users should be familiar with grid systems, such as the UTM grid (now at least 50 years old), in order to use the device effectively with a paper map, either to confirm their location or ease route-planning.
4.6.6 Smartphones
Modern smartphones incorporate a number of sensors including an electronic compass, GPS receiver, and barometric altimeter. This makes them so much more than just a phone, as none of these sensors are reliant on cell service. As many people already own a phone and may carry it with them, this may present a lighter alternative to carrying additional electronic equipment.
Use of a smartphone requires great care to ensure sufficient battery life such as carrying a spare power bank, being miserly with usage, keeping the phone in airplane mode, and so forth. A comfortable reserve should be maintained in case of mishap.
Smartphone users must also download in advance appropriate apps to make use of those sensors, as well as any maps that will be needed, as often there is no signal in the wilderness. The large, high resolution screens of modern phones are reasonably convenient for viewing maps.
4.7 First Aid
4.7.1 Basic Concepts
Bring what you actually know how to use, and what is realistic for the conditions you will face in a succinct manner.
As the saying goes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Tape up hotspots before they become blisters, keep your shoes on for river crossings, and so forth. The content here is largely about first aid items and less about technique. If possible you should invest in a wilderness first aid or first responder course.
4.7.2 Medications
Obviously, any prescription medications you are currently taking should be included. Beyond those it's common to include over the counter pain relievers, antidiarrheals, antihistamines, and for those with allergies, an epipen. Repacking them into small pill-bags will save weight, in which case it's a good idea to include a small scrap of paper with the name and strength of each item. Check your local laws; in some places repackaging meds (particularly prescription meds) may not be legal. As allergic reactions or drug interactions can occur, consult your doctor and the product labeling before use. Common medications in first aid kits include:
- Ibuprofen: an NSAID, for pain and inflammation
- Acetaminophen (paracetamol): pain and fever reducer
- Loperamide: antidiarrheal
- Diphenhydramine: antihistamine for acute allergic reactions and sometimes as a sleep aid
- Aspirin: an NSAID, for headaches, also an anti-platelet (inhibits clotting).
Note that NSAIDS (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs) should not be combined with each other (risk of excess dosage). Acetaminophen (not an NSAID) is metabolized differently, which is why you will sometimes see it in combination with an NSAID (Example: Excedrin, which combines aspirin and acetaminophen). Be careful not to exceed recommended dosages, particularly with acetaminophen.
4.7.3 Tools
Common first aid tools may already be accounted for in your repair kit.
- small tweezers: removing splinters, ticks, and other irritations
- small scissors: cutting tape, bandages, etc. to size
- medical tape: covering hot spots, taping joints, securing bandages
- nitrile gloves: in case you need to treat someone else
- razor blade: similar usage as the scissors
Note: While thin tape takes up less space, wider tape is often more practical to use, and you can usually fit other items inside the roll (such as gloves).
4.7.4 Wound Dressings
Wound care can range from comfort treatment of small cuts to treating massive lacerations. Common items carried for wound care include:
- Bandaids (plasters): perfect for keeping small cuts from making a mess or getting dirty.
- Gauze pads: in squares from 2x2 to 4x4 inches (100x100 or 50x50 mm), good for covering larger wounds.
Larger items that may be worth carrying include roller gauze for securing wound dressings and vet wrap or elastic bandage for stabilizing joints.
4.7.5 Technique
Wound Care
Wounds should be thoroughly cleaned to prevent infection. Use of antiseptics such as povidone-iodine or hydrogen peroxide solutions is not necessary and may even have an adverse impact on wound healing. Instead, wounds should be irrigated with large amounts of clean water. Water safe for drinking will suffice.
First aid kits often include a small (35 mL?) syringe in order to provide sufficient water pressure. Be careful to ensure you don't drive bacteria deeper into a wound (remember, you're trying to flush it out) so flush it at an angle, and also be careful not to get splashed from the spray. Eye protection is always wise, particularly when treating others.
Wounds that are large, exceptionally dirty, ragged, expose bones or ligaments, or would leave a void under the skin (fertile ground for bacteria) should not be closed. Instead, pack them wet-to-dry with sterile gauze and get to better care.
Clean, inspect, and change wound dressings at least once daily. An exception is transparent film dressings, which may be left in place as the wound heals. When using gauze, the layer in contact with the wound should be the "non-adherent" type.
