There are two huge misconceptions about floral cologne.
The first is that they’re primarily for women. Perhaps it’s true that brands market them that way, but it’s narrow-minded to say that an entire fragrance family has an inherent gender. Nearly every fragrance incorporates floral notes—lavenders, roses, and the like are already in wide use in perfumery, for any and all genders and expressions, even if it doesn’t say it on the box. These days, of course, the idea of gendered grooming products is rapidly feeling obsolete. And not that the ads truly matter, but many brands are neutralizing the commercial positioning of these scents, to instead market them as unisex.
The second misconception is that floral scents are only suited for warmer months. While they certainly evoke bloom and rebirth, the real power of fragrance is in its ability to complement any season and instead send a message to the recipient of the scent: This is what I want to evoke, your fragrance tells the recipient.
And whether it’s the dead of winter or the hottest day of the year, if I’m wearing jasmine or lilac, it’s because I want to provide a spot of optimism to myself or to others. And providing optimism is precisely what floral scents do, no matter the season. Rocking a floral cologne? don’t be surprised to find people, fuller, complete breaths in your presence, as if, you know, stopping to smell the roses.
Dior "Homme"
Dior Homme is flawless, as far as we're concerned. In theory it's an earthy and woody cocktail, but there's no ignoring the prominence that both iris and lavender share in those top and middle notes.
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Roja Parfums "Danger Pour Homme"
This one is foremost spicy and strong, thanks to a cumin-leather-clove combination. But that comes with a refreshing lift of jasmine, violet, and especially lavender, which pulls a lot of the focus.
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Byredo "Rose of No Man's Land"
Rose is extremely common harmonizer at the heart of many scents. It helps bridge the top notes to the base notes, and plays an underappreciated supporting role. But in this Byredo blend, rose gets top billing, with secondary roles falling to raspberry, amber, and pepper.
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Prada "Luna Rossa"
It was challenging to pick anything over Prada's
classic cologne, the iris-leaning L'Homme. But Luna Rossa is that worth calling out, with a delightfully botanical lavender-sage combo that mixes with mint and bitter orange.
Givenchy "Gentleman"
A bit confusingly, this scent is a new-in-2017 iris-lavender twist on a classic patchouli released in 1974. Do you follow? Regardless, the scent behind this is soft and smooth, with undertones of leather, pear, and cardamom.
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Louis Vuitton "Les Sables Roses"
Roses are at the core, but it's not a sickly-sweet Valentine's bouquet. The addition of ambergris—Google that one for a "wow" moment—as well as oud wood give Les Sables Roses a darker feel.
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Arquiste "Boutonnière no. 7"
Arquiste makes the world's best floral fragrance, according to
one of the world's best noses. He calls Boutonnière no. 7 "A crisp green gardenia for your black-tie affair,” which we absolutely agree with, and would add "Or for lazy weekends on the couch."
Atelier Cologne "Silver Iris"
Iris, violet, and mimosa are all blooming in Atelier's Silver Iris scent, along with the sweet but floral-tinged black currant. That quartet plays the yin to a broodier yang, of musk, amber, pepper, and patchouli. Their marriage is floral but woody, and compelling any time of year.
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Fragrance families decoded by the man who defined them.
