Can English fizz compete with Champagne? A glorious road trip around the South Down's vineyards reveals that it certainly can  

  • Terroir of Hampshire is similar to Champagne, so the same grapes can be grown
  • It's possible to tour several vineyards in one day with food and wine tastings
  • Worth a visit, Hambledon is Britain's oldest winery dating back to 1954

I could have been in the south of France...

Rolling hills stretched as far as the eye could see and neat rows of vines stood tall in the sun.

The setting was in fact the South Downs, now home to England’s burgeoning sparkling wine industry which is pushing to knock Champagne off its traditional perch.

Hambledon – which saw its Premiere Cuvee crowned best UK and International Sparkling Wine at awards in Italy last year

Fans of the top-rated home-grown bubbly can now go on a road trip to see the vineyards where it is made, most of which welcome visitors.

Tasting is part of the fun – although if you’re the unlucky one to be driving, make sure you use the spittoon!

One winery will even let you have a go at making a personalised bottle to take home.

There are plenty of country house hotels to stay at en route, which would rival French chateaux for luxury, as well as quirky and historic pubs for a bite to eat.

First stop on our itinerary was Hattingley Valley, near Basingstoke – a vineyard which was only established in 2008 after the landowner recognised the potential of its well-drained chalk hillsides.

In addition to tasting wine, Winchester’s five-star Lainston House hotel offers guests the chance to brush up on their culinary skills

Five varieties of grape are now grown over 10 hectares - almost 25 acres.

Host Jacob Leadley, a former City worker turned Hattingley Valley’s winemaker, made the potentially dry subject of the wine production process very engaging.

‘Lots of people go to France and like to visit the wineries but they don’t realise they can do the same thing on their doorstep without leaving the country,’ he said.

Although a quiet time on my visit, the site was preparing to become a hive of activity during the October harvest.

The giant French-made grape press, identical to those in Champagne, and futuristic-looking storage tanks which resembled props out of Dr Who were being made ready.

Bottling takes place in January and the wine, implanted with yeast, then spends at least 18 months maturing, bottles stored on their side, or ‘on the lees’.

The winery - housed in what were once chicken sheds and farm outbuildings – also has a dedicated tasting room for visitors.

Audleys Wood Hotel, near Basingstoke, another luxuriously-converted former manor house with a stunning dark wood-panelled interior in the lounge and bar

Seated around a large wooden table beneath exposed beams, there was a chance to taste the differences across the vineyard’s range of fizz.

Hattingley Valley makes four main products. The classic Cuvee has toasty notes, while Blanc de Blancs is made of pure Chardonnay grapes and has more fruity characteristics.

Meanwhile, the Rose has an elegantly subtle pale pink colour, vibrant bubbles and a gentle raspberry flavour, and top-of-the-range King’s Cuvee tastes of soft fruits and delicate oak spiciness.

Despite the relatively short history of the winery – its first release was only in 2013 – taking pride of place in the tasting room are a clutch of honours from the likes of the International Wine and Spirit Challenge and the Sommelier Wine Awards.

Describing the tours offered, Jacob said: ‘We usually accommodate a minimum of seven people, who are given a look around the vineyard and winery, then a tasting. Dinner or lunch at the local pub can also be arranged.’

However, we were on the road again for lunch at the Green Man Inn, in Winchester, a half-hour drive away and a city worthy of a day to explore. 

MAKING YOUR OWN CHAMPAGNE 

A key part of the Champagne-making process which is now used by English sparkling wine producers dictates the sweetness of the end product.

And visitors to Hambledon vineyard can have a go themselves at creating a bubbly to suit their own tastebuds.

It all happens during ‘disgorging’, the final stage sparkling wines go through after 18 months to five years maturing in bottles on their sides.

They are gradually turned upright, then deposits of yeast used in fermentation are removed in a rapid process.

The bottles are then topped up with an extra amount of the same wine, plus a ‘dosage’ – pronounced with French accent - of added sugar, before corks are pushed into place.

The dosage determines the type of sparkling wine – ranging from Brut Nature, which has no added sugar, through Brut then Extra Sec, Sec, Demi-Sec and Doux, at the opposite end of the spectrum.