Blisters
Caring for blisters is critical to the overall health of your feet and ultimately the success of your trip. The best way to deal with blisters is to avoid them as best you can. There are many different things that you can do to reduce the chances of developing a blister. The first, and arguably, the most important is to get good fitting shoes! Do not order shoes online without trying them on in person before hand. No number of reviews or recommendations will be enough to get a shoe that works for your foot. See the footwear section for more information. Beyond good fitting shoes, here are some tips to keep you feet blister free and healthy:
Prevention Tips:
Address any "hot spots" as soon as you notice them! Do not ignore hot spots in your shoes! Don't tell yourself that you will make it up the next hill first and then will address it. No, you really need to stop as soon as you notice a hot spot! A hot spot (best described as a warm feeling in a particular spot on your foot) is your feet telling you that they are being abraded and something needs to change. Take off your shoes and socks and figure out what is causing the hot spot. Use any number of the following tips to address a problem hot spot.
If you are blister prone, pre-tape your feet before you begin hiking! People have different tape methodologies and products that they swear by, but the most common are leukotape P, moleskin, band-aids, and duct tape. The best option is probably leukotape P as it is very sticky and breathable. Tape problem areas with a single layer of tape when your feet are dry and clean and then place your socks on.
Tie your shoes to eliminate any slippage. Movement inside your shoe is the enemy of happy feet. Play around with different shoe tying methods to help lock down your shoes and eliminate any slipping within. Check out this article on "lace locks".
Keep dirt and sand out of your shoes as much as possible. Wearing lightweight trail running gaiters while hiking helps reduce the amount of bits of sand and dirt that gets into your shoes. Dirt will increase the amount of friction on your feet which leads to blisters. Empty your shoes often and shake out your socks at least once a day.
Let you feet breath! Try to let your feet breath for an hour in the evening (whether you are in your tent or around a campfire). Take your shoes and socks off and give some attention to your feet. Letting you feet completely dry off will help prevent your skin from breaking down over multiple day trips. This is especially important when hiking in dirty and hot environments. Keeping your feet clean is an important step in preventing blisters.
Consider wearing liner socks. Some people who are prone to blisters swear by wearing a thin sock underneath their regular hiking wool socks. The liner sock prevents friction from occurring directly against your skin. There are some fancy, purpose-built liner socks that you can buy, but thin nylon dress socks work just as well. Also, if you struggle with toe blisters, consider a thin pair of Injinji toe socks to wear as a liner layer.
Treatment Tip:
If you are wondering what to do if you get a blister, continue reading; however, do note that this may get a little graphic. Alright, so you got a blister, you are three days from your car and you have three more days of hiking ahead of you. This might not be the best option for everyone, but this is a old hiking tips that has helped many blistered hikers in the past. What you need to do is drain the blister. What you want to avoid is having exposed skin while backpacking. The method that many hikers use to deal with this situation is called, "threading" a blister. You will need a needle and 4-6 inches of thread. First, sanitize the sewing needle using your stove, lighter or hand sanitizer. Thread the needle with as small of a knot as you can (your pain threshold will thank me). Then, take the needle and push it through your blister and pull it out the other side leaving the thread going through your blister. Cut the needle off and leave the thread in your blister. It is best to do this right before bed so that you can leave it in overnight. The thread will allow the puss inside your blister to weep out. In the morning, your blister will be flat (if everything went well). You can now pull out the thread from your blister. What this has done is allowed the blister skin to remain protecting the raw skin underneath. This is very difficult to achieve by popping or cutting a blister. Keep a close eye on the blister and watch for any signs of infection. If in doubt, hike out.
4.8 Repair Kits
Sleeping Pads - It is recommended that if you use an inflatable sleeping pad, you carry the repair kit often provided. It could avoid a very uncomfortable night, but more importantly, a pad is an insulating layer and without it, you could be dangerously cold in the night.
Tents - Some people choose to carry a patch kit for there tent. It is worth noting that if the tent is silnylon, you could repair the tent with the same pad repair kit mentioned above. UL is about only taking what you need and looking for multiuse gear is always preferable. A handy thru hiker tip to fix a leaky ridgeline or seam on a silnylon tent is to smear some chapstick or vaseline onto the leaky location. It won't fix a tear, but it could help temporarily patch a bad seam seal or pin hole. If your shelter is made of DCF (formerly known as Cuben Fiber, see shelter section for more details), you should consider bringing small sections of DCF repair tape. DCF is very easy to repair in the field and it is best to repair it as soon as possible in order to avoid runs. Repairs made with DCF tape are generally permanent and don't need any further maintenance.
