Dries Van Noten

To mark his 100th collection, Van Noten invited models who have walked his shows over the past 24 years, including Alek Wek, Nadja Auermann, Emma Balfour (flown in from Australia) and Amber Valletta, to reunite on the catwalk. Remixed prints from his archive were paired with masculine outerwear and, often, jeans. It was strong, smart and beautiful – just like the women. Trend tip: grown-up jeans

Celine

Phoebe Philo sat her audience on 360° revolving seats, the better to view her boxy jackets and black pant suits, multitude of raincoats and – next season’s wardrobe staple – striped shirts. For Celine enthusiasts, there were mohair blankets. Trend tip: initial pendants – here, they were gold and chunky

Loewe

An all-black venue – carpet, walls and seats – was the backdrop to clothes tapping into the grown-up trend that has swept Paris. The only light came from spotlit orchids on plinths. Even the liberal scattering of polka dots felt serious. The darkness added focus. A Fair Isle jumper and silk skirt look was actually a dress, the knit morphing into the silk. Trend tip: midi skirts

Balenciaga

In another centenary celebration, this time Balenciaga’s 100th anniversary, Demna Gvasalia looked to the archive with gowns and voluminous dresses – often with his signature “laundry” bags in matching fabrics. Daywear appeared as accidental fusions, with skirts within coats and knitted jumpers within blouses. He also referenced cars with car mats wrapped as skirts, nylon spare tyre covers as totes and wing mirrors as evening bags. Trend tip: mis-buttoned coat

Saint Laurent

Anthony Vaccarello showed the men’s and women’s collections in one bumper production with models stomping through the rain around the courtyard at the still-being-built YSL headquarters. Ruffles, mini-dresses and sharp shoulders showcased his womenswear, with diamante boots stealing the show on social media. Menswear highlights included neat bomber jackets. Trend tip: knee-high boots – here, OTKs were ruched down

Stella McCartney

Signature classics and effortless elegance were on display in equestrian-inspired, oversized tailoring with detailed twists, such as a secondary lapel peaking through a tailored dress. Sculpted and elongated sleeves, loose-fitting coats and coat dresses in Prince of Wales checks were uncomplicated. A silk trouser suit referenced the 18th-century painter George Stubbs. Trend tip: tweed

Valentino

Pierpaolo Piccioli’s collection was all about the dress – and judging by the customers in the audience, they won’t have trouble selling a few more. Inspired by Victoriana and the Memphis Group, the show dresses were exquisitely crafted, in Neapolitan colours, printed and plain and with lace detailing. Notable was the final exit, a voluminous knee-length raspberry sequined number. Trend tip: flat worker boots with dresses

Chloé

Clare Waight Keller’s swansong for Chloé saw her play to her strengths with a few new additions: pinafore mini dresses, Mary Jane shoes, the new ‘Pixie’ bag, chiffon blouses and dresses in pretty prints. Kurt Cobain slouchy knits and over-shirts brought a 90s edge to the 60s silhouette. The retro tracksuit – one of her biggest hits at the house – became a suede shell suit. Trend tip: 90s originals

Christian Dior

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s crusade to bring Dior to the millennial customer picked up pace with her blue-themed collection. She sent out an army of girls in denim and workwear jackets mixed with more familiar tulle cocktail dresses. The iconic bar jacket had a hoodie makeover and skirts were re-imagined in taffeta. Trend tip: berets – here in black leather by Stephen Jones

Miu Miu

The show opened to the sound of De la Soul’s The Magic Number and a parade of vivid teddy bear coats, oversized shearling caps and hip-hop artist bucket hats. Sporty sweaters and A-line skirts, fur-collared nylon anoraks and metallic Kicker-style boots gave added street-style edge. Bold psychedelic floral prints were mashed together followed by giant sequin-covered dresses and shifts embellished with feathers clustered like giant flowers. Trend tip: More is more