On a bespoke tour of Hambledon, visitors can have a go at the disgorging process and choose their own sugar dosage for a personalised bottle to take away as a souvenir.

Hambledon’s Philip Kellett said: ‘Various Champagnois (Champagne makers) use different sugar levels – if you want your wine to be fresh and elegant you will add less sugar, whereas you would put more in if you prefer it less dry.’

Travelling to Hambledon across the hills involved a trip along meandering country roads, which resembled leafy tunnels.

The winery is Britain’s oldest commercial vineyard, having been planted in 1954 with the help of Pol Roger, and occupies hillsides across a valley from the sports ground where the modern game of cricket was founded.

Not only are French techniques and machinery in use at Hambledon… the winery also has Gallic expertise, with two of its senior staff having crossed the Channel.

Winemaker Didier Pieson joined with Yorkshire-born Philip Kellett to give an Anglo-French presentation.

Pointing to a geological map on the wall, Didier, a consultant to two Champagne houses as well as working at Hambledon, said: ‘The chalk of Hampshire is similar to that in Champagne, allowing English sparkling wine to be made of equal quality.

‘Everything is done in traditional style and we only pick the grapes by hand.’

It’s a tough task given the size of the vineyard, and one which requires up to 100 seasonal workers to help with the harvest.

Hambledon has seen a growing interest from wine buffs keen on paying a visit as interest in English fizz has burgeoned. 

Three years ago, the site had the royal seal of approval when it was visited by Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall, to open its current tasting room.

Tours must be booked in advance – and the vineyard offers more in-depth sessions and tailored events for small groups.

Hattingley Valley and Hambledon – which saw its Premiere Cuvee crowned best UK and International Sparkling Wine at awards in Italy last year - are just two of many vineyards producing English sparkling wine which are open for visitors, across Hampshire, Sussex and Kent.

Hambledon is Britain’s oldest commercial vineyard, having been planted in 1954

Driving around the area is easy and scenic, with roads relatively light in terms of traffic, away from the main towns.

In addition to tasting wine, Winchester’s five-star Lainston House hotel offers guests the chance to brush up on their culinary skills.

The hotel’s ‘Season’ cookery school has professional tuition to create all types of dishes, and can accommodate up to 12 people at once.

It has hosted demonstrations from Masterchef winner Stephen Edwards and Great British Bake Off contestant Beca Lyne-Pirkis.

The 50-bedroom country manor, just to the west of the city, partly dates back to the late 17th century.

The hotel takes comfort to a very high level – even having flat screen televisions set in the wall at the end of the bath - while many of its historical aspects have been retained.

A little surprise is in store for visitors to the wood-panelled restaurant, in the form of the chef making extra ‘amuse bouche’ delights between courses.

Our previous night had been spent at Audleys Wood Hotel, near Basingstoke, another luxuriously-converted former manor house with a stunning dark wood-panelled interior in the lounge and bar.

The wine list was plentiful, with staff happy to fill you in with more details of flavours and suitability for different dishes before you made your choice.

My Hampshire experience was rounded off with a return to Winchester to spend some time in the city itself, exploring its medieval centre.

Highlights of the famous cathedral, which is almost 1,000 years old, include the grave and memorial to Jane Austen, as well as the burial places of ancient Saxon and Norman kings. 

Special events are coming up marking the 200th anniversary of Austen’s death, including guided tours taking in her grave and a nearby house where she once stayed. 

Now there's an English icon's history you won't discover in Champagne!

TRAVEL FACTS

A comprehensive list of vineyards open for tours, and their contact details, can be found via trade body English Wine Producers.

Hambledon and Hattingley Valley’s website provides full information about tours, events and opening times.

Tourist body Visit Hampshire has information about where to stay and a full list of local attractions.

For information about Audleys Wood Hotel visit the website.

A stay costs £99 per night room with breakfast for two. Offers are available including special two-night or weekend deals for two with 15 per cent off normal prices.

Lainston House, which bills itself as a ‘place of serenity away from the hectic pace of the British metropolis’, is run by a small chain, Exclusive Hotels. Visit the website for more information.

 

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