The best of Bangkok: readers’ travel tips

From a condom-themed restaurant to a very sobering medical museum, a snake farm and ubiquitous markets, the frenetic Thai capital is a cornucopia of delights

A waiter wears a condom on his head at the Cabbages and Condoms restaurant.
Protection racket … a waiter wears a condom on his head at the Cabbages and Condoms restaurant. Photograph: Alamy

Winning tip: Cabbages and Condoms restaurant

Try Cabbages and Condoms, a restaurant in the Sukhumvit district opened in conjunction with the government’s Population and Community Development Association, which promotes family planning across Thailand. In the restaurant, this translates as interior design: “flourishes” such as extravagant condom light fittings, surrealist condom trellis artworks and – frankly ominous – condom sentries guarding the entrance. Menu was outstanding.
pda.or.th
theggondorf

Surgical spirit at Siriraj Medical Museum

While trying to find free things to do on our first visit to Bangkok we came across this museum on the same site as the Siriraj hospital in Wang Leng. This museum is not for the faint-hearted. It tells a gruesome tale of Thailand’s medical history, with lots of specimens, some of which are weird and gross. There is an interesting section about the 2004 tsunami, with some accounts from doctors and nurses who flew out to help.
Lau1234

Stunning skyline views

Banyan Tree Rooftop Vertigo and Moon Bar
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Banyan Tree Rooftop Vertigo and Moon Bar Photograph: Alamy

For the best view of the city, take the lift to the Vertigo and Moon bar on the 61st floor of the Banyan Tree Hotel. You don’t need to be a resident, or even buy a drink, to enjoy this stunning overview of the city. There aren’t many places you can get such an experience for free, and it’s even better at night.
banyantree.com
ID918748

Books, tea and a toastie

Passport Bookshop, Bangkok
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Passport bookshop

After hours walking around in the heat, feeling hot and sticky, I stumbled across Passport bookshop on Phra Sumen road. It’s tiny, quiet and cool with a few small tables to sit at with a cup of tea. There were even cheese toasties! A great spot to step out of the madness for an hour or two.
ID8172478

Canal plus – explore Bangkok’s khlongs

Boats navigate Khlong (Canal) Bang Luang in Bangkok
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Photograph: Alamy

Many tourist itineraries feature a cruise along the Chao Phraya river, but for a more authentic view of local life, venture into the city’s network of khlongs (canals). Hire a colourful longtail boat, or hop on and off one of the ubiquitous water taxis, and get ready to be transported into another world. Pass under ornate Italian bridges and drift past ramshackle wooden stilt houses and walkways hanging precariously over the “fragrant” water. Stop off at silk entrepreneur Jim Thompson’s house, or shop till you drop at the contrasting Bobae wholesale clothes market and ultra-modern Siam Square.
cr7364

Gem of a riverside guesthouse

New Siam guesthouse, Bangkok
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The New Siam guesthouse in the old city is well situated for tourists – it’s close to a riverboat stop and the market – and cheap (doubles from £10). Friends recommended this B&B years ago and we have always come back to stay here. I think it’s a real gem.
newsiam.net
fberkhout

Makes tracks to the train market

A train passes through the Maeklong market
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A train passes through the Maeklong market. Photograph: Laura Wozniak

Eight times a day, seven days a week, this train passes – quite literally – through the Maeklong market. Vendors have to quickly remove their stalls from the tracks then resume as if nothing has happened. It’s rather spectacular. The easiest way to get there is to book a half-day tour, which includes the infamous Damnoen Saduak floating market.
Laura Wozniak

Snakes on a farm

A malayan mangrove snake at the Bangkok snake farm
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A malayan mangrove snake at the Bangkok snake farm. Photograph: Alamy

This doesn’t sound like a holiday activity but visit the Bangkok Snake Farm at the Red Cross institute and discover the important work that goes on here. Witness a live venom extraction by experts from a King Cobra – it will leave you breathless.
ID3843121
saovabha.com

Fill your lungs

City skyline with Lumphini Park, the Green Lung of Bangkok
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City skyline and Lumphini park, the ?Green Lung’ of Bangkok. Photograph: Alamy

To escape the frenetic city, cross the river and head to the Green Lung (Bang Krachao). A gorgeous, lush jungle so named for its colour, shape and for its un-Bangkok-like fresh air. Rent a bike on arrival and explore its narrow jungle paths.
Charlie Hayes

Go to the top floor of Terminal 21

Terminal 21
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Photograph: Alamy

Thai street food is becoming a bit less accessible along Sukhumvit road. The top floor of Terminal 21, at the Asoke BTS/Sukhumvit MRT station interchange, has some of the best priced and quality “street food” anywhere in the city. It’s cheap and relatively clean but it’s very crowded when locals are buying their lunch.
Brian Connell

Sunset aerobics

People do group arobics in Lumphini Park.
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People do group arobics in Lumphini park. Photograph: Stephen J Boitano/Getty Images

When the sun’s going down, the fun’s coming out at Lumphini park, where locals work out to the kitsch Thai tunes that will bring on a sweat hotter than a jungle curry.
ID2437665

Tuck in at the night market

Rod Fai Market Ratchada in Bangkok
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Rod Fai night market. Photograph: Alamy

After a disappointing night at the pricey bars around Ekkamai, we were thrilled to find the new Rod Fai night market in Ratchada. It’s hugely popular with young locals, giving it a vibrant and local energy that we’d been craving. There’s an undeniably hipster edge to it – VW vans converted into food stalls and bars adorned with fairy lights – but the variety on offer means there’s something for everyone.
Jack Grange

The humble public bus

Bus in Bangkok
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Photograph: Alamy

Skip taxi touts and tuk-tuks. Take the rickety public buses of Bangkok for a real adventure. Bus information, especially in English, is scarce online, the bus drivers understand close to no English (but are very helpful), while hotels and tourist centres usually have no idea which bus heads where. So why bother? Bus-hopping allowed us to experience how the Thais do public transport, and the warmth and spontaneous helpfulness of local passengers was a hugely pleasant surprise. Fares are also incredibly cheap, and some are even free.
Ernest Tan

Great Thai omelettes

Chinatown is spectacular but obvious, so instead try out the alleys off Sukhumvit road near Asok BTS Skytrain station for the most fabulous Thai omelettes fried in dark oil and scattered with vinegar, chili and mustard seeds. We washed ours down with sodas from the fridge buzzing noisily next to us as scooters threaded their way through customers seated on low plastic stools.
Rose Marwood