By Adam Liaw
Food from the Philippines is a mystery to many of us. Filipinos are fanatical about it and those who've visited also rave, but unless you've been properly introduced it can be a tough nut to crack.
I recently returned from a couple of weeks exploring food in the Philippines and I can tell you, it's worth getting to know. It's delicious, but also fast and easy to make and affordable – simple, home-cooked dishes that are small on effort but extra large on flavour.
Bicol Express Credit: William Meppem
Part of the problem is that there's a lot to take in. The Philippines is a country of 100 million people and 7000 islands, and there are hundreds of regional cuisines that blend influences from China, southeast Asia, Spain and the Americas with local flair.
The difficult thing about understanding Philippine food is knowing where to start. But once you test the waters with such classic dishes as adobo, chicken afritada and this Bicol Express, you just might not be able to stop.
Cucumber Achara.Credit: William Meppem
BICOL EXPRESS
Serves 4
This spicy pork and chilli stew originated in Manila in the 1960s but was named after the train that runs from Manila to the region of Bicol, which is famous for its spicy cuisine.
• 2 tsp vegetable oil
• 1kg pork belly, skin-on, cut into 2cm square pieces
• 1 medium brown onion, finely minced
• 6 cloves garlic, finely minced
• 2 tbsp shrimp paste or ¼ cup fish sauce
• 400ml coconut milk
• 400ml chicken stock or water
• 5 large red chillies, cut on the diagonal into 1cm lengths
• 5 large green chillies, cut on the diagonal into 1cm lengths
• coriander leaves, to serve
• steamed rice, to serve
• cucumber achara, to serve
Heat the oil in a large saucepan and fry the pork belly until lightly browned. Add the onion and garlic and continue to fry until the onion is softened. Add the shrimp paste or fish sauce, coconut milk and stock or water. Simmer covered for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, then add the chillies (reserving a few slices for garnish) and simmer for a further 15-20 minutes, until the pork and chillies are tender. Season with salt or extra fish sauce to taste, scatter a few coriander leaves on top, and serve with steamed rice and cucumber achara.
CUCUMBER ACHARA
Serves 4
These simple and fresh pickled vegetables are usually made with green papaya in the Philippines, but cucumber is a great substitute. Start this recipe the night before you plan to eat it.
• 2 continental cucumbers, peeled, deseeded and julienned
• 1 small carrot, peeled and julienned
• 1 small red capsicum, peeled and julienned
• 2 tbsp salt
• 4cm ginger, peeled and julienned
• 2 eschallots, finely sliced
• 1 cup white vinegar
• 80g sugar
Toss the cucumber, carrot and capsicum with the salt and place in a sieve. Allow to drain for 15 minutes. Rinse well under running water and drain again. Toss with the ginger and eschallots and place in a plastic container. In a small non-reactive saucepan, bring the vinegar, sugar and 1 cup of water to a simmer, then pour over the vegetable mixture. Allow to cool to room temperature and then refrigerate overnight before serving
Adam's tip The key to good food in the Philippines is balance. When these two dishes are served together, the creamy, savoury spiciness of the Bicol Express is offset by the sweet and sour pickles. Check seasoning to make sure everything is working together.