It's unclear whether the inspiration for Windsor's latest two-storey wine bar, bottle shop and eatery is the god of the sea or the distant blue planet. What is clear, however, is that Nic Coulter and Simon Blacher (Hanoi Hannah, Tokyo Tina et al) with brothers David and Michael Parker (San Telmo, Pastuso) have drawn influence from far and wide, so perhaps that is apt.

Just opposite High Street's Bikram studio in Windsor, Neptune is aiming big. It's a gigantic, gently lit warren of spaces with deep banquettes, steel and glass doors, an atrium, upstairs cocktail bar and back nook with a fireplace.

The menu, while definitely throwing fishy options around (mussel escabeche, fritti misti, premium tinned fish a la Sydney's Continental Deli, beet-cured salmon), is broad and familiar to anyone who has dined at a youthful wine-focussed entity this year.

There's chicken liver parfait and cannellini hummus; sweet roasted carrots, hanger steaks and a couple of pastas (word to the wise though, that bone marrow tortellini needs some work).

As per the Alps and City Wine Shop, big wine fridges holding interesting local, French and Italian wines (some with skin contact, obviously), and allow you to pick your bottle and drink in or head home. Upstairs, in the cocktail saloon, there are whisky lockers if you want to show off to your Tinder date.

Open Tuesday-Sunday noon-midnight.

Neptune, 212 High Street, Windsor, 03 9533 2827, neptune.melbourne