By Fiona Capp
Bursting Bubbles
Robert Walters
Bursting Bubbles, by Robert Walters.
Bibendum Wine Co, $39.95
We have all been sold a pup, albeit a glossy-looking, expensive one. Most champagnes, even those made by the prestigious brands, are confections that have little to do with terroir (the natural environment of the grape) or the qualities that distinguish good wine. Big manufacturers discovered that wines of inferior quality could, when sweetened and sparkled, be sold to the wealthy as a prestige product. Out of this naked commercial opportunism came what Robert Walters calls, in this refreshingly iconoclastic book, "the world's first mass-market party drug". Fortunately for those of us who love fizz in our wine, a small and growing number of winemakers in Champagne are now drawing on the skills and knowledge that had been lost to the region to make "exceptional wines that just happen to have bubbles".