4.9 Group Hiking
A good way to reduce pack weight is to share gear between a group of hikers and to minimize the amount of redundant gear being brought. An easy way to reduce weight between two hikers is to split up their shelter. One person takes the rain fly and the other takes the inner. Obviously, this is only possible with a double wall shelter, but you see the point. Limit the amount of pots, stoves, water filters, cordage, emergency and other gear down to what is necessary for the group as a whole.
4.10 Multi Use Equipment
4.11 Cleanliness
Pooping - The role of the 'hiking' section was not to tell people how to hike, and similarly this section is not for telling people how to poop. But do you truly know all the steps required for a LNT-worthy (or close to it) ...'waste disposal session'? This topic is already professionally and fully covered in this article.
Female Hygiene
Menstruation: The vast majority of backpackers who menstruate use menstrual cups, which are a fantastic ultralight solution: you carry one item for your entire period, generate no trash, can leave it in for up to 12 hours, and can clean it using materials you're probably already carrying. By far the best material for a backpacking menstrual cup is silicone, because it can be easily sterilized by boiling.
You can get advice on picking a specific one for your body on r/menstrualcups. It's helpful to practice using the cup in the front country so you get used to putting it in, taking it out, and emptying it. You'll also learn what you personally need to do in terms of cleaning the cup. Some people wash it every time they empty it, but many people just empty it and put it back in. At the end of the cycle, some people just wash with soap and water and air dry, while others boil it to sterilize before it goes back in the pack.
Another ul solution to menstruation is to just not menstruate on trail, which takes medical intervention (or reliable scheduling). Some people take birth control pills continuously to skip the withdrawal bleed. Others use the Mirena hormonal IUD, which usually reduces menstruation to spotting.
If you're using disposable menstrual supplies, make sure to practice LNT by packing out all used pads/tampons and properly protecting them from bears/critters.Pee hygiene: Some people find drip drying to be sufficient, but others find themselves getting smelly without wiping. (Note: always wipe from front to back to avoid introducing bacteria from the anus into the vagina, which can cause bacterial vaginosis, yeast infections, etc.)
There are a handful of ul methods to wipe:
1) Natural materials: rocks, leaves, sticks. Just make sure you're able to identify any irritating plants (poison oak is one of the most common plants in Northern California) before you use plants.
2) Pee rag: cut a bandana in half and hang it off your pack, then use it to wipe when you pee. There are lots of write-ups on pee rag use out there. Key points: they work best in dry climates; it's helpful to rinse them regularly, especially in damp climates; they sound gross but they really really aren't. There are purpose-made versions like the Kula cloth if you find a plain cotton bandana unsatisfying.
3) Back country bidet: there's a write-up from a man's perspective here: https://andrewskurka.com/pooping-in-the-outdoors-part-4-the-backcountry-bidet/ You can also use a squirt bottle when you pee and wait to dry, but that can be time-consuming. If using a bidet, make sure not to splash back to front.
Trash - Pack it out or fully burn it and scatter the ashes (but really just pack it out) and Do not bury it! Re: Burning trash. You can do this with some paper packaging and paper based products. Some people burn the wax paper pouches that instant oatmeal comes in, for instance, or tea bag packaging. Do note that plastics and metals should never be burned, including aluminized plastic pouches that freeze dried meals come in. These trash items do not burn completely and leave plastic and metal residue behind. Unfortunately, many people still do this despite it being very much not in line with Leave No Trace principles. It's a pain in the ass, but really everyone should be packing trash out.
Soap - A common misconception is that biodegradable soap is good (or at least not bad) for the environment. Biodegradable just means that overtime, relative to normal soap, it will eventually break down in the environment at a faster pace. It is still soap, and does break Leave No Trace (LNT) policy if used in water sources. Proper LNT practices require disposal of biodegradable soap in a hole 200ft from a water source. Alternatives include hand sanitizer and wet wipes for personal use (carry them out), or use pine duff and other natural sources to clean dishes.
5. Reducing Pack Weight II: Equipment
5.1 Sleep System
A Sleep system traditionally consists of a warmth layer (usually a down sleeping bag or quilt) and a cushion layer (usually a closed cell foam or insulated pad).
Sleeping bags / Quilts - Sleeping bags are what you typically associate with backpacking. Often called "mummy bags", they are fully enclosed bags made of down or synthetic insulation. Ultralight sleeping bags are available from multiple manufacturers and generally use very light shell materials and high quality insulation. Quilts are similar to sleeping bags but are not fully enclosed. They forgo a backside in order to reduce weight and materials. In a traditional sleeping bag, insulation below you is compressed, reducing its effectiveness in keeping you warm. Because of this, quilts are not inherently colder than sleeping bags and are usually quite comparable for less weight. Ultralight sleeping bags and quilts generally weigh less than two pounds with quilts generally being the lighter option of the two (with some expensive exceptions). See section 7.0 for ultralight sleeping bags and quilt manufacturers.
