World famous in NZ: Queen Charlotte Track, Marlborough Sounds

This is Abel Tasman's quiet sister. Word has spread around the world about the glories of walking in that fabulous little National Park — the bush, the birds, the golden beaches, that turquoise sea — and the Abel Tasman Track is literally loud with German, French, American and Spanish praise.

Over in the Marlborough Sounds, though, you can spend from one day to five following the 71km Queen Charlotte Track where, apart from the occasional inter-island ferry gliding past, you'll have similar scenery much more to yourself.

WHY GO?

It's not only beautiful: it's entirely do-able for anyone reasonably fit. There are hills, but nothing too daunting; and long days, but comforts at night. You can choose to do as much, or as little,of the track as you like, with water taxis just a phone call away. And all along the route are gorgeous views over the Sound, into secluded little bays, and on a clear day all the way from the Kaikouras to Kapiti Island. The birds are melodious, the bush is lush with ferns, beech and tawa, and there's even history here.

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A popular one-day walk starts at Meretoto/Ship Cove, where a monument marks Captain Cook's favourite place to anchor, and features a cannon from the Endeavour. This first 15km section of the track begins with a steepish climb to a lookout and then winds down to Resolution Bay, gently undulating onwards to Endeavour Inlet, where there are several accommodation options set in idyllic locations. How about rewarding yourself with a mulled wine at cosy Furneaux Lodge, and recalling some more recent — and notorious — history there, with a cheeky game of Cluedo in the bar?

INSIDER TIP

Keep your wits about you: it's entirely possible to round a bend and find yourself eye to startled eye with a couple of deer. If you don't want to carry your big pack, water taxis will deliver it for you to your next stop. There will be sandflies.

ON THE WAY/NEARBY

An optional extra en route to Ship Cove is a stop-off at Motuara Bird Sanctuary. You'll spend an hour on the island, walking up to the lookout, past a memorial marking Cook's claiming British sovereignty here over the South Island. No-one has told the birds, who think it's all theirs, especially the little blue penguins glaring out of their nest boxes along the track. Weka, bellbirds, tui, tieke and robins are just some of the other species enjoying this pest-free environment and not being shy about it.

HOW MUCH?

Two ferry companies offer a variety of transport options to and from the track, beginning at $71 for a one-way trip with Beachcomber Cruises to Ship Cove. If you walk the whole track you'll need to buy the $18 QCTLT pass to cross the private land.

BEST TIME TO GO

The track is open year-round. Autumn is lovely but you will meet cyclists then — if you want to avoid the bikes, you'll have to walk in summer. See qctrack.co.nz