Quinoa, the sacred "mother grain" of the ancient Inca civilisation suppressed by Spanish conquistadors, could become an increasingly important food source thanks to genetic secrets revealed in a new study.
Scientists on Wednesday said they had mapped the genome of quinoa and identified a gene that could be manipulated to get rid of the seed's natural bitter taste and pave the way for more widespread commercial use.
![A quinoa salad from a recipe by US chef Melissa D'arabian.](/web/20170212030708im_/http://www.smh.com.au/content/dam/images/g/u/8/w/p/f/image.related.articleLeadwide.620x349.gu8v1y.png/1486599904939.jpg)
Quinoa (pronounced KIN-wah) grows well in harsh conditions such as salty and low-quality soil, high elevations and cool temperatures, meaning it can flourish in locales where common cereal crops such as wheat and rice may struggle.
But the presence of toxic and bitter chemicals called saponins in its seeds has been one of the impediments to extensive cultivation.
![A quinoa plant, flowering three months before it will be harvested, in Bolivia.](/web/20170212030708im_/http://www.smh.com.au/content/dam/images/g/u/8/w/q/l/image.related.articleLeadwide.620x349.gu8v1y.png/1486599904939.jpg)
Plant scientist Mark Tester of King Abdullah University of Science and Technology in Saudi Arabia said the research pinpointed a gene that guides the production of saponins in quinoa.
This knowledge could enable breeding of quinoa without saponins to make the seeds sweeter.
Now quinoa must be processed through washing and drying after harvest to remove saponins.
"Quinoa is currently greatly underutilised," said Professor Tester, who led the research, published in the journal Nature.
![A Bolivian farmer prepares quinoa.](/web/20170212030708im_/http://www.smh.com.au/content/dam/images/g/u/8/w/q/e/image.related.articleLeadwide.620x349.gu8v1y.png/1486599904939.jpg)
"It is highly nutritious, with a high protein content that, importantly, has a very good balance of amino acids, which is unusual for our major grains. It is gluten free and high in vitamins and minerals, too."
Increased quinoa production could improve food security on a planet with unrelenting human population growth, Professor Tester said.
![A US farmer harvests his quinoa crop.](/web/20170212030708im_/http://www.smh.com.au/content/dam/images/g/u/8/w/o/m/image.related.articleLeadwide.620x349.gu8v1y.png/1486599904939.jpg)
There are potential disadvantages to reducing saponins, perhaps increasing susceptibility to fungal infections or bird predation, he added.
Quinoa, which has a nutty flavour, can be used in the same way as rice and wheat. It can be cooked and served on its own, turned into pasta, put in soups, eaten as a cereal or fermented to make beer or chicha, a beverage of the Andes.
The crop was sacred to the ancient Incas, who called it "chisoya mama" or the "mother grain".
During their South American conquest 500 years ago, Spaniards suppressed quinoa cultivation because of its use in indigenous religious ceremonies. They forbade quinoa cultivation for a time, with the Incas forced to grow wheat instead.
Quinoa is still a minor crop globally, grown mostly in Peru and Bolivia. It has become fashionable in the West in recent years, primarily as a health food.
Quinoa, a seed, is related to species such as beets and spinach, but is confused by many as a grain.
Reuters