Money talks at Abbotsford's new power cafe

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This was published 7 years ago

Money talks at Abbotsford's new power cafe

By Nola James

I'll be the first to admit that food writers use the term "shiny" too frequently but this time I actually mean it. AU79, the Abbotsford power-cafe/bakery/coffee roaster that's named for the symbol and atomic number of gold, is a prime example of what you can accomplish by throwing money around.

General manager Robin Shepherd won't say how much the hospitality-focused CCC Group spent on hand-crafted Italian furniture, brass floor trim and a couple hundred indoor plants, which give the former garage a zen-vibe, despite its size. But he hints that it's a substantial amount that runs into millions.

Ambitious: inside Abbotsford's 200-seat cafe AU79.

Ambitious: inside Abbotsford's 200-seat cafe AU79.Credit: Simon Schluter

There are 200 seats across three dining rooms (we've a soft spot for the pastel-green New York bistro-style booths) and at weekends roughly 800 people wait up to an hour for a table. With this many bodies in the house it makes sense to have coffee stations at either end, both equipped with custom-built Black Eagle espresso machines, batch brew made hourly, V60 and cold brew.

They roast about 400 kilograms of beans a week on site (currently from Rwanda and Colombia) for AU79 and sister venues that include Addict, Liar Liar, St Edmonds and Sir Charles.

The Age, Good Food, AU79 cafe in Richmond. Smoked bonito croquette .Pic Simon Schluter 26 May 2017.

The Age, Good Food, AU79 cafe in Richmond. Smoked bonito croquette .Pic Simon Schluter 26 May 2017.Credit: Simon Schluter

Keeping with the bigger-is-better theme, there are two head chefs. Eddie Noble and Ryan Lynch share that distinction, both brought over from other CCC Group venues to knock up a modern Melbourne brunch menu.

Never say no to breakfast croquettes is my motto. I was hoping their smoked bonito version would be of the bechamel variety. Instead, these have a potato base with a jet-black panko and activated charcoal crumb, more for visual impact than a health effect.

They were on the dry side, more like a fish cake, but it's not too serious if you mix it all together with the accompanying poached egg, pickled red cabbage, char-grilled corn and avocado.

The Korean vegie benedict proves two points. One: breakfast can be a complete meal without bacon; two: gochujang (Korean chilli paste) makes everything taste better – especially hollandaise. Add to the equation meaty whole portobello mushrooms and fermented wombok and you have a winner.

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The Age, Good Food, AU79 cafe in Richmond. Korean vegie benedict; .Pic Simon Schluter 26 May 2017.

The Age, Good Food, AU79 cafe in Richmond. Korean vegie benedict; .Pic Simon Schluter 26 May 2017.Credit: Simon Schluter

For the fearless there's a plate of spherical waffled balls doused in passionfruit creme patissier, sugar-steeped pineapple, banana praline and with "coconut snow."

Teething problems? Of course – our table wobbles and can't be fixed and at 11am the toilets could use a restock – but these are easily overlooked.

Belgian waffle balls with passionfruit creme patissiere.

Belgian waffle balls with passionfruit creme patissiere.Credit: Simon Schluter

As the adage goes: money can't buy you happiness. But it will buy you an innovative breakfast in brass-trimmed surrounds.

Pro-tip: Don't queue. AU79 takes bookings.

Go-to dish: Vegan vegie benedict: house-made kimchi, roast field mushrooms, gochujang hollandaise.

Open Mon-Fri 7am-4pm; Sat-Sun 8am-4pm

27-29 Nicholson Street, Abbotsford, AU79coffee.co

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