This may be the era of the staycation, but how many of us can honestly say we have explored the UK? Generally, we prefer to neglect our own backyard in favour of the exotic. Tell people you are travelling to India to look at ancient temples and people reverently agree: “It’ll be amazing.” Visit Birmingham to explore the industrial heritage of its canal network and people ask, quietly: “Are you feeling alright?”
If we holiday in this country (and the tanking pound may soon mean it is our only option), we flock to the honeypots: the Lakes, Cornwall, Pembrokeshire, neglecting less trendy options. I, for instance, have barely explored my native Lancashire, much less the remote flatlands of rural Lincolnshire, a county which now has only its second five-star B&B, the Elm Tree.
It was opened last March by owners Chris and Jonathan Wilkinson-White, who are Lincolnshire lads (Jonathan is the chatty frontman) and can give you the full lowdown on the hidden delights of the nearby Lincolnshire Wolds, the coast around Skegness or the Lancaster bomber at the Aviation Heritage Centre. A comprehensively refurbished 19th-century farmhouse, the four-bedroom property is furnished with antique pieces – chaise longue, ornate dressing tables, beautiful wardrobes – bought in renowned antiques hub Horncastle. Like Louth, Horncastle is one of several handsome market towns that dot the vast and, in its own way, majestic countryside around Lincoln.
Admittedly, Lincolnshire’s charm was less evident on a midweek night in Spilsby. After a dull pint of Bombardier and an even worse half of England v Slovenia in the Red Lion, a 1970s-style exposed-brick boozer, where everyone – older gents playing dominoes; lads bantering over the pool table – seemed to know each other, I was looking forward to heading back to the Elm Tree.
One drawback at the Elm is that its de facto guest lounge – a granny-ish, somewhat gloomy parlour – hardly invites you to hang out. But retiring to your bedroom is no hardship. In all of them, period fireplaces and restored neo-Georgian ceiling mouldings are skilfully blended with modish, neutral colour schemes and antique and upcycled furniture (the reception desk is made from old packing crates) to create four supremely comfortable rooms. There are excellent buttery cookies (Chris used to be a chef), Neal’s Yard toiletries and (hallelujah!) duck-down pillows and heavy duvets.
It is also noticeable that this far out into the sticks you get plenty of space for your money. No boxy, city-centre rooms these. They start sizable (from £90) and top out in Percy Pheasant’s Suite (£150), a huge affair with handmade four-poster bed, rolltop bath, garden views and bling-y touches (chandelier, shimmering gold bathroom wallpaper) that, to me, seem a little OTT. I was billeted here to avoid some noisy calves in a neighbouring barn, but this room would make a superb romantic hideaway.
The Elm Tree has been commended by VisitEngland for its breakfast (served in a smart, neo-chintzy room also used for afternoon teas), and after a false start – dry pastries, incongruous “posh” Aldi yoghurts – it settled into its confident stride: loose-leaf tea, homemade jams, seriously creamy scrambled eggs. The Elm sources fantastic rare-breed sausages from a specialist butcher and Chris produces a neat, greaseless trencherman’s full English – including agreeable sautéed potatoes. Lighter options are available, but you can work it off walking in the surprisingly hilly wolds or scouring the local antique yards. All safe in the knowledge that the tourist hordes have yet to make it this far east.
• Accommodation was provided by the Elm Tree (doubles from £90, 01790 753534, elmtree.co.uk). For more information, see visitlincolnshire.com
Ask a local
Astrid Gatenby, visitor experience manager, Gunby Hall, Spilsby
• Nature
I love walking in the nature reserves managed by Lincolnshire Wildlife Trust: my favourites are Snipe Dales and Gibraltar Point. In November and December hundreds of grey seals come to have their pups at Donna Nook. It’s a wildlife spectacular.
• Eat
In Spilsby, Deli-E11even does delicious sandwiches and cakes. One of my favourite restaurants is The Lakes in Burgh le Marsh.
• Film
The historic Kinema in the Woods in Woodhall Spa is a unique setting in which to catch a film. An old cinema organ is played during the interval.
View all comments >