Highlights of Yucatán: readers’ travel tips

Uncrowded ruins, an underwater sculpture park, hidden cenotes and authentic places to eat in popular spots are among the Mexican secrets shared by readers

Man jumping into one of the Siete Bocas
One of the Siete Bocas (Seven Mouths) – limestone holes with clear freshwater pools beneath, near Puerto Morelos. Photograph: John Clayton

Winning tip: jumping into one of the seven mouths

Get up early and be the first to arrive at Siete Bocas ($15pp), one of the many underground lakes or cenotes in Yucatán. These are off the tour-group trail, leaving you alone in the jungle to plunge through the limestone holes into the clear freshwater pools and the chance to take a slightly daunting but amazing underground swim. The best way to get there is to cycle the flat 10 miles from Puerto Morelos, the first town south of Cancún. Bikes and scooters can be rented in Puerto Morelos or Cancún (intercity buses carry bikes for a small fee).
john_clayton

Cycle Tulum

Three Women Riding Bikes on Path with Trees
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Photograph: Eden Batki/Getty Images

I’d recommend renting a bicycle in Tulum as the local cenotes, the beach and the town itself are set apart from one other. Cenote Calavera is the nearest to the town but less frequented than others in the area with the exception of the occasional cave-diver. It is a perfect stop for a fresh water soak after pushing the pedals in the Yucatán heat.
johnkennedy

Ek Balam archaeological site, Valladolid

Ek Balam Maya pyramid
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Photograph: Getty Images

For a less touristic Mayan experience, head to the Ek Balam complex an hour north of Valladolid. The ruins are set deep in the jungle and have a more authentic feel than the famous, but crowded, Chichen Itza. After a few hours exploring the ruins, cool off in the nearby Cenote Xcan Ché, which boasts crystal-clear water.
jbridge90

Hidden pyramids of Coba by bike

Coba is an ancient Maya city
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Photograph: Getty Images

As spectacular as Chichen Itza is, you can’t avoid the crowds. Unlike Coba hidden in the jungle two to three hours on the bus from Cancún. There were only a handful of visitors the morning we went – it felt like a hidden treasure. You can hire a bike and meander along the paths in search of the climbable pyramids with breathtaking views from the top above the tree canopy … as long as you’re not afraid of heights.
swinny00

Bacalar, lagoon of seven colours

turquoise water  in Bacalar lagoon,
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Photograph: Getty Images

Bacalar, in the south of the peninsula about 1½ hours south of Tulum, was one of the first towns in the Yucatán conquered by the Spanish conquistadores in the 16th century, and by the 17th century it was a popular port for pirates to loot, stock up on food and to steal women. Bacalar is known as the lagoon of seven colours and is absolutely breathtaking. Depending on your vantage point and the time of day, the lagoon appears to have many different colours. The water is warm, clear and perfectly calm to swim, snorkel and kayak in.
Sexico Disco

Colourful Valladolid

Valladolid, Mexico
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Photograph: Alamy

Though well located for a trip to Chichen Itza, this town is a fab place in its own right. Its grid of pastel-coloured houses reminded me of cobbled streets in Trinidad, Cuba. There is a buzzing zócalo with great shopping, a chocolate factory and a stunning cenote in the town with other cenotes a few kilometres away by bike. For those on a budget, Hostel La Candelaria (doubles from £19) is lovely, with yummy breakfasts included and bike rental. Don’t miss the food at Yerbabuena, which is especially good for veggies.
Fabia Lewis

Swim through Xcarat’s underground rivers

Green macaws in Xcaret park.
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Green macaws in Xcaret park. Photograph: Getty Images

The ecological and archaeology park at Xcaret is a day trip from Cancún, and seems expensive (£72 a day adult) but you can swim through the network of underground rivers, and watch dolphins in the lagoon. There are monkeys, birdlife and butterflies to enjoy as you walk through the park. You need to use the park’s own creams, which are designed not to damage the beautiful environment.
xcaret.com
Doug Bishop

Blissful Isla Holbox

Beach and hammocks on Isla Holbox.
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Photograph: skwilkinson

For a Mexican island adventure, swap Isla Mujeres for the quieter Isla Holbox. A £4 ferry ride from the north coast of the Yucatán peninsula lies this sun-strewn island with abundant wildlife. Stay at Hostel Tribu for backpacker-style but hotel-standard accommodation, with en suite rooms from £30 a night. Walk with flamingos on white sand lagoons; snorkel with rays and turtles in turquoise waters; and plunge into the deep to swim in the majesty of whale sharks and manta rays. Bliss.
skwilkinson

