Mexican-born chef Rogelio Almanza is nothing if not adaptable. After 10 years living and working in Mexico, the United States and Japan, Almanza recently settled in Melbourne, where he's embracing contemporary Middle Eastern flavours at CBD newcomer Souk ("market"), which opened this week.
Ergun Elmas (of Elsternwick's Arabesque) and business partner Vlad Kovacevic have taken over the laneway space that has been home to wine-focused The Deanery since 2002.
They've gutted and brightened the dark two-level space with neon signage, and splashing the Arabic expression "Put him in a whirlpool" (roughly "it totally stunned him"), across the dining room wall. They hope the saying sums up the Souk experience.
Almanza, who counts a stint working under Mexican molecular gastronomer Jose Sanchez as a career highlight, has created a menu that updates Middle Eastern classics.
"Arabian taco" cones are packed with slow-cooked lamb and coriander yoghurt or haloumi and menemen scrambled eggs, and crumbed chicken ribs with ras el hanout spices are cheekily dubbed KFC (Kuwaiti fried chicken).
Cocktails also take a trip to the Levant – Aladdin's Mistress, featuring Moroccan green iced tea, rum and cardamom pods shaken with fresh mint, looks set to be the signature drink.
Souk seats 130 over two levels – 50 at banquettes and booths around the ground-floor bar, and 80 upstairs in the dining room.
Open Mon-Fri 11am-3pm; Mon-Thu 5pm-late; Sat-Sun 5pm-2am.
13 Bligh Place, Melbourne, 03 8597 5444, soukmelbourne.com.au