I have a shed with a huge window (5'x6') that needs replacing. But it's just a shed, and I'm just doing plexiglass. I figure four panes, so wood around the outside and a cross in the middle. Just cut dadoes into some 1x1 and slide the acrylic in there. (I'm not sure yet about how I'll join the wood).

My main question is: what dimensions should I choose, for the wood, the dado, and the acrylic thickness?

Here's a sketch to make it more clear. The shed has an interior casing in place already, so that's basically a wooden frame, 4" deep. I'll put what I make right inside that.

What I'm picturing right now is 1x1 wood all around, 3/16" acrylic for the "glass", and then ... half an inch deep dado? Quarter inch?

One problem is that the inner cross of wood (muntins?) needs to accept two panes of plexi, so two half-inch dadoes in one inch of wood just cuts it in half. But it would look dumb for the inner cross to be thicker than the outer frame. So can I get away with quarter inch dadoes? Or should I make the whole wood frame 2x2 or 2x1 instead?

Four panes seems like the right balance of work and money (one five-foot-by-six-foot pane would cost a ton).

This is a back yard shed, so I'd like the window to survive maybe a tennis ball or a frisbee hitting it. Not trying to be bulletproof.

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15 comments

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approved submitter

3 hours ago

woodworking

DIY workstation with storage for pocket hole jig.

youtu.be/2pwN-N...

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3 comments

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Posted by7 hours ago

home improvement

diy blown in insulation question for first timer. 100+ year old home.

i have a quick question about the project i am working on. I have framed in an attic / loft space and put r22 rockwool insulation in the walls and ceiling. i want to blow in to achieve r50 in the attic/ceiling.

this old house only has 2 vents to the outside in the attic (gable ends), no vents from the soffits or anything like that. on the loped portion on the attic ceiling there is a air gap behind the insulation.

When I blow the insulation is it okay to blue all the way to the edges? If i do that on the sloped sides I will be essentially trapped air in there that has no way out. hopefully this makes sense.

dos the air behind the sloped walls/ceiling ned to be able to get to the top of the attic to vent out? or can i simply blow insulation and cover the entire flat portion of the attic?

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38 comments

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Posted by3 hours ago

woodworking

Do I need wood support for the red area in this drywall patch?

I will be using plywood in the blue square area where there is no stud support. wondering if I also need it in the red area as well image for reference

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10 comments

757

Posted by22 hours ago

outdoor

My start to finish deck build!

My wife and I moved into a house in the fall of 2020. Like most new builds, ours did not come with a deck. I found a company that helped with plans and drawings, ordered material through them, and had them come out to hang the ledger board and installing the helical piers. The rest of the work was done by me, myself, and I. Overall, it was a great experience. Plenty of head scratches and last minute Google/YouTube searches, but overall we’re thrilled with how it turned out.

Deck measures 12’x20’ with a 4’ stair kick out. Used synthetic material called Decktorators. All in all it took me 3.5 months, but in total probably 40-60 man hours to build it on nights/weekends.

Thankful to my wife and neighbors for their patience in looking at an eyesore deck build project, but I saved over $16k doing the labor myself.