Sleeping Pads - Sleeping pad are a very personal choice. Ultralight sleeping pads are usually made out of closed cell foam or are inflatable (with your breath) pads. Sleeping pads are used for two major reasons. The first and obvious reason is comfort. The second, but arguably most important reason is they provide insulation from the cold ground. The warmth of sleeping pads (and other insulating materials fyi) are measured in R-Values. The higher the R-Value of a sleeping pad, the more insulation it will provide. Sleeping pads are generally considered an essential and few go without. A general rule of thumb for R-values is an R-Value of roughly 3.0 or higher is sufficient for three season backpacking and an R-Value of 5.0 or greater is generally sufficient for winter backpacking. An important note is that the total R-Value of two pads stacked on top of eachother is simply the combined R-Values of each pad in the system. For instance, a Neo-Air Xlite (R-3.2) on top of a Zlite Sol (R-2.6) equals a combined R-Value of 5.8, which would be sufficient for mild winter and snow trips.
5.2 Shelter System
Ultralight shelters, utilize minimalist and simple designs and modern materials in order to create shelter which protect backpackers from the elements without weighing them down. Common fabrics include Dyneema Composite (formerly Cuben Fiber. But is still casually referred to as "Cuben") and SilNylon (of various denier) which is silicone impregnated nylon.
The main categories of shelters include:
Tents - Tents are the de facto shelter option for many backpackers. Tents can come in endless varieties of configurations, fabrics, pole setup and occupancy. Whether or not the tent is a double wall tent versus a single wall tent is generally the most polarizing difference between tent shelter design.
"Double wall" vs. "single wall" is an indication of the structural design of a tent. Double wall tents are "double" in that the tent is comprised of an outer, often rain proof fabric layer and an inner, usually bug proof fabric layer. A familiar example of this is your typical Coleman tent or the very popular REI Quarter Dome tent. Double wall tents can often be pitched with either the inner portion alone or both the inner and outer layers together. The major benefit of this design is that it offers protection from the elements and bugs while still being modular enough to adapt to different conditions and climates. Additionally, a good lightweight double wall tent can be relatively inexpensive making it a solid choice for new backpackers. The most prominent downside of double wall tents is that they tend to be heavier than their single wall counterparts and can be more complicated in their design. Often dedicated tent poles and a handful of tent stakes are required which adds additional weight and complexity to this shelter design.
"Single wall" tents are comprised of one, single layer of fabric which is used to enclose the shelter. Often, the single layer is constructed with a waterproof (or treated) fabric which negates the need for an additional rain fly like double wall tents require. Single wall tents are much more simple in their design and often use high-end lightweight fabrics compared to double wall tent designs. Because of this, single wall tents are generally a lighter option for a shelter. While single wall tents are often very lightweight, their weight savings do come with a few key trade offs. The most prominent trade off is condensation performance. Double wall tents manage condensation by keeping the waterproof, non-breathable, layer on the outside away from the inner tent and your body inside. Additionally, double wall tents tend to breath better by nature of their design which can prevent condensation from forming in the first place. Condensation can be a significant issue in a single wall tent and the environment in which you typically hike should be taken into consideration before selecting one. Generally, single wall tents are not recommended for those in humid climates (The American South East for example).
Double and single wall tents can be either "free standing" or "non-free standing" in their design. A free standing tent indicates that it is self-supported and does not require it be staked down in order to be pitched. Free standing tents are typically easier to setup than non-free standing tents. Site selection is not as difficult with a free standing tent as being able to push a stake into the ground is not critical to the tent being able to be pitched. Non-free standing tents require stakes to be driven into the ground in order to be correctly pitched. Due to this, it is critical that tent stakes can be driven into the ground in order for the tent to stand. Exceedingly rocky or hard ground can make pitching a non-free standing tent very difficult.
Tarps - Includes pyramid tarps, rectangular/square shape tarps, or tarp tents. Tarps in a non-hammock setup are typically suspended using trekking poles and guylines with stakes. Using and properly pitching a tarp requires more knowledge and experience compared to a regular tent shelter. Each tarp shelter is different in its characteristics necessary to have a proper pitch. Becoming familiar with your tarp prior to going out on a trip for the first time is highly recommended. Site selection (section 4.4) is much more critical when using a tarp shelter. Improper site selection can leave you exposed to the elements which could up end getting your sleeping bag wet or make for a very windy night.
