I’m bored!
Amsterdam East, the “Brooklyn of Amsterdam”, offers a pleasant alternative to the usual tourist jaunts. Its recently redeveloped Oosterpark has a new public playground and terraced Grand Café De Tropen ). Right next door is one of the grandest, but lesser-known Amsterdam museum, the Tropenmuseum (adult €15, child €8). This anthropological museum houses an astounding collection of 175,000 artefacts and offers interactive exhibits and immersive experiences. My children’s personal favourites include the extensive collection of musical instruments for hands-on play, as well as the dozens of short films and educational games. At weekends children aged 4-12 can get crafty at the Travelling Tales exhibition.
While Amsterdam is synonymous with cycling, I wouldn’t recommend a family biking tour in the busy centre. Opt instead for a “countryside” tour. Cruising the Dutch landscape in a bakfiets (the quintessential Dutch family bike or child transporter) puts an adventurous spin on the family biking experience. WeBike Amsterdam (four-hour group tour €32.50pp, under-2s free) offers family-friendly packages and private tours. Visit a picturesque Dutch village while pedalling past windmills and waterways. A huge hit with our family was the midway break at a cosy cafe with traditional Dutch apple pie.
The National Maritime Museum (adult €15, child €7.50) colourfully investigates how the sea shaped Dutch culture and history and is popular with local families. Within walking distance of Centraal Station, the stunning former naval warehouse overlooks Amsterdam’s eastern docklands. The moored replica of the 18th-century Dutch East India Company ship, the Amsterdam, is a guaranteed hit – my kids love climbing aboard and exploring its multi-levelled quarters.
Local tip
For savings on museums, attractions and canal cruises, consider the I Amsterdam City Card. A 48-hour city card costs €67pp, plus many museums already offer free entrance or special discounts for children, so check their websites in advance.
Where are the other kids?
All of the city’s larger public parks (Beatrixpark, Vondelpark, Westerpark, Oosterpark, Amstelpark and Flevopark) have free, well-maintained and entertaining play areas. A remarkable number of free “children’s farms” (kinderboederij) and petting zoos can be found across the city. Local favourites include the Stadsboerderij Zimmerhoeve, the Dierencapel and the Kinderboederij de Pijp. The exceptional adventure parks – Jeugdland and Woest Westen – offer hours of outdoor play. Again, both are free, but bring a change of clothes, as things can get muddy!
I’m hungry
The food market, Foodhallen, is inside Amsterdam’s newest cultural complex, De Hallen. The former train depot has 20 food stalls, including De Ballenbar, which sells deep-fried bitterballen (meat croquettes) – a trip to the Netherlands would not be complete without sampling them. I’d recommend arriving at De Hallen early with children, as it can become crowded by evening.
In a refurbished pumping station in Amsterdam West, the atmospheric Restaurant Cafe Amsterdam (mains from €13) is known for its top-notch food and casual, friendly vibe. Parents can enjoy a spectacular shellfish platter or steak frites, while child-friendly options include pasta, hamburgers and fish fingers. A separate children’s menu is available at weekends. My children were delighted with the Kinder Surprise eggs for dessert.
Combining a meal and a boat ride is a great way to keep children fed and entertained. The Pancake Boat (Fri-Sun only) is a picturesque 2½-hour boat ride along Amsterdam’s IJ river, combining all-you-can-eat pancakes, a ball pit and a quiet upper deck area. Tickets cost €21.50 for children and €26.50 for adults, including the boat tour and an endless supply of Dutch pannekoeken.
I’m tired
The city is full of family-friendly, affordable accommodation. For the comforts of an apartment, try either Airbnb or Kid & Coe. Look in Amsterdam East and West to find well-priced apartments within walking distance of shops, restaurants and parks.
Opened in August 2016, Hotel V Fizeaustraat (rooms from €100 B&B) is an affordable design hotel close to Amstel station. The modernist building was designed by Piet Zanstra some 40 years ago as an office block but has been renovated in period style with 1970s furniture. Cots are available free of charge and extra beds for older children are €50 each (including breakfast).
Colleen Geske is founder of the website Stuff Dutch People Like and author of a book of the same name plus three other books in the series
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