I’m bored!
Most kids quickly tire of walking, so make it more interesting with a stroll along Les Berges de Seine, a scenic stretch of river starting from the Musée D’Orsay. Climbing frames, painted floor mazes, hopscotch, board games and seasonal, pop-up play apparatus are just a few of the things that will keep children entertained.
Alternatively, a family-friendly bike tour of the city is a good way to see some of the sights. FatTireTours provides informative morning tours in English, passing by the Eiffel Tower and through the Tuilieries Gardens. Riding options include tandems and bike seats (adult €34, kids €32, under 3s free).
Head off the beaten track to Parc de Belleville near Couronnes Metro station in the 20th arrondissement, set on a slope and home to a waterfall. The wooden play structure is a winner with kids and on a clear day there are great views of the city. We like family-friendly Le Lapin Blanc (84 rue de Menilmontant), 10 minutes away, for a light lunch .
My kids love the Pompidou Centre in the Marais district. It’s free for under-18s accompanied by an adult with a €14 museum and exhibitions ticket; the Galerie des Enfants has interactive playful exhibits for kids aged 3-10. The “Pompi” has special sessions for teenagers, too. Book its art workshops online – although parents can get involved, we leave the kids to it and two hours later they reappear clutching a work of art. Despite the language barrier at times, the creative process is understood by all – for just €10 each, they can unleash their inner Picasso. It’s worth noting that “workshop” tickets means “priority queue” at the entrance.
If you have little kids in tow, avoid the Louvre – unless you invest in a kid-friendly tour such as the ThatLou treasure hunt in English (€15).
Where are all the other kids?
Most Parisians live in apartments, so the city’s parks provide a place for kids to run wild. Jardin du Luxembourg in the 6th arrondissement is a favourite. At its centre is the Grand Bassin duck pond, where children can hire vintage wooden toy boats and manoeuvre them across the water with long sticks (€3.50 for 30 minutes). The large playground is worth the €2 entrance fee. On Wednesdays and weekends, join Parisian families at the Theatre des Marionettes and watch a traditional French puppet show for €6pp. Next to the playground is the recently opened La Table du Luxembourg restaurant, run by top chef Philippe Renard; it does a tasty Sunday brunch for €40, half-price for kids.
The French adore Le Cité des Sciences in Parc Villette in the 19th arrondissement. Book the special 90-minute sessions for children aged 2-7 or 7-12 from Tuesday to Sunday. Accompanied by you, the kids wander through a series of interactive experiments. Tickets cost €12, or €9 for under-25s; arrive 30 minutes beforehand.
I’m hungry
Most traditional French restaurants offer child’s meals of fish or steak with chips at a discounted price and they’ll often split an adult portion between two. A popular mini-chain for meat-loving children is Relais d’Entrecote.
My kids love Mamie Gateaux, a quintessential French salon de thè in the 6th arrondissement not far from Jardin du Luxembourg. The daily menu (not Sundays or Mondays) of homemade quiche, salads, soups and cakes is delicious (€11.50 for quiche and a drink, €15.50 with dessert).
When we visit Jardin des Plantes in the 5th arrondissement, we head behind it to Aux Portes De L’Orient, at La Grande Mosquée, which serves heart-warming tagines and mint teas to families from noon seven days a week.
I’m tired
Staying in the 5th, 6th or 7th arrondissement keeps you central, with access to amenities, great transport links and quick access to city sites. Paris Perfect is a respected rental agency: its one-bedroom Volnay apartment sleeps four from €312 a night.
Claudette Parry is founder of the Mama Loves Paris website
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