Bivys - Bivys (short for bivouac) often resemble a waterproof, fully enclosed sleeping bag covers. Bivys are popular shelters for alpinists and backcountry ski touring as they are lightweight and can provide life saving shelter from the elements in an emergency situation. They are usually made of the same water resistant and breathable materials as traditional tents and tarps but are typically very stripped down and only have room for one person. Fully waterproof bivys are mostly recommended for cold climates and alpine conditions as they do not typically breath very well. Some manufacturers offer "bug bivy's" which typically consist of a solid floor and an enclosed bug net that is used around your sleeping bag. If rain is expected, a bug bivy can be combined with a lightweight tarp to provide a ultralight, rain and bug proof shelter while still offering a lot of breathability.
Hammocks - Similar to normal hiking hammocks (ie. a full suspension system is still necessary), UL hammocks offer the same setups with lighter materials. A full loadout will often include a rain tarp, cordage, tarp stakes, hammock straps, and possibly a ridge line. An underquilt and a sleeping pad are good idea in most conditions as conductive heat loss through your backside is a large factor in a hammock. Check out /r/hammockcamping for more detailed, hammock specific information!
5.3 Clothing System
The clothing system that each hiker chooses to use while backpacking is a very personal and individual decision. This is a difficult section to give advice given the large variances in weather, climate, flora and fauna, terrain, etc that each hiker experiences. There are however some key tenants that should be kept in mind when deciding on a ultralight clothing system.
The reason that this is a "system" is that every piece of clothing that is brought serves a purpose individually and to the rest of your clothing as a whole. The goal with an ultralight clothing system is to reduce the amount of overlap between different pieces of clothing that you bring. Once you have eliminated overlap, you then work to determine the lightest possible choices that are reasonable given the conditions.
Very few ultralight backpackers have one, set in stone clothing system. This is because each trip is different and careful consideration of the weather and conditions influence the particular choices in clothing for that trip. For example, a week long trip in the notoriously wet Olympic National Park in Washington State requires a much different clothing system than a week long trip on the Florida Trail. While each piece of gear changes, likely, the categories of the clothing do not. The following are common layers to a typical modular ultralight backpacking clothing system:
Hiking top - This is the top that you hike in throughout the day. Many people choose to wear long sleeve button up athletic shirts (usually nylon or polyester). These are popular because they are very adaptable to different conditions. If it is hot, they breath very well. If it is chilly, you can roll down the sleeves. Other popular options are running shirts, lightweight merino wool, and thrift shop dress shirts. This layer usually changes the least from condition to condition. Many people have a favorite hiking shirt and wear that at all times. A good thing to note is that unless you are in the desert, avoid wearing cotton shirts (or any cotton article of clothing for that matter). Cotton has zero warmth when wet and becomes very heavy and uncomfortable which is best to avoid. This layer is usually best optimized by choosing what you are comfortable in.
Hiking bottoms - This is the bottoms that you hike in throughout the day. Most ultralight backpackers choose to wear lightweight running shorts. These breath well, dry quickly and are easy to move fast in. This layer changes a lot depending on the conditions for most people. If you are in the desert, consider protecting yourself from the sun and wearing lightweight cotton/nylon/polyester pants. This is another layer that is really best optimized by choosing what you are comfortable in.
Hiking Underwear and Socks - Again, a very personal choice, but this is the layer that you wear while hiking. There are an endless number of synthetic and wool underwear manufacturers / designs out there. Choose what is comfortable to you (so long as it is not cotton) and roll with it. As for socks, we usually try to stay manufacture neutral in this wiki, but this is the exception. One word, Darn Tough socks. Okay, that was three words but these socks are seriously the best out there. They are made of merino wool which has awesome odor fighting and temperature regulating properties. They have a no questions asked guarantee where if you wear a hole in their socks, they will send you a new pair. If you don't choose Darn Tough, there are many other wool sock manufacturers out there to choose from.
Rain Gear - This is the first of the layers we have talked about that usually sits in your pack. Because of this, ultralight backpackers are constantly on the lookout for the lightest weight rain jackets that will actually keep you dry. There are a few different philosophies on how to tackle rain gear. The most important thing to note is that given sustained rain, you are going to get wet, no matter what. With that being said, how do you maximize comfort while it is raining with protection from the elements? This is where the philosophies begin to separate. Some people choose to go the full on three layer rain jacket route and others decide on the umbrella and a light poncho approach. Think about the chance of rain that you will see during your trip and decide upon how much protection you truly need. If you are expecting cold temps and rain most days, you probably want as much protection as possible. If you are hiking in the middle of summer and the forecast is 75F and sunny all week? You probably could get by with a emergency rain poncho or a wind shell with DWR.
