Cabbages may be the original peasant food. Plentiful and sweet in winter when other crops might have been more scarce, they are also cheap, delicious and nutritious. They form the basis of so many simple, rustic dishes from German sauerkraut to hearty European stews: those who look down on cabbage do so at their peril. Here are a couple of cabbage recipes that are fit for a king.
Roast cabbage with porcini and caramelised onion butter
20g dried porcini mushrooms
1 small brown onion, peeled and sliced
100g unsalted butter, softened
¼ tsp salt
½ a large head cabbage, cut into two quarters but connected at the core
2-3 sprigs of thyme, to serve
1. For the porcini butter, soak the mushrooms in just enough hot water to cover them for 10-15 minutes until softened. Drain, reserving the water and finely chop the mushrooms.
2. In a small saucepan over low heat fry the onion in one tablespoon of the butter, stirring frequently for about 15 minutes until the onions are caramelised. Add the reserved porcini liquid, increase the heat and boil until the liquid has evaporated. Allow to cool, then finely chop the onion, mix through the chopped porcini, and stir the mixture through the butter. Season with the salt or to taste.
3. Bring a large pot of water, big enough to hold the cabbage without overflowing, to the boil. Salt the water as you would for cooking pasta. Boil the cabbage for eight minutes then remove and drain well.
4. Heat your oven to 200C fan-forced. Place the cabbage quarters one of the cut sides down into a large oven-proof frying pan.
5. Spread the butter generously over the cabbage and between some of the leaves. Roast the cabbage for 45 minutes until well browned on all sides. Scatter with the thyme just for the last five minutes of roasting, and serve.
Serves 4 as a side dish
Potted cabbage with pork, mustard and lemon
750g pork belly, skin and bones removed, cut into 1-centimetre strips
1 tbsp dijon mustard
1 tsp brown sugar
1 tsp salt, plus extra to season
¼ tsp ground black pepper
50g butter, cubed
1 small to medium cabbage, cut into 4-6 wedges
2 carrots, peeled and cut into large chunks
4 spring onions, finely sliced
1 lemon, half thinly sliced, and half juiced
1 cup dry white wine
1 cup chicken stock or water
1 tbsp finely shredded parsley, to serve
1. Heat the oven to 180C.
2. Combine the pork, mustard, sugar, salt and pepper in a bowl and mix to combine.
3. Heat a little of the butter in a large, heavy, lidded dutch oven over high heat and arrange the cabbage wedges, cut sides down, in the base of a large, heavy lidded saucepan. When the side of the cabbage that is in contact with the pan is well browned, add the carrots, the pork belly on top, and scatter with the spring onion, remaining cubes of butter and lemon slices. Pour over the lemon juice, white wine and chicken stock or water, and cover with the lid.
4. Transfer to the oven and bake for 1½ hours until the cabbage is tender and the pork is cooked through. Adjust for seasoning and serve scattered with parsley.
Serves 6