How To Install Brake Pads & Rotors On A Honda S2000 QuickJack - http://amzn.to/2sfGmXV (5,000 lb in video) Subscribe for new videos every Wednesday! - https://goo.gl/VZstk7 Products Used: QuickJack - http://amzn.to/2sfGmXV (5,000 lb in video) Brake Piston Tool - http://amzn.to/2tWIFMv Silicon Paste For Brake Pins - http://amzn.to/2tWbHvG Molykote M77 - http://amzn.to/2sZgNri Aluminum Anti-Sieze - http://amzn.to/2sg4Ccj Copper Anti-Sieze - http://amzn.to/2sfTxI8 Brake Pads - http://bit.ly/2tn0WFO Front Brake Rotors - http://bit.ly/2sfprEZ Rear Brake Rotors - http://amzn.to/2sZS9Xu I’ve picked out some rotors with directional vanes, rather than straight vanes, which supposedly offer better cooling as they help pump air through the brakes, which leads to less brake fade. I’ll be doing some testing to see if this is actually true in a later video. Our first step in changing out the brakes is to loosen the wheel lug nuts. Next, we need to lift the wheels off the ground. Be sure to locate the proper jacking points in your owners manual before lifting the car. With the car raised, we can remove the wheels and access the brakes.Starting at the front, first we need to remove the brake caliper to get access to the rotor. To remove the caliper piston & brake pads, there are two bolts on the backside of the caliper. Use a wrench to hold the caliper pin in place, while using a socket wrench to remove the bolts. After removing these two bolts, you can pull the caliper free - set it aside and be sure not to let it hang from the brake line. You can now also remove the two brake pads. Next, we’ll remove the caliper bracket. There are two screws to remove, and then it can be pulled free. With complete access, now we can start removing the brake rotor. Usually there are two screws which hold it in, which if they’re old will likely be rusted at this point. Using a screwdriver and a mallet or hammer, give the rusted screws several hammer taps to help disturb the rust. Then, using a screwdriver, or perhaps an impact wrench if needed, remove the two screws. If nothing seems to get them to budge, you can simply drill out the screws so they’re no longer fastening the rotor. At this point, the rotor is free to remove, but it’s likely that rust will hold it in place. There are two bolt holes to break it from the rust. Using the bolts from the caliper, screw them into the rotor, and slowly tighten each bolt, alternating back and forth, until the rotor finally breaks away. Before installing the new rotor, spray both sides with brake cleaner to remove any protective oil or residue that may be left on the surface. On the hub where the brake rotor rests, rust can build up, so I’m using a wire brush on a drill bit to remove some of the rust and clean up the hub a bit. Slide the new rotor in place, aligning the orientation with the screw holes. You can use a single lug nut to hold the rotor in place while you assemble the brake caliper. Next we’ll put the brake caliper bracket back in place using the two bolts. Honda’s torque spec for these bolts is 79.6 lb-ft. (108 N-m). With the new brake pads, Honda recommends applying Molykote M77 or Daikalub 528D to the back and sides of the backing plate, as well as on the back of the shims. If your pads came with new hardware, replace the clips in caliper bracket, and then slide the brake pads in place. Make sure not to get any grease on the rotors or pad face. Now we need to push the piston back into the caliper. Before doing so, it’s a good idea to wipe down the surface & exposed sides of the piston. Then place the old brake pad against the piston, and using a brake pad piston compressor, press the piston back into place. It shouldn’t require much effort, and once the effort gets high, the piston is likely flush with the caliper and you can stop. I bought this tool for $8 from Harbor Freight, and it works just fine. Next, be sure the brake caliper pins are lubricated and can rotate freely. It’s a good idea to inspect these and apply grease as necessary. Slide the caliper over the brake pads, and torque down the two bolts to 24 lb-ft (32 N-m). Now we can put the wheel back on, and tighten down the lug nuts. Because the car is lifted, we’ll need to wait until it’s lowered again to apply the correct torque. Engineering Explained is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. Don't forget to check out my other pages below! Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/engineeringexplained Official Website: http://www.howdoesacarwork.com Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/jasonfenske13 Instagram: http://www.instagram.com/engineeringexplained Car Throttle: https://www.carthrottle.com/user/engineeringexplained EE Extra: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsrY4q8xGPJQbQ8HPQZn6iA NEW VIDEO EVERY WEDNESDAY!

• published: 02 Jul 2017
• views: 4808