Warmth Layer - Warmth layers are again, usually in your pack. Because of this, ultralight backpackers are constantly on the lookout for the lightest warmth layers as possible that still provides adequate warmth. The most popular choice in this category is some type of down jacket. Down compresses very well and can be manufactured into extremely light and warm jackets. The downside (haha) to down is that it is not breathable so typically, down jackets are very poor layers if you expect to be hiking while wearing them. For this, there is fleece. Fleece generally weighs a bit more than down; however, if it breathes better and if it gets wet, it stays warm. If you expect wet days with moderately fair temps, fleece is probably a better choice than down. There is also synthetic puffy insulation which offers a compromise between the pros and cons of fleece and down. Historically, synthetic jackets have been bulky and heavy, but recent items in the 8-10oz range make them much more appealing.
Base Layer / Sleeping Clothes - Many ultralight hikers choose to leave baselayers and separate sleep clothes behind and sleep in their hiking clothes. Two conditions commonly warrant bringing baselayers or sleep clothes: if it's super cold you might need baselayers to stay warm or, if it's going to be wet for days on end, having a set of sleep clothes that you always keep dry can be desirable. Generally though, sleep clothing is unnecessary for ultralight, three season backpacking.
5.3.1 Clothing Examples
Here are three common setups for upper body insulation many backpackers on this subreddit use in most 3-season backpacking in the United States:
- 8-12oz fleece, 6-7oz rain jacket
- 2-4oz windshirt, 8-12oz puffy (synthetic is popular if the conditions are wet), 6-7oz rain jacket
- 8-12oz fleece, 8-12oz puffy (down or synthetic), 6-7oz rain jacket
In option 1, your fleece serves as your active insulation layer, and your resting insulation is your fleece + your raincoat. If it's too cold to hang out in just your fleece and raincoat, you will need to either keep walking or get in your sleeping bag. This option prioritizes active insulation. It is also the cheapest of the three approaches due to the availability of super cheap 100-weight fleece on sale and at thrift stores, and the budget friendly Frogg Toggs Ultra-lite2 Rain Jacket.
In option 2, a windshirt serves as your active insulation, and a puffy serves as your stop insulation. As it is your only insulation layer, using a synthetic puffy is a more conservative choice if you expect rain or high humidity. This option prioritizes stop insulation, and relies on a light windshirt and hiking fast to stay warm while moving.
Option 3 is the heaviest, warmest, and most versatile. It is appropriate for a wider variety of hiking styles and weather conditions, but is heavier than the first two options.
All three options are compatible with an ultralight style of backpacking as long as you are making intentional choices about the trip you are taking. There is unfortunately no, "do everything in all conditions" clothing setup.
5.4 Footwear & Trekking Poles
Trekking Poles - Trekking poles are by no means essential; however, many hikers find them useful. Trekking poles can help maintain hiking momentum, add stability, assist on inclines and decrease shock on declines. Trekking poles can also help people with bad backs and/or knees. There are different styles and features of trekking poles currently on the market. The biggest differences between trekking poles are how they are adjusted / secured. "Flick lock" trekking poles have a leaver that is clamped down to fix a pole to the desired length. "Twist lock" poles twist to tighten down into place once set in the desired length. The vast majority of hikers would recommend avoiding twist lock trekking poles as they can be finicky, difficult to repair in the field and overall a pain.
A note on trekking pole shelters. Some ultralight shelters require trekking poles in order to pitch. This is usually to avoid having to carry separate tent poles. Many of these shelters can use a replacement carbon fiber or aluminum pole if you do not hike with trekking poles. Check manufacturer specifics when assessing this feature.
Footwear - Footwear is a very personal category that is actually quite difficult to advise on. The general consensus among the ultralight community is that trail running shoes are superior to traditional backpacking footwear (i.e. boots). The reason being that they are lighter, dry quicker, often more comfortable and often easier to pound out high mileage. There is a common saying, "a pound on your feet equals five on your back." What this means is that a few ounces added to your footwear will wear you out as much as five times the weight would added to your back. If you think about it, you are lifting the weight of your shoe every step and over the course of 10-20 miles a day that weight adds up.
Anecdotal note: For those who think that serious backpacking can't be done in trail runners, the vast majority of hikers hiking the PCT (2,650 miles from Mexico to Canada), the Appalachian Trail (2,200 miles from Georgia to Maine) and the Continental Divide Trail (3,100 miles from Mexico to Canada) wear trail runners and lightweight footwear.
