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Stud Finder is detecting electricity and stud in the same place? by AHungerForKnowledge in DIY

[–]ledow 104 points105 points  (0 children)

I learned after owning several houses never to assume that whoever did work on it at any point was sane, rational, reasonable, forward-thinking, accurate, hard-working, standards-compliant or at all even human.

I tested a wall with a cable finder once... nothing. I checked back and front of the wall visually ... nothing. I aligned all the local sockets and checked where wires would have had to run up or down... nothing anywhere near. I drilled in the middle of a wall 4 feet from the only light switch where nothing was reading. I hit the cable. Yep, rather than go "straight up" into the ceiling to the light fitting, they took a right-angle 4 feet detour through several pieces of wood for no discernible reason.

I once pulled up a floorboard, looked down it, and put my hand inside to pull out a handful of some insulation in order to make a hole to the floor below. My hand came back holding a large core wire, bare ends, no covering, not even tape. Can't be live?! Surely not!? Fucking live. 32A 220V live circuit, just shoved randomly into some insulation without any protection whatsoever. Not associated with anything nearby, not even any nearby electrics!

I needed to move a thermostat. I saw a metal backbox on the wall inside a tiny cupboard under the stairs, with a wire going into it but nothing coming out or on the other side of the wall. The backbox was just balancing there on a tube that contained the cable, so I could get behind it, under it, around it... no outputs on it at all. Obviously some legacy cable to run something at some point.

Unscrewed the metal box... another cable, ends dangling loosely and precariously inside a METAL backbox. Guess what?... live. Rather than terminate it, rather than seal it off, rather than turn off the (redundant) circuit it was connected to... just shove the three live wires into a metal backbox and put the metal plate over the front, it'll be fine in that dark cupboard where you cannot possibly escape.

Toilet cisterns not fastened to the wall at all, just balancing on the back of the toilet.

An entire huge concrete water feature buried, still with intact pond liner, 2 feet deep in the garden (we were wondering why that spot never seemed to drain and was always wet). Rather than remove it, they just knocked it over into its pond liner, then poured more soil on top.

A small porch entrance that was literally balancing on some breeze blocks - hidden behind panelling underneath the now-sinking porch as they sank into the ground themselves. Had to knock the whole thing down and rebuild it, because it had sunk so far it had started to bring the front of the house down with it.

200+ dead rabbit bodies in the garden lawn. Previous owner had been a rabbit breeder, they all died of myxomatosis, so he just buried them and laid a shallow lawn over the top. That grass went absolutely batshit tall with the fertile soil of them all, but you couldn't dig a thing because of all the bodies and bones.

A radiator literally INSIDE a wall. Rather than remove it, they just boxed it off within a new wall. Still connected, with water pipes and heat coming off it.

Power sockets underneath a floor, running extension leads also under the floor that powered things that had been in the place 30+ years. Literally just shoved an extension lead underneath a wooden floor and plugged everything into a hidden socket underneath the floor (no official access, I just pulled a cable and an extension lead came with it... pulled the lead and eventually an open-backed live socket came with it). Worked fine right up until it didn't.

Once laid a laminate floor and the first step is to put the corkboard lining down across the whole floor, then put some small strips of it as cushioned edging (to act as an expansion gap around the walls) and then you put the first plank in place and just tap it snug against the cushioned edge. Done it a dozen times. Watched my dad lay the cushion edge, then lay the first row of planks carefully against it, tap them in place, no problem. Did the whole row. Moved onto the second row and because it was click-together laminate we wanted to make it secure. Dad had made a little "template" to fit snug on a board edge so you can tap it with a hammer snug against the first row without damaging the "keyed" part of the board, and so on.

It wouldn't snap together, so the tapping had to get slightly more insistent. Still wouldn't snap together. Rejigged it all, tried another plank, made sure there were no obstructions, etc. Give it a decent - but not damaging - thump. The entire cushion and the first row of laid flooring punched straight under the wall and slid four feet into the next room. The entire wall was... floating from the ceiling. Not attached to the ground anywhere. First person who fell onto that wall would have brought the whole thing down on their head.

Assume nothing. Buy a snake cam (they are dirt cheap on Amazon and can run off your smartphone). Drill in a "safe spot" (no such thing!), snake it, observe where you want to drill through. Drill slowly, carefully, and make sure your drill is earthed properly. Stop at any obstruction, restriction or resistance.

Turn off the power when you do it (good luck with relying on that AND powering a tool!) and then check the hole carefully for anything you might have cut through (again, snake cam).

Assume nothing.

Question everything.

Try not to die.

How to attach double king studs and jacks correctly to the floor? by Ktrell2 in DIY

[–]whk1992 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Civil engineer here. The rim board or blocking between joists carry most of the downward loads if the wall studs don’t align with the joists. The bottom plate is practically useless in carrying any substantial loads.

