Geneva is like that guy, or girl, you underestimated in high school: slightly square and easily passed over for someone more dynamic. When you take a second look, however, maybe a decade later, you see a cultured, vibrant denizen of the world. That's Geneva.

These days the city offers a thriving food scene, the charming district of Carouge, quirky museums, outdoor markets and great shopping – all set against the expansive beauty of Lake Geneva and the soaring Alps.

Don't be afraid to go off-script in terms of what Geneva is known for – chocolate, watches and fondue – and instead head for what's simply the best, even if it's Japanese food, to get a better sense of the well-roundedness of the city. Then steer towards more unexpected variations of the city's staples.

The best part is that Geneva is easily, and very rewardingly, conquered in a weekend.

Friday

3pm | An inkling of Italy

Take the highly efficient Swiss tram 10 minutes from downtown to Carouge, across the Arve River, which has Italian architecture, as well as sophisticated shops and an intimate scale that's reminiscent of New York's West Village. Here you'll find a welcome reprieve from the big, ubiquitous brand names that dominate other parts of the city. Shop the small artisan boutiques. A few not to be missed: Papillon sells Italian cashmere. Stop in Tropicolor for indigenous art and housewares from Madagascar such as colourful placemats. Preppy Luxury specialises in menswear from Italy, while La Librerit carries a large selection of children's French-language books. Caffeinate along the way at Valmandin, an artisanal coffee roaster.

7pm | High-end lounging

The British designer Timothy Oulton not only has an upscale furniture store on the fashionable Rue du Rhône in a gleaming shopping mall, but turns the space into a bar and nightclub in the evening. Amid the cured-leather upholstery, you can get a whiff of the luxurious Geneva life – a well-coiffed and -suited crowd seems to head here after work to start the night in style. Everything is for sale, including the bar stools. Cocktails run to about 23 to 28 Swiss francs ($30-36). The champagne is also good.

8.30pm | Local flair

This does not mean fondue – we'll get to that – but Nagomi, the Japanese restaurant of choice for in-the-know locals who want mouth-watering fish. It turns out the Genevans have a serious passion for sushi. The restaurant has no website and almost feels as if you need a secret password to get in. Start with their seafood salad, then move on to an assortment of sushi paired with a glass of rosé. Finish with the plum wine sorbet. Expect to pay about 150 to 200 francs for two, including alcohol. Reservations strongly recommended.

Saturday

9am | Time to watch

Grab some brioches, fruit sodas and coffee from the authentic Italian bakery Mafalda Tavola Calda in the St Gervais area. Then get your first taste of Swiss watch culture at M.A.D. Gallery (M.A.D. stands for Mechanical Art Devices) on Rue Verdaine. The gallery specialises in and sells artistic pieces of exquisite engineering, many inspired by Swiss watches, from a global base of artists whose works are linked with mechanisms and machinery. Ask any of the friendly staff for a tour of their workshop or to explain the physical craftsmanship behind the artwork that is all the more spellbinding in juxtaposition with our virtual and digital age.

11am | The gran cru of chocolate

There's certainly no shortage of chocolate in Geneva, so the question is which place to choose to sample it. Try Sweetzerland Chocolats, an elegant and minimalist shop. It's where Russian tourists come to buy chocolate by the kilo. Here's why: it is made from guaranteed pure cocoa butter with no palm oil or preserving agents. The taste, in other words, is sublime. Sweetzerland makes small batches of truffles that come in exotic flavours such as forest honey, bergamot tea, ginger and whisky. Expect to pay 1.40 francs a truffle and 10 francs for a bar of the real stuff (80 per cent cacao).

Noon | Bottom-to-top views

Start at the bottom of the St Pierre Cathedral by heading to the Archeological Site, an elaborate museum built on the oldest known spot in the city. Situated amid the actual medieval ruins beneath the cathedral, the museum will guide you through the history of Geneva from Roman times into the Middle Ages. Then, make your way upstairs to the cathedral itself and climb the 150-plus steps into the towers for panoramic views of modern Geneva (16 francs for a combined ticket).

