A lip-smacking bubble of 1950s retro dining appears two nights a week in Sydney's south-west, like a lipsticked mirage of juicy hamburgers and lolly-piled ice-cream sundaes.
Every Friday and Sunday night, Riverwood's Spot Caffe turns into Miss America's pop-up diner in a blur of Blu-Tacked posters, flag bunting and life-size James Dean and Elvis Presley cut-outs.
Run by sisters Constance Chalazia and Alexis Barberakis, it is a thriving burger joint crossed with a Star-Spangled Banner-themed mini-museum devoted to the 1940s and '50s. Entering the white picket-fenced outdoor seating area, seeing the gingham and chilli-covered tablecloths and a proper lit-up sign suspended from the awning, it's hard to believe it's not permanent.
Inside, to a rockabilly soundtrack, walls are covered in photos, pictures, number plates and neon signs celebrating Marilyn Monroe, Dean, Presley, vintage cars, Bugs Bunny, hotdogs, jukeboxes, and peppy 1950s waitresses bearing groaning trays of cherry-topped chocolate sundaes and ice-cream sodas.
"You should see our Blu-Tack ball," Barberakis says, referring to what keeps everything on the walls for this temporary diner jamboree.
The two-page menu features six burgers ranging from the Sinatra, a single beef patty, to the Marilyn, a towering magnificence of three beef patties. There are also "dawgs", including the Fat Elvis, buffalo wings, or "wangs", and fries topped with melted cheese, beef or bacon.
Burgers are festooned with tiny American flags or mini peacocks. Milkshakes, made with malt, soft-serve ice cream and whipped cream, come with curly straws, paper umbrellas and wafers, covered in a shower of freckles, Gummy bears, rainbow sprinkles, milk bottle and sour lollies.
I am already high on a James Dean – Be A Rebel burger: two beef patties separated by melting cheddar, with good fresh lettuce and tomato slices, bacon, onion, pickles and a sour French pickle skewered on top via a US toothpick flag. It is utterly luscious.
I'm also shovelling in Heart Attack fries, a paper-lined basket of thin chips covered in cheese, bacon and shallots.
It is hard to look lady-like while eating at Miss America's Diner.
I need 10 minutes before my stomach will allow dessert so inspect the glass display case near the till. Decorated with pineapples, flamingos cut-outs and 1950s model cars filled with popcorn, it holds lemon meringue pie, Oreo cheesecake and apple pie with a latticed pastry top. The apple pie's sweet, deeply fruity delights, are spot on.
As the sun sets, the diner fills up quickly, a buzzing mix of couples, families and groups of every nationality. Service is fast with personal care. Barberakis, in 1950s-style gingham shirt, capri pants, high ponytail and cherry-red lipstick, is a shining light of cheer and welcome. Chalazia, working in a tiny back kitchen, has designed a menu with chutzpah. Every dish arrives lickety-split.
They also do takeaway, perfect for scoffing in the car before making out.
Miss America, take a bow.
MISS AMERICA'S
210 Belmore Road, Riverwood
0430 998 548
Friday and Sunday, 6-11pm
THE PICKS
Nevada Get Me Wong burger; Heart Attack fries; apple pie; pink cow milkshake
THE LOOK
Nostalgic 1950s American diner
THE VALUE
Very good. James Dean burger, $13; apple pie, $9
NEARBY
Bankstown Arts Centre, 5 Olympic Parade, Bankstown