A stint working at cult Japanese fashion label Comme des Garçons two years ago was the inspiration for husband-and-wife team Larz Harry and Aida Kim to create their own Australian brand with a Japanese twist. Perth-based Man-tle specialises in masculine workwear that's stylish, durable and made from custom fabrics – vital for attracting a cashed up, fashion-conscious customer.
"We wanted to make something of significant quality, but not at the same prices as the luxury brands," says Harry, whose background is in marketing.
Now working on their fifth collection, out on August 18, the couple spend four months each year in Japan, where their retail network generates 60 per cent of Man-tle sales. A crucial focus is visiting specialist fabric mills in remote areas to collaborate on developing new fabrics, often using very old machinery and traditional skills.
The hero product range is shirting, made from high-density cotton chambray, woven at a 120-year-old, family-run cotton mill in Shizuoka, around two hours from Tokyo, using equipment from the 1960s. The fabric is then sent to Japan's north coast, where another specialist coats it in paraffin wax, a technique originally used to wind-proof garments.
"The finish gives the fabric a certain memory; we like the way it forms shapes," Harry explains. "We got so excited by the texture; it was something that could set us apart."
He says they searched all over Japan to source separate specialist mills to create each new fabric. The jersey for T-shirts, for example, comes from a fourth-generation fabric expert in Nagoya.
"These mills are so accommodating," Harry says. "They have low minimums, so you can really experiment." Each shirt style is capped at between 100 to 150 pieces, retailing at $515-$560.
Australian customers are now served through online and pop-ups, but Man-tle eventually wants a permanent store. And we can't wait.