Do note that a hiker switching from boots directly to trail runners should give themselves an ample transition period to get use to the more "exposed" nature of trail runners. We really want to stress that footwear is a personal choice and you must select what works for you. That isn't to say that you shouldn't try footwear outside of your "box", but be careful and listen to your body.
5.5 Luxury Items
There are multiple philosophies when it comes to luxury items. Many people in /r/Ultralight believe that ultralight backpacking is about taking what you need and nothing else. Getting rid of luxury items is path towards ultralight for many UL backpackers. However, others carry ultralight gear in order to comfortably bring more "luxuries" or hobby items with them on trips.
If you subscribe to the latter UL philosophy, common luxuries involve the hobbies and interests people have. Items may include alcohol, sleep aids (pillows, warmer clothes/quilts/pads/more alcohol), photography gear, heavier food, musical instruments, added clothing, fishing gear, toys for children, electronics, books, pack rafts, climbing gear, etc.
Not every luxury item is hobby-based, but rather if someone desires extra sleeping comfort they can bring a warmer sleeping quilt, a thicker sleeping pad, or a pillow. If more time is spent in camp, a luxury item may include a set of camp shoes, a sitting pad or chair, and a bottle of whiskey (which can be argued to be a foundational item).
There are many deviations from the base hiking framework, including gear choices and intended goals of your trip. It can be as simple as the goal of your trip being to fly fish or capture some beautiful photography. Every item carried, including the Big Three, is a personal choice for every hiker, but these luxury items are in addition to the base requirements for a safe hike.
5.6 Gear Modifications
A stock piece of gear may not arrive out of the box in a condition that is exactly what the hiker needs or desires. These modifications can include adding to an item, such as extra tie-outs, reinforcements, or accessory loops for a shelter, or reducing aspects of an item (which is more applicable towards UL hiking). This includes the iconic action of cutting your tooth brush in half.
This seems silly at first, but raises two important points: (1) UL hikers question everything about their gear, and this includes "if I can reach my back molars without putting my fingers in my mouth with half a tooth brush, why do I need the rest of the handle?" (this is one example, but is the same thought process that should lead to questioning excess aspects of gear) and (2) a factor that should be considered a sister metric to weight for UL hikers is volume. The value of gear modifications should be considered when they reduce weight, reduce volume, and/or add function. Another common example is reducing a sleeping pad from full length to torso length in 3-season conditions, as most of the lower extremities do not actually touch the sleeping pad (especially if a backpack or other item is used to elevate the feet).
6.0 Cold Weather / Winter Hiking
First off if your SOW doesn't increase in the winter you are a wizard, your 3 season weight is too heavy, or you live somewhere without a harsh winter.
6.1 Winter Sleep System
Reviewing the fact that many forms of insulation (most notably: down) will not work when the loft is compressed, your pad insulation (r-value) is going to be increasingly important as the temperatures drop. A common practice is to layer two pads together to get a high enough r-value, however you can of course have a dedicated pad. A similar layering system is often used with quilts.
It's important to find out how the quilt/bag you use is rated. Usually, you can find out if the company is using a survival cold rating or a comfort cold rating. This will help you make comparisons between brands and hopefully help you have a better winter hike experience. Don't hesitate to contact the company if the information is not readily available. Keep your sleep system as dry as possible throughout the day (easy) and throughout the night.
Sleeping in a fresh (dry) set of clothing/layers is a common recommendation. If you're quilt/bag's foot box is not sufficient for keeping your feet warm consider wearing insulated booties. Additional methods include eating a large, fatty meal before bed and using heated water bottles, heated rocks, or non-CO2 heaters.
Leaving your coldest items outside the tent can also help.
6.2 Winter Shelter
Many experienced ultralight users continue to use tarpa and UL shelters in the snow and cold. However, if the snowy weather is not just cold but also incredibly windy or dumping lots of snow, these shelter systems (as well as many tents that claim to be winter or 4 season tents) will often collapse under the weight of the snow blown/dropped onto them. In such conditions you need a really solid tent, usually classified as a mountaineering winter tent; luckily there are ultralight options available. If the conditions merit it, get up during the night and shake off or un-bury your tent as many times as needed. Learn and be familiar with how to "stake" your shelter out in the snow. Methods can be found in the additional winter resources section below.
6.3 Arctic Clothing System
The clothing system is about the same as a regular clothing system except usually bulkier. Staying dry becomes a life or death factor in arctic temperatures. If you're gear gets soaked (from the inside or outside) you will likely lose the ability to maintain your body heat. Thus ventilation and waterproofing are essential. You need to make sure that your DWR is not worn down letting water in from the outside and that you aren't sweating so much that you're gear insulation drops in effectiveness.
