Essentially water follows the dotted line and drips down below onto the driveway. Previous driveway was eroding at that point. I just got it repaved. Want to prevent this from happening to the new driveway.

There is a little piece of shingle missing at the end of the dotted line. Even if I put a piece of shingle there I believe the slope of the roof will likely still cause water to end up dripping off. Is there a way to improve this? Some way to direct the water down along the shingles at the bottom of the picture?

https://preview.redd.it/9sah8x8wemr91.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4db962d543bc66ea432d236c8c96ef75d77d2f6c

217

38 comments

Posted by5 hours ago

other

Does soil settling affect fence foundation?

Old fence was taken down by previous home owner but posts were cut off at ground level and left in. Because the old fence was put further from the property line than I want, I’m going to dig those out, fill the holes, and tamp it down prior to the new fence going in . My concern is: What happens if the fence installers dig a new post hole too close to an old post hole, where the soil will be considerably softer? Does that pose a risk for the post to settle and lean toward the softer soil? A few inches under the surface of my yard is a 50/50 clay gravel mix nightmare so I’m sure the filled post holes won’t be anywhere near as compressed as the surrounding yard.

Work around is simple enough, by having the new fencing installers just stagger the posts so they don’t line up, but now I’m wondering what the risk really is.

6 comments

112

Posted by12 hours ago

woodworking

Big, Bulky & Sturdy Outdoor Chair DIY - Using Pressure Treated Exterior Wood

imgur.com/a/0Zn8...

112

18 comments

Posted by6 hours ago

electronic

went to hide cables behind mounted tv and discovered a crossbeam, options?

got the urge to do a home improvement project today and since i have done this a few times i went to work on cutting out holes for the faceplates where you simply route the cable behind the wall. to my surprise when going to route the cables i encountered the below beam.

a quick google suggests a flexible drill bit could take care of this for me but i wanted to check in here first to see what others recommend.

https://preview.redd.it/on8g3g4l9mr91.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b92faf28152444f065d695c682d703c2e5e401c4

https://preview.redd.it/v5se3ajw9mr91.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=485529d3b02571d0b43250adf4f8d45911be6b1c

edit: thanks everyone for the tips, after weighing options i decided that attempting the same thing to the left of the TV, free of the stairs, was my best bet, and it worked like a charm.

https://preview.redd.it/70yq6svjknr91.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a85a7dd8559e511da299a8427cf8339fb570e4ae

31 comments

Posted by4 hours ago

other

Concrete surface for pottery studio table

TL;DR: what cement product should I use for a table-top pottery surface?

Edit: no, not plaster. Yes, I'm sure.

I'm trying to replicate a countertop/table surface I saw in a pottery studio when taking a class in Italy (I'm in the US). I have some of the specs on how they formed it, but getting to the details of what exact material they used is tricky since a lot gets lost in translation and materials available there aren't exactly the same as here or might be called something different.

What I'm trying to build is called a wedging table: a very sturdy table on which you slam, fold, and knead clay repeatedly to mix it up evenly and remove air bubbles. There are lots of different surfaces used for this sort of thing, but the concrete they used was the best I've ever seen. It's porous and absorbent, and they'd poured it upside down in a Perspex mold to make it absolutely flat and smooth.

The slab was about 4" thick with some reinforcing material (probably rebar, but again lots gets lost in translation) at a couple of different levels throughout the slab.

When I run down to Lowe's or whatever to find what I'm looking for, is it concrete? Plain old portland cement? Does Quikrete make a packaged product I should look for? Should I be mixing my own blend of portland cement + sand + ...?

Key characteristics of the material I was using: smooth, porous, no obvious large rocks or holes, wouldn't flake/scratch when scraped clean with a steel putty knife/paint scraper.

25 comments

Posted by3 hours ago

other

Framing knee wall on a sloped ceiling - top plate question

Getting ready to frame a knee wall in my attic. I've framed walls before, but they were not on sloped ceilings. Curious if a top plate is actually totally necessary if I can just frame it right into the rafter. This is my question, is this acceptable code wise? If not, how is the appropriate way to frame a sloped ceiling? It seems to me that going right into the rafter (spaced 16" apart) on each stud may actually provide more support, but I'm an amateur at this.

I have tried searching for an answer but have not been able to find it. I could put a top plate on, but it would be angled and then I would have to cut the wood at an angle. More labor intensive, but willing to do it if it's right.

My second question: any drywall considerations for framing to a sloped ceiling, if in fact I should place a top plate?

Where the knee wall is going illustrated below (both sides but for our purposes the photo taken two below is on the right side of this pic)

https://preview.redd.it/9urdkr9p4nr91.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=14393fa9d239a64c59c6a43a50ca99078a95fe62

What I'm considering doing (no bottom plate attached, just illustrative purposes) - nailing it directly to the rafter in the overlapped space shown here:

https://preview.redd.it/dr921l9w4nr91.jpg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=543cbf6f18882285e1ec518159ecaea38bf11f64

Please be kind if this is a terrible question!

12 comments