But this is Reddit, so whatever gets upvoted the most must be the right solution. /s

General Feedback/Getting Started Questions and Answers [Weekly Thread] by AutoModerator in DIY

[–]Astramancer_pro commenter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

At it's most basic, an infinity mirror a one-way mirror looking at a mirror. As long as it's brighter inside than outside you can see in and get the infinity effect - that's why they always have lights inside. A cube would just have the one-way mirror on all faces and boom, infinity cube.

So what you're looking at is a pretty standard acrylic box build. You can google that pretty easily, basically you use blade to cut a score line on the plastic and snap it along that score mark. Then you can use a bead of superglue to join the edges once you have the box built.

Then you'll want to put a one-way mirror privacy flim on the box. Heck, you might want to put the film on first so you're cutting the film and the faces of the box all in one fell swoop.

You'll have to experiment with light placement inside the box to figure out how to make it look best. I'm guessing that lining in inner edges of inside box would LED tape and possibly painting the edges so you can't directly see the LEDs would look neat.

Then you'd need to drill a teeny tiny hole in the outer box to feed the power through and that's that.

I want to cut a big hole in the side of my house, anything I should know? by 13thmurder in DIY

[–]shramnle 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Okay, there are a lot of details that need to be considered before you begin. Interior horizontal center location of your vent location as well as height location first. Find your center mark. Next you need to remove the drywall or plaster and lath and investigate what is inside that wall. If there is a stud anywhere within your 6” hole from that center mark, you need to plan how you can offset that ductwork in the room, outside the wall to find the new location for your hole. You can not cut out studs. Also, you have vinyl siding but what is the substrate you are drilling through? Plywood? If there are no studs, brick, concrete, wiring, plumbing, existing HVAC etc, (remember check inside and outside) drill a smaller center hole from inside to outside through the plywood and vinyl. Get yourself a 6” holesaw to drill the hole from outside in now. Get the exterior vent flange, install it and yes caulk all the way around it with exterior grade silicone. This is not something to be taken as lightly as alot if these other comments seam to make it out to be. Ask anyone you know with construction experience for advise whenever you are unsure! And good luck!

Upcycling a pickle dildo into an epoxy resin turtle lamp by b771 in DIY

[–]bluecamel17 1983 points1984 points  (0 children)

Y'all, don't miss out on the progress photos and descriptions. This is gold.

Is there any benefit to putting a layer of MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl) between studs and brick wall for workshop sound proofing/reduction? by lovepumppanda in DIY

[–]sw212st 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Sound engineer here with experience building high end studios.

Few things I can recommend.

Mount your shop vac and any extraction units on mason hangers, be that by creating a suspended shelf or otherwise.

https://www.mason-uk.co.uk/hd-acoustic-ceiling-hangers/

These are clever bolt through isolation hangers used in structural room in room environments but they will stop any direct transmission of those particular motors sounds/drones through the walls.

Your main aim is to make the space as air-tight as possible. This is obviously partially impossible but the air gaps are where airborne noise will leak. For physically vibration, mass loaded barrier isn’t a bad idea but not between the studs.

Assuming there are studs against the single leaf brick wall bordering the neighbours? Then I’d be putting mineral wool between these studs then a hard surface (plasterboard) then mlv (stapled but also silicones on each edge and finally green gluing a layer of plasterboard for finish and I’d ensure nothing is hung off or screwed through on that wall.

If you need any form of ventilation in (or out) as a result of sealing up any door gaps then a 4 or six inch inline fan with a labyrinth to reduce sound passage such as:

https://youtu.be/pjzWuJqxjT4 will help.

Finally if you really want to go to town, the install a fake floor using two layers of crossed sheets of ply or chipboard sitting on levelled, glued and spaced mason floating floor feet. This will take almost all coupled sound vibrations (vibrations which travel by being physically connected- say table saw vibrating through legs into floor and across to walls) right down. This is a more committed approach because you need to get the mass of the floor right for it to be stable but also “floating”.

Installing LED strip in pantry with auto on/off switch by pihwlook in DIY

[–]my2k2zx2 41 points42 points  (0 children)

What I ordered is either discontinued or was on my list from Radio Shack's website. The lights I bought did not have a plug, just red & black wires coming off the end. You will also need enough wire to get things put together.

Here is what I think are equivalents to what I bought back then:

battery holder for 8 AA batteries (total of 12v): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WP1CYYW/

magnetic switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009SUF08/

Lights: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075LB9HK2

If you cant solder wires to replace the plug end on the lights, I think you need these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DM7EXX2/

Installing LED strip in pantry with auto on/off switch by pihwlook in DIY

[–]pihwlook[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's really tight clearance in there, but here's a vid I added just for you :)

https://imgur.com/RFF8UNF