The majority of winter campers will be using an insulated hard shell exterior with mechanical vents and wicking layers beneath. A small minority will be using an arctic softshell against bare skin or with a very thin mesh garment beneath. The softshell system excels if the climate is dry but fails in conditions that are very wet (ie: arctic sea spray). When planning your clothing system remember that in some areas, especially high altitude, temperatures can drop rapidly.
6.4 Winter Footwear
Winter footwear is going to be highly variable and take some research. How deep is the snow? How fast are you moving? How cold is the region? In a dry moderate climate, someone with a warm body might get away with using the same shoes they use during the summer. With snow and ice you start to need gaiters and spikes or crampons. In deeper powdery snow, you might start to need Kanjiki or snowshoes.
Insulation needs obviously increase with the intensity of the cold. A thin sock liner can help with wicking moisture slightly away from the skin. Over the liner, you add an insulated sock. Optionally you can use a vapor barrier between the two layers (similarly a latex or nitrile glove can be used inside your gloves).
Find a boot that is rated for the temperatures and activities your hike requires and make sure it's compatible with any additional equipment you'll be using like spikes/crampons/snowshoes.
6.5 Cooking
Those using a traditional isobutane gas canister stove will need to remember that in colder temps (below 30F), the canister will not perform as well as it does in three season conditions. Isobutane canisters can still be used in freezing temperatures in some cases as they can be used upside down (i.e., inverted). Only specific remote canister stoves can be used in this way. Check with your stove's manufacturer to validate if it can be used inverted.
White Gass stoves have been around for quite a long time. Though they are not as popular as they once were, they still are a great option for winter backpacking. White gas stoves are not affected by the cold like isobutane canisters are (as noted above). They are fuel efficient, very powerful and relatively easy to maintain in the field. They do have a lot of moving parts though, so be sure that your stove is functional before you leave on your trip. Having redundant stove systems is generally recommended in winter situations.
Propane on the other hand, doesn't liquefy until -43F. Propane stoves (e.g., those green Coleman canisters) are not generally used for backpacking. This is because they are quite heavy! However, in the winter, the benefits of propane may be desired to some. Some isobutane stoves can be adapted to use these propane canisters. This is generally not "officially" supported by any manufacturer, but adapters exist and do work. Do so at your own risk.
It is important to consider that melting snow takes additional fuel and time. If your only water source on a trip will be snow, ensure you bring enough fuel!
Some water filters, most notably the popular Sawyer Squeeze will be ruined if they freeze. In below freezing temperatures, you should keep these types of filters close to your body to keep them warm.
6.6 Additional Winter Resources
7.0 Gear Manufacturers
This list is intended to give new hikers and those beginning in the Ultralight world some bearing of where to begin looking at gear. The UL gear market has many "cottage companies" that do not have the same name recognition that the big dogs of the outdoor gear market have. Additionally, much of the best ultralight gear cannot be found at your local REI or outdoor shop so additional resources to find these manufacturers are helpful. Please note that the following list is curated by this community and no manufacture has paid to be on this list.
7.1 Shelters
7.2 Backpacks
7.3 Sleeping Bags / Quilts
7.4 Known Problem Companies
This is a list of companies who are known to have issues with customer service, workmanship, scamming customers and/or other questionable business ethics. Purchasing from these companies is done at your own risk and you should not expect to get any support if things go sideways, you have been warned.
Luke's Ultralight - Closed Shop as of 2018 - Good workmanship but historical problems with non-delivery of products and no communication.
Little River Packs - Non-delivery of products and no communication
Bear Paw Wilderness Designs - They had problems in the past but recent experiences seem okay. Just be careful.
8.0 Resources
Listed herein are multiple resources that the /r/ultralight community considers extremely valuable. All resources within this section are curated by the community, are not paid "slots" and not listed in any particular order. Please note that websites may include affiliate links and might generate revenue for their owner(s).
8.1 Spreadsheets
8.2 Books
"The Epicurean Backpacker's Cookbook" by Flat Cat Gear eBook
"The Ultimate Hiker's Gear Guide v2" by Andrew Skurka
"The Ultimate Ultralight Backpacking Book" by Steve Green eBook
"Trail Life" by Ray Jardine
"Trail Tested" by Justin "Trauma" Lichter
"Ultralight Backpackin' Tips" by Mike Clelland
8.3 Blogs / Websites
UL Backpackers
People not hiking...
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