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London Fashion Week: androgyny is the new black as labels bend gender rules

Normally when one thinks of Burberry, images of tartan, trench coats and basset hounds come to mind.

Throw all that out because at its London Fashion Week show overnight, the Brit label has shown that it can push the boundaries with the best of them.

First, there was the gender-bending collection, which eschewed defined lines between men's and women's wear like the toilets at many a Sydney and Melbourne nightclub.

Before a front row that included Naomi Campbell and Olivia Palermo, creative director Christopher Bailey featured striped tops worn under one-shoulder dresses and Victorian-inspired shirting..

The collection was inspired by the British sculptor Henry Moore, whose famed bronze sculptures, often of reclining figures, are renowned public artworks all over the world. (Incidentally, a giant bust of Moore, weighing six tonnes, is located at Yeoval, in central western NSW.) 

In Britain, where same-sex marriage has been legal for nearly three years (wake up, Australia!) and can claim Freddie Mercury and David Bowie as its progeny, it should come as little surprise that its designers, even the ones with a heritage steeped in British pomp, are moving with the genderless times.

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In a nod to the gender-bending 1970s and '80s, relative newcomers Oliver Thame and Robert Sanders also sent male models in women's clothes down the runway in what is meant to be a women's fashion week, but the lines of which are increasingly blurring..

Sanders told the BBC he used to dress in his mother's clothes, a fact that has inspired the 25-year-old's collection of tunics, skirts and shorts.

Kilts aside, skirts for men have never really taken off but change may be in the air. If Burberry can send a male model down the runway in a "female" cable-knit sweater and a handbag, who knows what may be next. 

Burberry has also been one of the game changers leading the charge in the "see now, buy now" movement that is placing more power in the hands of consumers to shop the runway, rather than wait months for the collections shown to land in stores.

It's a strategy that has been pioneered in Australia successfully by the Melbourne Fashion Festival, which kicks off on March 1.

While it remains to be seen whether any male models will walk in female designs, or whether skirts will pop-up in the menswear show March 17, it's safe to say the National Graduate Showcase, featuring some of the country's top new designers, will contain a few surprises a la London.