Young guns: Meet some of Canberra's up-and-coming chefs

Young chefs (from left) Josh Lundy of EightySix, Annabelle Greig of Pialligo Estate and Marcus Dimabuyo of Aubergine.
Young chefs (from left) Josh Lundy of EightySix, Annabelle Greig of Pialligo Estate and Marcus Dimabuyo of Aubergine. Photo: Karleen Minney

They're the future of Canberra's culinary scene, hand-picked by some of the city's top chefs as generation next in Canberra kitchens.

Josh Lundy, Annabelle Greig, Jasmine Sawa and Marcus Dimabuyo will join forces for a one-off Sunday lunch as part of The Canberra Times Good Food Month in March. Jil Hogan meets the chefs behind the event.

Josh Lundy of Eightysix.

Photo: Karleen Minney

Josh Lundy - 22 - Eightysix

How did you start cooking?

I kind of fell into it. I started working as a kitchenhand when I was 14 years old, just kind of an after school job, and within a couple of months just realised that I loved it. By the time I was 15 I was doing five split [shifts] a week in summer holidays. I also used to cook a lot with my sister, I would go over and make curries with her and I really enjoyed it. But that's just something I did, I never really thought of it as a career.

Where has your career taken you so far?

I was at Ellacure restaurant in Bruce, that's where I started. Then Gus [Armstrong] opened Eightysix and I went across with him. I finished my apprenticeship at Eightysix and I moved up to Sydney for a little bit, and worked at Sepia for about six months. The work was awesome but I hated living in Sydney so I came home and I'm back at Eightysix now.

What's your cooking style?

I kind of like to let the produce speak for itself – that's my food philosophy. A tomato should taste like a tomato, a potato should taste like a potato, I don't like to mess around with things too much. Obviously there's an element of technique that goes into stuff, but that's something working at Eightysix has really taught me with an often-changing menu, you've really gotta just work with what you can.

Who's your foodie inspiration?

At the moment, it's Virgilio Martínez from Central [in Peru], but it changes all the time. It depends on which book I'm reading. Obviously René Redzepi who's like a God. I was lucky enough to dine at Noma a couple of years back and that was a pretty awe-inspiring moment. I got out the back to do a tour of the kitchen and there's René Redzepi hooking in, scrubbing the floor and that's one those moments – you're never too good to do anything.

Young chef Annabelle Greig of Pialligo estate one of four chefs to participate in the Good Food month event where prominent Canberra chefs have each chosen a protege to cook a one off. Photo by Karleen Minney.

Photo: Karleen Minney

Annabelle Greig - 26 - Pialligo Estate

How did you start cooking?

I grew up on a deer farm in Canterbury, just outside Christchurch in New Zealand, and we had a garden and my dad would take me hunting and shooting and we just ate food fresh from the ground. I also helped out my family in the kitchen.

Where has your career taken you so far?

After school, I went back and studied for two years, cheffing in Christchurch. I thought New Zealand wasn't really going far so I went to Melbourne and was there for two years. I worked at Circa, The Prince in St Kilda and then for six months I worked at Vietnamese restaurant Dandelion. Circa was good for me cause there was also a garden to play in and we had a big wall full of herbs growing in the restaurant. Then I went to London and worked there for two years at Michelin-star restaurant Pied à Terre. Then I met Brendan Walsh, head chef of Pialligo Estate and he brought me back to Canberra.

What's your cooking style?

At the moment I'm doing pastry. I've only been doing it for two years, just when I started at Pialligo, so it's something different. But I do do other cooking. For me, I just like freshness of ingredients.

Who's your foodie inspiration?

Probably Dominique Crenn. She's a female chef supporting other female chefs. I just went to her restaurant at Christmas time so it was pretty amazing.

Young chef Marcus Dimabuyo of Aubergine restaurant.

Young chef Marcus Dimabuyo of Aubergine restaurant. Photo: Karleen Minney

Marcus Dimabuyo - 26 - Aubergine

How did you start cooking?

I think it was in primary school. I watched this show called The Kings of Pastry and then after that I wanted to make it all – the big sugar sculptures and the cakes and everything. And I think from then, every couple of days after school I used to just go home, make something, make a fort and go in and eat it in the fort. So it started from there and then I took cooking [classes] in high school and just sort of carried through.

Where has your career taken you so far?

I got a school-based apprentice at the Hyatt Hotel, and from there I went to Lambert Vineyards, which has closed now. And then I moved to Sydney. I did a couple of casual shifts with Adriano Zumbo, and then I got a job offer from Momofuku [Seiobo]. I started there and stayed in Sydney for another couple of years working at A Tavola in Darlinghurst, and I did a couple of odd jobs with Gelato Messina. I came back to Canberra for family. I had a look around and Ben Willis was looking while I was looking.

What's your cooking style?

I haven't really had a chance to develop it but it's fairly casual – a couple of things on a plate. I still like doing good desserts the most, but at the same time I do like to keep things simple. But really quick plating, no fuss. And having everything work cohesively and still be presentable.

Who's your foodie inspiration?

It's hard to pick. I've really been getting into Mark Best, the way he thinks about things.

Young Canberra chef Jasmine Sawa from Monster.

Photo: Supplied

Jasmine Sawa - 19 - Monster

What are your earliest memories in the kitchen?

I've been cooking for as long as I can remember, in the kitchen with my mum, baking with my nan or making sauerkraut with my opa (grandpa). I've always had a passion for food, asking for cookbooks for Christmas and dragging my parents everywhere to try the latest restaurants. Not being a chef was never really an option, I always just knew that that was what I would do. When I was 15 I did work experience at a local Canberra fine dining restaurant and fell in love with working in a kitchen. I was offered an apprenticeship which I took up and did an Australian school-based apprenticeship which I am completing now. I haven't left the kitchen or looked back since

Where has your career taken you so far?

I have participated in Australian Culinary Federation cooking competitions which have taken me to Sydney, Perth, and New Zealand to compete. Last year I was a finalist for Fonterra Proud to be a Chef which took me to Melbourne for an immersive culinary experience, eating and learning. I also won a CIT and Rotary Club of Canberra culinary scholarship which also took me to Melbourne, working for a week at Andrew McConnell's restaurants, Cutler & Co, Cumulus Inc and Supernormal.

What's your cooking style?

I enjoy a cooking style that honours the ingredients used, using them in season, highlighting their natural beauty and flavour. I enjoy the whole process of food, from growing to presenting to the customer. I have a vegie garden at home which I grow fresh and organic vegetables and get a lot of inspiration from the growers at the Canberra farmers' markets. I also have a love for pastry and baking

Who's your foodie inspiration?

I look up to chefs who are exploring their heritage and the ingredients that grow in the environment around them, chefs that are discovering ingredients that no one used before on their own doorsteps. Ben Sherwy from Attica using Australian ingredients, Virgilio Martinez from Central using Peruvian ingredients and Rene Redzepi from Noma using Nordic ingredients and also Australian and Mexican during his pop up restaurants.

The Young Chefs Lunch will be held at Aubergine at noon on Sunday, March 26. Tickets $150 per person, including four-course lunch and matched drinks, see goodfoodmonth.com/canberra