Sound and light show, Chichen Itza

Noches de KuKulkan, Chichen Itza.
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Photograph: Picasa/H Sullivan

Don’t miss out on the free light and sound show at Chichen Itza. It isn’t well-advertised – you have to apply through the website for tickets but it runs every night and is the most breathtaking show. Try to time it when there’s a full moon rising. Unmissable!
nochesdekukulkan.com
H Sullivan

Feel at home in Tulum

L’Hotelito, Tulum, Mexico.
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L’Hotelito, Tulum

I visited Tulum for about five days after travelling around the country for three weeks. I had a lovely stay in chilled out, colourful Hotelito (doubles from about £45). I can only recommend popping by Batey for a watermelon mojito and live music in the evening. And during the day head to the beach near the ruins: it’s actually less touristy than the big resorts closer to the main road.
Sonia Carrera

Back road to Mayapán

Temple of Painted Niches, Mayapan
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Temple of Painted Niches, Mayapan. Photograph: Richard Maschmeyer/Getty Images

Instead of the more direct route from Merida to Mayapán, we took the scenic route heading south towards Muna and turning east at Abala. The road narrowed and directed us mostly straight through a bright tunnel of trees and vines that seemed endless. Sensing we were nearing the end we came upon X-kan cha a kan, a small village with a lovely old church and a fine well-maintained hacienda. We lingered here a while enjoying the quiet cool beneath the ceiba trees enjoying the magnificent hacienda with its unique clock tower. Then on to the stunning Mayapán a short drive further, which we had to ourselves.
peter roth

La Perla: authenticity in a tourist town

La perla pixan restaurant
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Playa del Carmen, south of Cancún on the road to Tulum, is a really touristy spot but La Perla restaurant has an extraordinary, authentic Pixan menu and an array of mezcals unlike anything we’d ever seen anywhere else. Delicious and adventurous.
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Beer oasis in Playa del Carmen

Club de la Cerveza - Playa del Carmen
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In Mexico it is very difficult for a bar to have its own beer menu independent of the big conglomerates (bar licenses are expensive but paid for by the big brewers – if the bar owner agrees to stock only their beers) but the Club de la Cerveza in Playa Del Carmen is a notable exception. It has carved out a niche serving Mexican craft beers thanks to a brave self-funding initiative by the owner Miquel. So head up 5th Ave and celebrate his courage with a artisanal IPA or stout.
clubdelacerveza.mx
CTombu

Flamingos in their thousands in Celestun

Large colony of flamingoes in the mangrove swamps of The Celestun Biosphere Reserve
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Photograph: Getty Images

On arrival, Celestun looks like many other sleepy Yucután towns. But take a boat out to one of its surrounding lagoons and you’ll find yourself in a dream: thousands of flamingos gather in the area to feed and court as you float among them. Other local wildlife includes rainbow-hued hummingbirds, rare herons and a portly crocodile sunning itself on the bank. Also worth a mention is Nicte Ha - a restaurant on Calle 10 in town that served the best ceviche we had on our trip and continued the birding theme with its beautiful flamingo mural.
Selene Pearson

Uxmal rather than Chichen Itza

Uxmal Mayan ruins
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Photograph: Peter Newbold

When deciding which Mayan ruins to visit, note that Chichen Itza is crowded, access to the ruins is restricted by barriers and every shady spot is full of souvenir vendors. For us, Uxmal was equally impressive but with only a fraction of the visitors, much better access to the ruins themselves and without the annoying sound of souvenir vendors blowing their animal noise whistles.
Peter Newbold

Eco retreat near Ek Balam

Genesis Eco resort
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We stayed in Ek Balam pueblo at Genesis Eco Oasis, where the owner promotes mutually beneficial interaction with local people, such as a visit to her farm to see how they cope with draught and hurricanes, and to her Maya friend to make tortillas and chocolate as her ancestors did. We felt this experience helps prevent the devastating cultural and environmental impact of mass tourism.
Doubles from $45 a night, genesisretreat.com
Nanda Whiles

Isla Mujeres underwater sculpture park

underwater sculpture park Isla Mujeres
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Photograph: Alamy

Isla Mujeres is a beautiful little island that had two problems: its fishing industry was no longer profitable and the local coral reef was dying. Its solution was to create an underwater sculpture park that acted as both an artificial reef but also ensured visitors kept coming. The 400 statues were made from moulds of local residents as well as the odd curious sculpture (like the VW car). It’s roughly eight metres deep and the visibility is very good, so even if you’re not a diver, slip on a snorkel and have a look from the surface.
Carey Dive Center has visits for $70pp
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