1 COMPTON
While the recent film Straight Outta Compton reignited enthusiasm for the proponents of west coast hip-hop, the area in South Central has long been a breeding ground for the finest in the genre. The centre of the westside scene was a roller rink called Skateland USA at 1950 South Central Avenue. It's here that hip-hop was fostered with shows and DJs. N.W.A featuring Dr Dre, Ice Cube and Eazy-E played their first show here. If you drive by, you'll see the building is still there but it's now a hair accessories warehouse.
To get a good feel of Compton you can take a three-hour LA Hood Life Tour with Rapper, The Game's step-dad, Hodari Sababu who takes you to Dre's childhood home, to Tupac's mural, and to Tam's Burgers, a favourite of recent Grammy winner, Kendrick Lamar. The highlight is a visit to a drive-through funeral home, built so mourners can view an open casket without running the risk of being shot by rival gang members. www.lahoodlifetours.com
2 AMOEBA MUSIC
No music lover's trip to LA would be complete without a rummage through the racks at the world's largest independent record store. It's here you'll find rare vinyl, books and ephemera and also catch an in-store show by some of the world's biggest bands. Another vinyl store worth visiting is Rockaway Records in Silver Lake for rare vinyl. Also here are rare collectibles including the surfboard the Beach Boys held on the cover of Surfin' Safari and the biggest Beatles memorabilia collection available to purchase from plastic wigs to Fab Four record players. http://www.amoeba.com; http://www.rockaway.com
3 CAPITOL RECORDS BUILDING
The Stack 'o' Records building – the cylindrical shape looks like records piled high up with a needle on top – was built in 1956 and designed by Welton Becket. The light flickering atop the antenna spire blinks H-O-L-L-Y-W-O-O-D in Morse code, a beacon representing the new west coast record company era. Capitol Records made their fortune on Nat King Cole and Frank Sinatra, who recorded in the famous Studio A here. The Beastie Boys launched their record Paul's Boutique on the rooftop here in 1989. While it's always worth a photo opportunity, occasionally events are held here including a solo performance of God Only Knows by Brian Wilson, whose quintessentially Californian band, The Beach Boys, was on Capitol.
4 SUNSET STRIP
On this famous stretch, which has long been the centre of Los Angeles nightlife, there are still reminders of the musical past. Still operating is the Whisky-A-Go-Go where all the bands from Buffalo Springfield to Van Helen played in the 60s to 80s, as well as the Rainbow Bar and Grill where Led Zeppelin partied and The Roxy where LA punks the Germs played and latter day metal bands still try their luck to this day. In 1966, a demonstration was staged on Sunset with Sonny and Cher protesting big business high rises elbowing in on the famous boulevard. These days there's construction cranes on every block building condos and a big residential and commercial complex designed by architect Frank Gehry has just been given the go ahead, so the days of bars and bands may be numbered.
5 LAUREL CANYON
It was in the late 60s when, keen for a more laidback vibe, musicians moved beyond the bright lights of Hollywood into the hilly havens of Laurel Canyon and nearby Topanga Canyon. This is where members of The Mamas and the Papas, The Byrds, the Monkees and Linda Ronstadt might have all bumped into each other at the Laurel Canyon Country Store, which is still operating. Graham Nash wrote Our House, about the Laurel Canyon bungalow he shared with Joni Mitchell and Neil Young recorded After the Gold Rush in the basement of his Topanga Canyon home. For a slice of the Laurel Canyon lifestyle on Sunset Boulevard, head to the new Estrella Restaurant which is all done up in wood, macramé wall hangings and indoor plants. It's named after the circus girl from the Mitchell song Ladies of the Canyon. The food is fresh modern American, and delicious. estrellasunset.com
6 HOLLYWOOD FOREVER CEMETERY
Sure, you can visit the graves of Johnny and Dee Dee Ramone at the Hollywood Forever Cemetery but you can now also see shows here. The candlelit Masonic Lodge has become the preferred place to launch an album by artists such as Dawes and St Vincent. The larger outdoor grand lawn is also used as a performance space. Another bonus in this town where wheels are a must, there's free parking. http://www.hollywoodforever.com/culture
7 SUNSET MARQUIS
A quiet oasis just off Sunset, the Marquis has long been a hideaway for musicians. Everyone from The Clash to Gun 'N Roses camped out here, and Bruce Springsteen and Elton John still use it as their LA address. There's a recording studio on site which Billy Bob Thornton seems to have booked out permanently.
"This is as close as it gets to the heyday of rock 'n' roll, where you could have a community of other artists that you hung out with," Thornton has said.
Onsite is also the Morrison Hotel Gallery where you can view (and purchase) fine art photographs of musicians. http://sunsetmarquis.com
8 GRAMMYS MUSEUM
You might not be able to actually attend the Grammys (though you can stand outside to watch the musicians stroll in), which are held annually at the Staples Centre in Downtown Los Angeles, but you can visit The Grammys Museum in the same building. Across four floors you can view actual awards as well as stage outfits and handwritten lyrics of best-selling songs. Right now you can see such diversity as the Legends of Motown exhibition featuring Smokey Robinson and the Miracles, and The Ramones – The Birth of Punk. There's also a moving tribute to Michael Jackson. See grammymuseum.org
9 HOLLYWOOD BOWL
This legendary outdoor venue has hosted Ella Fitzgerald and Frank Sinatra. A 1968 Jimi Hendrix performance was so electrifying that 2500 fans rushed the stage with 100 diving into the adjacent pool in front of the bandshell (it was filled in shortly after). When Alice Cooper played here in 1972, a helicopter missed the park and dropped thousands of paper panty souvenirs into the backyards of neighbours. These days, everyone from Dylan to Gaga play the Hollywood Bowl. Bring a picnic, sit down and enjoy the band as well as the view of the Hollywood sign beyond. http://bowl-ca.com
10 OLD STYLE GUITARS
First-time visitors may tell you to go to Guitar Centre on Sunset, and it's certainly worth visiting alone just to see the Walk of Rock where musicians such as Motley Crue and Van Halen have planted their hands in concrete for us to admire. But be sure to make your way over to Silver Lake to Old Style Guitars for one-off custom guitars. Secret shows are also performed here by The National and Kurt Vile. This is where you're likely to bump into a famous musician picking up a Fender, a Kay or Sears catalogue guitars from the 60s. http://oldstyleguitarshop.com
Andrea Black was a guest of Discover Los Angeles and Delta
TRIP NOTES
MORE
traveller.com.au/los-angeles
discoverlosangeles.com
STAY
Loews Hollywood is right on Hollywood and Highland, see loewshotels.com
FLY
Delta Airlines has regular flights between Australia and Los Angeles. To check specials, see delta.com
The writer was a guest of Discover Los Angeles and Delta
THE PERFECT LA SOUNDTRACK
Load up your iTunes, make a Spotify list or seek out the vinyl for these when on your Californian road trip: The Beach Boys, Surf's Up; N.W.A, Straight Outta Compton; Randy Newman, I Love LA; Joni Mitchell, California; Flying Burrito Bros, Sin City; Love, Maybe the People Would be the Times or Between Clark and Hilldale; Tupac, California Love; Thee Midniters, Whittier Blvd; Buffalo Springfield, For What It's Worth; Bob Seger, Hollywood Nights.
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