Edition: U.S. / Global

Thursday, May 11, 2017

Food

Stephen Speranza for The New York Times

Sri Lankan restaurants are rare in New York. This one serves pizza, but the real draws are traditional specialties like the pancakes known as hoppers.

The Challenge of Perfect Phyllo

When it comes to rolling out thin pastry dough, we’re all on training wheels, compared with those who have plenty of practice.

Restaurant Review

The Extras Are the Stars on the Korean Menu at Atoboy

At his restaurant in NoMad, the chef builds excitement out of banchan, the little plates that usually come free.

Eat

The Case for Hard-Shell Tacos

Gringo tacos, some people call them. But they remain well loved, in surprising quarters.

Mario Maglieri, Who Coddled Rockers at His Clubs, Dies at 93

At Whisky a Go Go and the Rainbow Bar & Grill, Mr. Maglieri fed, encouraged and, when necessary, punched his famous patrons.

Los Angeles Restaurant Scene Is on the Move and Mixing It Up

Few cities are showing as much change as this one, with chefs seeking out cheaper neighborhoods and forging new blends of immigrant cuisines.

A Powerful, and Provocative, Voice for Southern Food

John T. Edge has made a huge mark as director of the Southern Foodways Alliance, and also spurred criticism for his take on culinary history.

Recipes From the Jet Set

Crisp chicken schnitzel, Yotam Ottolenghi’s latest, no-recipe scallops: Sam has returned from Australia with loads of ideas.

Tech We're Using

The Joys of Cooking With Gadgetry

A deputy food editor at The New York Times discusses the technology she uses.

Cooking Guide

How to Make Salad

With a little planning, the salad bowl can be the brightest spot of your meal.

Restaurants Fall Into Place at Hudson Yards

A look at some of the chefs taking part in this development on the Far West Side of Manhattan.

Obama Sees New Front in Climate Change Battle: Agriculture

In his first foreign speech since leaving office, the former president takes up a cause better associated with his wife.

Hungry City

A Shrimp Cocktail With a Jumbo Jolt, at La Esquina in Queens

Potent tonics are the draw at a tiny in-store restaurant with a big name (La Esquina del Camarón Mexicano) in Jackson Heights.

A Good Appetite

A Bold Take on Asparagus, Deep in Its Season

Adding freekeh, soy sauce and sheep’s milk cheese to an asparagus salad may not be intuitive, but it is delicious.

Off the Menu

Miss Ada, Drawing on Middle Eastern Flavors, to Open in Brooklyn

A new bar in the Lowell Hotel, chefs on the move, and other restaurant news.

Surprise! Southern Comfort Has No Whiskey. But Soon It Will.

Trying to improve the image of a much-derided drink, its makers are planning a reboot, with the spirit many people think it already contains.

City Kitchen

Classic Mediterranean Flavors, Enlivened by Ramps

Swap out the garlic and try something new with lamb chops, served with a sauce of anchovies, capers and olives.

A Rose Is a Rose Is a Doughnut

Just in time for Mother’s Day, Doughnut Plant introduces a flower-shaped yeast doughnut.

Same Speedy Omakase Chef, Now on the West Side

The sushi chef David Bouhadana has taken his 12-pieces-for-$50 model from the Bowery to the Gansevoort Market.

Baking Conversions at Your Fingertips

“The Baker’s Appendix” compiles common conversions — temperatures, metric and pan sizes — for the home cook.

Tart Flavors From a New Soup Company

The signature soup from Something Good to Eat is a blend of beets and pomegranate juice.

An Alfredo Sauce Straight From the Source

A new pasta sauce for fettuccine Alfredo is based on the original recipe from Rome.

A Mozart Melody for the Master Chef

A new kitchen timer bursts into the composer’s Piano Sonata No. 11 when it’s time to check on the food.

Restaurants and News
Thomas Keller at the site of his 200-seat restaurant that will go up in the Hudson Yards development in Manhattan. Mr. Keller is wondering whether some change in his life may be in order.
Ben Sklar for The New York Times

Thomas Keller at the site of his 200-seat restaurant that will go up in the Hudson Yards development in Manhattan. Mr. Keller is wondering whether some change in his life may be in order.

At 61, with big projects nearing completion on both coasts, the influential founder of the French Laundry contemplates his next chapter.

Maple, the New York Start-Up, Has Delivered Its Last Meal

The service, in which the chef David Chang was an investor, has been sold to Deliveroo, a larger company, in London.

‘Vegetable Forward’ Chef Gets His Own Patch at Loring Place

Dan Kluger’s new restaurant in Greenwich Village leans heavily on grains and seasonal produce, evoking his work at ABC Kitchen.

Why Everything We Know About Salt May Be Wrong

Research on Russian cosmonauts suggests that salt makes you hungry but not thirsty, and may help burn calories.

What Hospitality Means to Times Restaurant Critic Pete Wells

“If I had a bad day, I don’t take it out on the salmon,” he said. But if a restaurant provides a mood-altering service, it’s relevant to his review.

A Chicken That Grows Slower and Tastes Better

Prodded by other companies, Perdue, one of America’s biggest poultry producers, is testing a new breed with a healthier life — and a higher cost.

The Rise of the $38 Pizza, Exclusive and Elusive

You’ve heard of the $1 slice? This is another kind of New York pizza, from a Sutton Place shop that has started selling tickets for the experience.

