The Crater Highlands, north of Ngorongoro Crater and west of the Rift Valley in Northern Tanzania.

Everything you need to know about going on safari

It's 1992 and I'm drinking my first ever gin and tonic in the courtyard of Nairobi's historic Norfolk Hotel. It's only right that I should order a drink unfamiliar to me yet favoured by Kenya's notorious Happy Valley set – British colonials said to have lived a life of indulgence in this African paradise in the 1940s.

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