So, where?
In the thickly forested slopes of the Low Tatras mountains, Jasná is Slovakia’s number one ski resort. Though travel guides sometimes file the region under eastern Europe, locals prefer to think of themselves as central Europe, having long since shaken off the iron curtain and invested in a lift system every bit as modern as that of its Alpine neighbours. Jasná is just a 40-minute drive from the nearest airport, Poprad Tatry, and is also within three hours from the low-cost hubs of Bratislava and Kosice, plus Krakow in Poland.
Why try it?
It’s never been easier or quicker to reach this little-known gem, thanks to new flights from Luton to Poprad with Wizz Air (from about £55 return). Once there, you can expect stunning landscapes, well-groomed pistes and a warm welcome in a resort that has yet to be overrun with tourists. Best of all, it’s still seriously cheap – beer is €2 a pint on the mountain, €1 in town. Val d’Isère this ain’t.
Mountain lowdown
Jasná’s pistes tumble from the north and south sides of Mount Chopok. At 2,000 metres, this picturesque peak won’t challenge the glaciers of France and Austria for altitude, but winters here are cold and with €160m recently invested in infrastructure and snowmaking, you can be confident of hitting good conditions.
The modern lift system covers 40km and is divided into four areas – Lucky, Zaharadky, Biela Put and Otupne – which does away with end-of-day bottlenecks. There’s the typical mix of express chairlifts, gondolas and drag lifts, and the tree-lined runs are among the most scenic in Europe – the views over the wooded Tatras are a constant reminder that you’re not in France.
With plenty of gentler slopes, beginners and families are well-catered-for; experienced skiers and snowboarders can make for one of 12 off-piste “freeride zones”, which offer challenging natural terrain with fantastic tree runs. Stick within the resort boundaries and you will always come back to a lift line or track. Unlike in the Alps, moreover, there are fresh powder lines to be had long after a snowfall.
And apart from skiing?
There are limited options at the base of the mountain; most of the action takes place in the nearby town of Liptovsky Mikulas, which has a bowling alley, a cinema and a go-karting track – and these are all great value, with not a stag do in sight. For a local experience, try an ice hockey match, or lounge in the Tatralandia aquapark (entrance free with a ski pass).
Après any good?
Up in the resort, the Happy End bar is the only watering hole of note. It’s a huge venue/restaurant that hosts occasional events and is open till 5pm in the week and till the early hours Thursday to Saturday during the season. Again, for more entertainment, downtown Liptovsky Mikulas is the place. There are numerous restaurants, and some ludicrously cheap boozers. Grab a steak at Route 66 before hitting the nightclub upstairs for sequins and Europop.
What to eat?
After a full day on the hill, you’ll welcome a plate of Slovakian comfort food, invariably heavy on garlic and stodge. Try bryndzové halušky – potato dumplings with goat’s cheese – and settle in for the inevitable food coma. Fortunately, the locals have an effective antidote: Zlaty Bazant, a local pilsner served ice cold at a price that’s as refreshing as the taste.
Where to stay
UK-based chalet holiday operator Propaganda has four properties in the Jasná area (from £159pp for seven nights, including breakfast, transfers and guiding). Another UK-owned agency, Ski Jasna, offers hand-picked hotels, B&Bs and apartments (from £165pp for seven nights).
The nitty gritty
Jasná has 42km of pistes and 28 lifts. Highest altitude 2,024m
Good for: value, scenery, families, culture, quick transfers
Limitations: not as vast, high, or snow-sure as the Alpine super resorts; not much après in the resort itself
Costs: lift pass adult £147 a week, child £114; beer €2
• Green runs 0
• Blue runs 13
• Red runs 15
• Black runs 6
Limitations: not ideal for beginners, and transfers can be slow
• More information at jasna.sk and jasnaskipass.com
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