If the '60s had miniskirts, the '90s spaghetti straps and grunge, and the early oughts, perilously low-cut jeans (thanks for nothing Britney Spears) then the look that defines how women are dressing right now is this: well, they're dressing exactly as they please.
What this really means, according to Vanessa Friedman at The New York Times earlier this month, is that both covering up and female empowerment (not that these are mutually exclusive concepts, mind) is in. We are, says Friedman, seeing the end of the "naked look". Moreover, we're dressing in a way "that prioritises the individual and her needs over the cliches of female role play".
And if you look around – on the catwalks at fashion month earlier this year, to the street style set and the high street – this way of dressing is everywhere. Oversized shirts and flares reign. There, the swish of a mid-length or ankle-length skirt; on Instagram, high-waisted culottes, buttoned-to-the-top blouses, and structured mannish blazers with power shoulders. The most coveted (and copied) designers are Phoebe Philo at Celine, with her clothes cut to swathe and flatter, and Alessandro Michele at Gucci with his whimsical pussybow blouses, geek chic cardigans and high voltage florals.
For Ryan Lobo, one half of the Australian design duo behind the New York-based label Tome – creators of beautiful clothes for women of all ages and sizes – this is reflective of a thoroughly modern way of dressing.
"The modern woman is interested in dressing for herself and her intellectual attributes," he says.
"Within this comes a refined approach to style that could be described as modest, but we believe you don't have to show off a lot of skin in order to be alluring."
At Kym Ellery's show in Paris this March the Australian fashion designer sent down looks that played with volume and exaggeration – the necklines were high, the sleeves long. The inspiration for the collection, the designer told WWD, was the idea of "this traditional bourgeois woman who goes on this psychedelic trip and has an electric awakening".
"I guess I'm quite a covered-up designer," Ellery told Fairfax Media last November. "I like the idea of the fabric swirling around your body. I find it sensuous; I like the drama of the silhouette."
The idea of an awakening, of women dressing for themselves outside of what is expected of them, is something that motivates Australian fashion designer Anna Quan. Her signature oversized shirts with extra-long sleeves are just the thing women want to wear right now – so much so that back-orders for her shirts can be completely pre-ordered in a season. The shirts are void of feminine trappings, and yet possess a certain powerful, undone elegance to them.
"Female empowerment is very much in the spotlight right now," says Quan.
"I think this has permeated to how women dress. Moreover, women dress for themselves and not for the male gaze. Whether it is covering up (or not), they dress confidently in ways that make them feel comfortable and for themselves."
TK Maxx set to arrive on our shores
In welcome news for seasoned bargain hunters, the latest instalment in the juggernaut that is overseas fashion retailers setting up shop downunder, is the arrival of North American discount retailer TK Maxx. The "off-price" retailer plans to set up 35 stores in the eastern states. The store stocks a range of brands – from high end to emerging – at cut-price.
This is possible because the retailer buys up oversupplied stock from designers and brands, and it operates with no frills.
The stock in the stores is turned over continuously with new deliveries each week.
At a breakfast launch and fashion show to welcome the retailer to Australia at The Calyx in the Botanic Gardens in Sydney this week, TK Maxx spokeswoman Tessa Buenen said there was "appetite" in Australia for global brands.
"Aussie shoppers love value – they are smart and savvy. TK Maxx is a totally different shopping experience."
Russell Zimmermann from the Australian Retailers Association said the arrival of TK Maxx is a further shake-up to the Australian retail sector and noted that while some local retailers may struggle to keep up, the competition is welcome.
"It's great to see them arrive," he says.
TK Maxx operates more than 500 stores across seven countries – including Britain, Germany and the Netherlands.
It expects to open stores in former Trade Secret locations by the end of May, including Melbourne on April 20, Brisbane on April 22 and Sydney on April 27 with a further rollout across regional centres including Toowoomba, Sunshine Coast and Canberra. More stores will be announced later in the year.
The arrival of TK Maxx follows global fast fashion brands including H&M;, Zara and Uniqlo to Australia.