![Mikey Nolan and Toby Jones showcase their Double Rainbouu label at Pitti Immagine Uomo.](http://web.archive.org./web/20170621131657/http://www.afr.com/content/dam/images/g/w/s/q/n/w/image.related.afrArticleLead.620x350.gwqvgt.png/1497856999332.jpg)
A Renaissance-era military fort in Florence is the last place you'd expect to find two Aussie blokes spruiking brightly coloured Hawaiian shirts and boardshorts, but Toby Jones and Mikey Nolan were doing just that last week as part of an Australian delegation to the world's largest menswear trade show.
"Italy is known for traditional tailoring, but we think we can stand out with our relaxed and colourful vibe," says Nolan.
"We're a beachwear brand with an Australian attitude that brings some fun to men's fashion in Italy."
The duo's Double Rainbouu label is one of eight Australian brands shown at Pitti Immagine Uomo in Florence for three days this month, as part of the Pitti Guest Nation Australia celebration aimed at promoting our country's most exciting menswear designers to the world.
![Co-designer Mario-Luca Carlucci of Melbourne label Strateas.Carlucci.](http://web.archive.org./web/20170621131657/http://www.afr.com/content/dam/images/g/w/s/q/n/i/image.imgtype.afrArticleInline.620x0.png/1497593470952.jpg)
Commas, Strateas.Carlucci, Ten Pieces and Ex Infinitas are among the other Australian brands that presented their new collections at the historic Fortezza da Basso military complex, after an invitation from the fair's international organising body, which partnered with The Woolmark Company for the inaugural showcase.
Seeking Antipodean soul
"Australia is one of the most interesting places for creativity in fashion right now and we want to offer that to the global marketplace," says Pitti Immagine chief executive Raffaello Napoleone.
"When I look at Australian designers, there is always a twist of the soul of Australia – the nature, the sun, the healthy and relaxed lifestyle – in the same way Italian designers have a twist of the soul of Italy."
While the soul of Italy is synonymous with elegant suiting and refined tailoring, the soul of Australia is a decidedly more-casual affair. Take Ten Pieces, the unisex label of wardrobe essentials presented in groups of 10 pieces and co-designed by Lucy Hinckfuss and Maurice Terzini.
![Ten Pieces co-designers Maurice Terzini and Lucy Hinckfuss.](http://web.archive.org./web/20170621131657/http://www.afr.com/content/dam/images/g/w/s/q/p/f/image.imgtype.afrArticleInline.620x0.png/1497836978805.jpg)
Terzini grew up in Italy before moving to Australia and opening the Bondi Beach Italian restaurant, Icebergs Dining Room and Bar.
"We sell a lifestyle in our restaurants and I've applied that to Ten Pieces to reinforce who we are as Australians," says Terzini, who also runs The Dolphin Hotel in Sydney and Da Maria in Bali.
"We want to offer an alternative to traditional menswear dressing that is a little bit more free spirited and punky so being based in Bondi is important to us."
Strateas.Carlucci also shares an Italian connection thanks to Mario-Luca Carlucci, who was born to Italian parents and is co-designer of the Melbourne-based brand with Peter Strateas. As the first Australian menswear brand to be invited to show on the official schedule at Milan men's fashion week, Strateas.Carlucci is no stranger to Europe and shows its collections regularly in Paris, but Carlucci says Pitti Uomo offered a new opportunity "to introduce our brand to a broader and dedicated menswear audience".
![Australian delegates at Pitti Uomo, from left, back row: Peter Strateas, Maurizio Terzini and Lucy Hinkfuss, Lukas ...](http://web.archive.org./web/20170621131657/http://www.afr.com/content/dam/images/g/w/s/q/p/6/image.imgtype.afrArticleInline.620x0.png/1497836753856.jpg)
That audience is big: more than 25,000 buyers from around the world attend the event, along with 9000 journalists, photographers and bloggers.
In the Guest Nation Australia pavilion, former Italian prime minister Matteo Renzi and Florence mayor Dario Nardella were welcomed by the Australian ambassador to Italy, Dr Greg French, and wooed with Italian wine and canapés. A digital and photographic installation by Sydney photographer Bartolomeo Celestino showcased the beauty of the Australian ocean and landscape.
The hospitality was squarely aimed at securing sales and press coverage from fashion's most influential buyers and media.
"We attract the major buyers from around the world, and they buy deep," says Napoleone. "In Australia it's impossible to meet these buyers in person, so this is a unique opportunity for Australian brands to generate sales and awareness."
![An exhibition by Sydney photographer Bartolomeo Celestino at the Guest Nation Australia pavilion shows off the beauty of ...](http://web.archive.org./web/20170621131657/http://www.afr.com/content/dam/images/g/w/s/s/j/o/image.imgtype.afrArticleInline.620x0.png/1497836970934.jpg)
A chance to show off
Pip Edwards used the Pitti Uomo opportunity to launch a menswear collection for her P.E Nation brand, which was previously dedicated to womenswear. Blurring the lines between street and sportswear, P.E Nation's womenswear has garnered a strong following in Australia for its ability to go from the gym to weekend brunch and working weekdays.
It was logical, says Edwards, for the label to expand its reach.
"Our womenswear aesthetic is rooted in classic men's sportswear, so menswear was a natural progression for the brand," she says. "The challenge is how to appeal to men when you are known for being a womenswear brand, so we're using the Pitti menswear forum to do a stand-alone men's showcase that has nothing to do with womenswear."
The Australian contingent brought a welcome breath of fresh air to the fair. So renowned is it for being the natural habitat of Italy's sartorial connoisseurs, the term "Pitti peacocks" has been coined to describe the preening men – with exotic exteriors and a biological drive to show it off – who strut about for the benefit of photographers.
"A true menswear peacock might be a rare find in the wild but during Pitti Uomo the flashily dressed gents are everywhere," reported British GQ magazine during the 2016 event. "Like hippos to a watering hole, they flock to a single paved square outside of the show to have their photo taken. And preen. And eat gelato. And have their photo taken while eating gelato."
Double Rainbouu's Nolan says the continuing athleisure trend and the global shift to a more-casual style of menswear meant he and Jones could strut their stuff with the most extravagant sartorial species at the fair.
"In the past five years there's been much more of a street and casual element in men's fashion, so we can peacock in our shirts as well as they can peacock with their dapper vibe."
AFR Contributor