2pm | Feast of fondue

When locals crave fondue they go to Café du Soleil, a bit away from the main tourist drags. Café du Soleil makes its fondue with only one kind of cheese: gruyère, giving it a creamy, consistent flavour. The gruyère is selected from the village of La Roche. When you are finished with the pot, be sure to ask your waiter to scrape the bottom cheese off for you, known locally as the religieuse. Leave room for dessert, in particular the house-made chocolate mousse, and the meringue and gruyère cream. A meal, including drinks, will cost about 100 francs.

4.30pm | History through time

Spread over four floors in a historic building, Patek Philippe Museum isn't a homage just to the high-end watchmaker but to the history of measuring time. Through the four floors of countless precious specimens, you'll see how Geneva became a watchmaking centre and exported this unique art and science to other countries. The museum displays some of the most complicated watches in the world, not to mention some of the most unusual – such as a Garden of Eden watch with a snake second hand that circles every minute. There are free tours in English every Saturday at 2.30pm. Entrance is 10 francs.

7.30pm | Haute hipster cuisine

If you still think Geneva is staid and passé, your moment of enlightenment has arrived. From an Italian and Argentine pair – Paulo Airaudo and Francesco Gasbarro – comes La Bottega, which opened in 2015 and has already received a Michelin star for its innovative Italian cuisine, some of which is served on bark. The four-course tasting menu is a relative bargain starting at 75 francs (without wine) and includes small but delicious portions of dishes such as veal cappelletti (small dumplings), perfectly cooked hake and pan-seared sea scallops. Desserts are inventive with out-of-the-box flavours such as kumquat. Dinner is about 200 francs, including drinks, for two.

10pm | Bar hop

On one street, Boulevard Georges-Favon, a lively spot, there are three bars right in a row with something for everyone. L'Apothicaire Cocktail Club serves elaborate cocktails in sumptuous glasses. Try one with ginger. Barbershop is more of a typical dive bar with beers on tap and a livelier crowd. KYtaly is the most subdued, a wine bar with an extensive selection.

Sunday

10am | Steam it off

Head along the Rhône River to where it meets Lake Geneva, then follow Quai Gustave-Ador along the lake's scenic southern edge. Make sure to stop along the way to see the Flower Clock, a time-keeping work of landscaping in the Jardin Anglais. End up at Bain Bleu Hammam and Spa, a new Turkish-style bathhouse that opened last year 2.4 kilometres from downtown along the shore. It offers sleek facilities with steam rooms and many pools. Don't miss the rooftop bath overlooking Lake Geneva and be sure to get instructions from the staff about the multi-step process for making the most of the hammam. Opens at 9am; 42 francs a person.

12.30pm | Sunday sampler

Plainpalais is the city's biggest outdoor farmers' market, where you can find everything from meats to soaps. A few standouts are Leonhard Bretzel for poppy bread, Au Poulet Doré for rotisserie chicken with potatoes and vegetables, the canelé stand (for those small Bordeaux cakes with a tender custard centre), and the Lebanese Guys for Middle Eastern food. Then find space at one of the communal tables and enjoy your last tastes – and sights – of Geneva.

Lodgings

The elegant and pricey Mandarin Oriental Geneva is in the charming and quiet Saint Gervais neighbourhood on the right bank of the River Rhône. It offers luxurious rooms, impeccable service and three restaurants, including the top-notch contemporary Indian establishment Rasoi by Vineet Bhatia. Doubles from 495 Swiss francs ($650). Address: Quai Turrettini 1; tel: +41 (22) 909 0000; email: mogva-reservations@mohg.com

The slightly less expensive Fraser Suites Geneva is downtown in the city centre and offers business-style spacious suites, with living rooms that close off from the bedroom and great urban views. There's no bar or restaurant, but rooms do have kitchenettes. From roughly 200 francs ($263). Address: Rue de la Rôtisserie 3-5; tel: +41 22 525 9888; email: reservations.geneva@frasershospitality.com