Coffee Shops Skip Wi-Fi to Encourage Customers to Actually Talk

A small number of cafes are promoting sociability over technology and productivity by denying customers access to Wi-Fi.

The Money Issue

The Superfood Gold Rush

Like quinoa before it, açaí has become a craze among health-conscious Americans — creating a bonanza in the regions where it’s grown.

Le Coucou Named Best New Restaurant at James Beard Awards

Michael Solomonov of Zahav won Outstanding Chef, and from New York, Ghaya Oliveira of Daniel, Blue Hill at Stone Barns and Marco Canora of Hearth took home honors.

Hungry City

Bracing Burmese Food, Full of Contradictions, at Together

The city’s lone Burmese restaurant brings the rings and chain links of the Burmese alphabet to a Brooklyn street otherwise inscribed in English, Russian and Mandarin.

A Day in the Life of a Food Vendor

The vendors are a fixture of New York streets and appetites, yet they struggle daily with weather, logistics and rules. Here’s the story of one.

Me Time

A Takeout Addict Tries Clean Eating

Who says healthy, and Instagram-worthy, food can’t come in a package? Our columnist orders in.

Cooking

You don’t have to wait in line in the rain. A rich, fluffy version with a lacy, crisp crust is right at hand.

City Kitchen

Light Noodles, Deep Flavor

Vietnamese rice noodle bowls are festooned with lemongrass-scented shrimp, a sweet-and-spicy sauce and piles of fresh herbs.

How to Cut an Avocado Without Cutting Yourself

The popular fruit has earned a dangerous reputation in emergency rooms and doctor’s offices.

A Good Appetite

This Herb Deserves Your Attention

Before roasting, marinate chicken thighs with tarragon to perfume the meat.

The Single Most Important Ingredient

Salt has a greater impact on flavor than anything else. Learn to use it well, and your food will be good.

City Kitchen

Three Ways to Let Fresh Asparagus Shine

An ode to the springtime spear.

Eat

Provence in a Bowl

Jessica B. Harris’s soupe au pistou will take you from spring through summer, with your pot reflecting the bounty of the seasons.

A Good Appetite

Fish That’s Fast, Easy and Sometimes Even Fancy

Broiled butterflied trout works just as well for a weeknight meal as it does for company.

On Desserts

Baking Is All in the Hands

So much of the pleasure is tied to touch.

Drinks
Serge Bloch

Conventional wisdom about this sparkling red may pose an obstacle, but drinking the wine will revise many opinions.

Toast Ale, From Recycled Bread, Is Now Brewed in New York

Fighting food waste, a British team enlists a Bronx brewery, and plans to sell the beer in stores, restaurants and bars.

Canadian Drinkers, Listen: Too-Potent Batch of Gin Is Recalled

Officials urged consumers to return affected Bombay Sapphire bottles or discard them, even though the 154-proof contents aren’t “unsafe to drink.’’

Wines of The Times

From the Sonoma Coast, Chardonnays of Energy and Memories

The wine panel finds great potential and at the same time ponders why some bottles seem so vibrant while others do not.

American Brandy Is Surging, Even in Whiskey Country

Copper & Kings, in Kentucky, is just one of many distillers, large and small, betting that brandy will be the next big brown liquor.

Wine School
Your Next Lesson: Spätlese Riesling

The sweetness and the German on the label may present obstacles, but these wines are too thrilling and versatile to ignore.

Featured Recipes
Baked Brie
Caesar Salad
Coq au Vin
Bucatini all’Amatriciana
Fines Herbes Omelet
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How-To Videos
Cooking Techniques

A library of more than 50 videos demonstrating simple skills that home cooks should master.

Find your favorite recipes on our Pinterest boards.

Best of 2016
Restaurant Review
Top New York Restaurants of 2016

Our critic counts down his favorites among the new places he reviewed this year.

The Most-Read Food Stories of 2016

These are the articles and columns that Food section readers found most compelling in 2016.

Culinary Travel
Choice Tables
From Collegiate to Culinary: Ann Arbor’s Food Scene Grows Up

An international palate can be satisfied in this Midwestern town.

Boîte
A Makeshift Bar on a Dusty Brooklyn Patch

The Lot Radio in the Williamsburg section began as an internet radio station and coffee shop.

Bites
In Panama, a Restaurant as Remote as It Is Satisfying

Panga, on the Azuero Peninsula, is over 60 miles from the nearest supermarket. That means the food is, by necessity, fresh and inventive.

Heads Up
In Granada, Spain, the Tapas Bar Scene Gets Fresh Life

Few travelers are privy to a tradition of savoring free tapas, but stylish newer tapas bars are drawing attention to the custom.

Bites
In New Orleans, Marrying Asian Influences and Gulf Ingredients

At Marjie’s Grill, the balance of sweet, salty, spicy and acidic flavors typical of Southeast Asian cuisine pairs fabulously with local seafood and “off cuts.”

Heads Up
Millennials Answer the Call of Mexican Wine Country

Raw and quirky, Valle de Guadalupe is drawing 20- and 30-somethings with modern, design-y wineries and a grit that can’t be found in Napa or Sonoma.

Bites
A Nairobi Restaurant With Local Ingredients and a Dreamy Vibe

45 Degrees Kitchen, which opened in late 2015, prides itself on sourcing locally. Very locally.

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